Ignition problems
ok coils are hooked up the right way now and i chased the wires they are correct as well. The coils are dead they should have 670 to 790 ohms and leading has .9 ohms and trailing has 1.1 ohms so off to the parts store.
Hold on a bit... Where did you find the 670-690 Ohm numbers? Those are not correct. The pickup coil in in distributor is supposed to be 650 Ohm +/- 50Ohm (at 20 *C). Maybe that is what you are looking at??
The ignition coils are supposed to be 1.35Ohms +/- 10%. Yours sound maybe a bit off, but they may be fine. The problem is that most DMMs (Digital Multimeters) are not so accurate at these small resistances.
The BW wire should go to the + post of each coil. This BW wire also eventually splits and connects to the B terminals on the ignitiors. Each C terminal (on ignitor) connects to the corresponding coil (-) terminal. Leading ignitor is closest to radiator, the trailing is near the alternator.
The main thing is that it sounds like you are not getting power. You can find another switched 12v source to go to the coil + terminals (and to the ignitors too). I don't know details of the install, but the '80 had ignitors separate for the distributor (stock). Did you use a harness from the new engine to connect to ignitors to the coils? Anyways...get power to your coils first before you start replacing all of the parts.
The ignition coils are supposed to be 1.35Ohms +/- 10%. Yours sound maybe a bit off, but they may be fine. The problem is that most DMMs (Digital Multimeters) are not so accurate at these small resistances.
The BW wire should go to the + post of each coil. This BW wire also eventually splits and connects to the B terminals on the ignitiors. Each C terminal (on ignitor) connects to the corresponding coil (-) terminal. Leading ignitor is closest to radiator, the trailing is near the alternator.
The main thing is that it sounds like you are not getting power. You can find another switched 12v source to go to the coil + terminals (and to the ignitors too). I don't know details of the install, but the '80 had ignitors separate for the distributor (stock). Did you use a harness from the new engine to connect to ignitors to the coils? Anyways...get power to your coils first before you start replacing all of the parts.
i got the # out of the Chilton manual. There are is a black wire with a white strip that comes out of the main wire grouping below the driver strut tower. i had put the yellow connector on it to keep it from grounding out it is a 12 volt. The black and white wires are connected to the positive side of the coils and the yellow and green wires are on the negative. I have a pic of the wire on the first page. the wiring in the engine bay looks to be the same as an 81 but the vin is sa. i don't know all the ditals about the car do to i bought it in December it never had a problem with spark till i had to pull the engine.
Use the FSM for numbers... Here is the section that you need:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/19...Electrical.pdf
The pics are blocked on this computer, so I cannot see what you have setup. I will check at home at either luchtime or this evening. I can guarantee you that the 650 Ohm number is wrong. The 1.35 Ohm number is correct, but anything around 1 Ohm should be good.
The rest of the FSMs and wiring diagrams can be found here:
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/19...Electrical.pdf
The pics are blocked on this computer, so I cannot see what you have setup. I will check at home at either luchtime or this evening. I can guarantee you that the 650 Ohm number is wrong. The 1.35 Ohm number is correct, but anything around 1 Ohm should be good.
The rest of the FSMs and wiring diagrams can be found here:
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual
That is the way it all looks and the pick up are at 615 ohms on mine. I think i will have to dig in to the wire loom at the bottom on the strut tower and see if there are any breaks there or some thing. the black and white wire that is out of the loom has 12volts when the ignition switch is on.
Last edited by zenn; Mar 11, 2008 at 11:11 AM.
Ok well I found a short in the wire loom and found out that the black wire I had been asking about was connected to the power wires for the coils. I now have power at the coils but when I pull the leading wire I still get no spark with the gm igniter’s in. The leading coil with a Fluke meter is 1.4, the trailing coil is .8 the leading pick up is .650 and the trailing pick up is .627. Any suggestion if any one is in Houston and can help I would be very thankful. As always if yall need pics or audio for what is going on tell me and I will get it up. Thanks
Yes the wires are all the same are the same all the way threw. The pick ups are in the tolerance levels 650 +/- 20% is the tolerance range and the coils leading is 1.4 and the trailing coil is .8 the tolerance range is 1.3 +/- 10%. I know the training will need replacing but it should not keep the leading coil from firing.
Ha she runs again. It was leading and trailing igniter, ignition coils, and the power wire short that cooked it all. It started up i need to do some tunning but she runs.
The ignition coils tested good but under a loan they did not work.
thank you gsl-se addict and yetterben.
The ignition coils tested good but under a loan they did not work.
thank you gsl-se addict and yetterben.
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ncds_fc
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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