houston93rx7

i drive my 81 everyday to work....never fail me yet in 20 years

furai

Okay i tested the starter and yes it was very responsive. When everything is connected and I turn the key all i get is a clicking sound. Im thinking its either the ignition connection or a bad positive battery cable I really appreciate all your alls help and Im learning a lot about auto electric systems. But anymore help on this would be very much appreciated.

furai

Oh I was lookin around the site and found someone with an FD that was having his starter CLICK CLICK CLICK everytime he tried to start it he said that it was the ignition switch and that he took it apart and polished the copper plates that were in there and that fixed it. Do you think that would fix my problem?

TheRX7Project

iTrader: (3)

Possibility. It's definately something between your battery post and starter.

Kentetsu

I'm normally pretty patient with the new guys, but Good God man!!! You've already been given good advice, but have yet to follow it! What the hell are you doing looking for more advice from another section when you haven't even bothered to listen to ours?

Replace your damn battery cables already!! If your starter is clicking, then that means it is getting the signal from the ignition switch but is not getting enough juice from the battery to engage the starter. If you were sitting next to me right now, I'd probably smack you upside the head.



Now, to address the off-topic discussion: If cared for properly (just like any other car), the RX7 can be a very reliable daily driver. The only thing that would make it questionable would be the age, but you'd get that with any other older car too. 7s are no worse.

My car has well over 200K miles on her, and I regularly drive hundreds of miles for three days of racing, then drive her all the way back home again. She has never left me on the side of the road yet (knock on wood).

Take good care of your ****, and your **** will take good care of you. Simple.

bliffle

It's easy to diagnose a bad battery lead. Just take your multimeter, set the 20v. range, attach the black lead to a good body ground (like exposed screw threads) and put the other onto the exposed screw threads of the starter where the black battery lead comes down from the engine compartment. Should read 12v. When you turn the key to the 1st position it should still read 12v. Maybe it'll drop a fraction of a volt. When you turn the key further to the 'start' position it'll drop maybe a volt, but not several volts.

Testing the key voltage that goes to the solenoid coil is a little harder. From under the car lift the spade lug that goes into the solenoid and attach the red alligator clip to it. When you turn the key to 'start' it should read 12v. As you would expect.

To test if the solenoid is shorting out you've gotta fabricate a little wire that has a male spade lug at one end and female spade lug at the other end. Maybe a foot long. When you're crimping one of those connectors you attach a second wire a couple feet long that you can attach the red alligator clip to. Then you put the new spade lug into the solenoid and the other new spade lug into the wire that you pulled out of the solenoid. When you turn the key to 'start' the voltmeter should still read 12v.

Most likely you have a bad solenoid from what you've reported.

furai

Kentetsu, I really appreciate all your advice and I have my father, who thinks he is always right and has never worked on RX-7's telling me one thing, and you guys telling me another. Im sorry if it seems like I am saying someone do this for me which is not at all what I am asking. I just have no clue about car electronics and dont want to screw things up.
Jason

bliffle

How did you test the starter?

What does 'responsive' mean?

Does it click once? Does it click several times, like a stutter?

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

i've been in that possition, and trust me it hurts like a bitch, but who will you trust more? these guys who have lots of experience with rotaries or your dad?, yeah, i thought so.

furai

I tested the starter exactly as you told me to and i tested it the way they bench test it at the store only i held the starter down with my foot to keep it from moving. The solinoid moved the gear and the motor whirrred.

Kentetsu

Sorry I snapped at you man, just having a bad day. New battery cables will cost about 20.00 if I remember right. Just get a generic type that is the right length rather than going to the dealership or something. Good luck...

bliffle

Did you clean off the IDs of the cable clamps and the ODs of the battery posts?

Do you have a voltmeter or multimeter with wire leads?

furai

Cleaned everything and replaced the battery cables and starter, fired right up no hesitation. I want to thank you all for your help and advice Ill be sure to go on here again for help and any update to my rex.

Jason

pickinpough

I have a different problem with my car. I thought it was the fuel pump. I tested it and the psi was between one and two, the volume test was good., but I would raise the rpm up with my hand and watch the fuel flow into the engine. the jet stream was not consistant and after a few minutes the fuel stream slowed or stopped and the car rpm fell off sometimes it would die. Turn on the key and let the fuel pump run and repeat the same condition. I changed the fuel pump and still have the same problem. I was looking for the fuel check valve and found it by the gas tank while the car was idling. After I unbolted it and move it around the idle stumbled and the car died. I took it off, air will pass in both directions, I put it back on and started the fuel pump, with the gage hooked up I had no fuel pressure. I went to the valve and tapped it, then had fuel pressure. I bypassed the check valve and still not change. It actually seemed worse. Fuel psi on the new pump is 2-3 pounds, book says 3-4. I do suspect the carb or a fuel cut off sylinoid if there is one. I rebuilt the carb several years ago and its be fine. I do notice that with the fuel pump running engine stopped fuel runs through the needle and seats into the engine sometimes and not very often. since I changed the fuel pump I have not noticed this. The pump I put in is rated at 1146 cfm @ 4-5 psi. What the car is doing is when you start out its fine for the first couple of gears then it started to cutout and looses power like the fuel is shut off or a igniter is shut off. The car has ran excellent for many years until now. If you shut off the key then turn it on momentarily letting the fuel pump run, it will start up then repeat the same condition only it will not go as far. My wife said it was running fine then lost power, she pulled over and it died. She started it up and it ran fine for another 100 miles then it would lurch and lost power. I am to the carb with the fuel and I have used a timing light on each wire and determined there is spark to each plug. I have not do this when the condition exsist. Not sure how to test the ingniters since if they are bad they must have to be hot before they short out or open up, so if I test them they will most likely test good. Can anybody help?