I cannot get my 84 to idle below 1000 rpm. I rebuilt the nikki, changed one vacuum advance module, installed block-off plates, installed a new flutter valve, replaced all bad vacuum hoses, new fuel filter, oil change.

If idle is at say, 1200 and you turn on the blower to high or the headlights to bright, the idle drops below 1000 and then dies. There is plenty of power. I can smoke the tires and wind it out just beautifully.

I have altered the timing to no avail.

HELP!!

 

when you figure it out please pm me. have same problem

 

i too have the EXACT same problem, but i haven't blocked off my acv yet. hopefully when i do that my problem should clear. check your return spring search for vaccum leaks is all i can think of. good luck, and definitely let us know if you fix it. as will i when i block my junk off!

 

shutter valve

 

How do you get shutter valve from an electrical issue? If your blower motor/headlights tax the motor like that, your problem is electrical. Grab a wiring diagram from www.iluvmyrx7.com and start checking for bad connections, grounds, etc.

 

just a thought

 

The problem is not electrical as far as the engine not idling when accessories are turned on. The extra load on the alternator seems to be enough to drop the idle below 1000 where it will not idle. I can idle it at 2000 and then when the alternator or A/C loads the engine, it will idle at around 1400.

Thanks for the input so far. I wish someone could point my in a direction.

I am stumped.

 

With enigine at about 1400 rpm, I can remove wires from the dist. cap one at a time and the only wires that seem to make any difference in rpm are LL and the center coil wire. I can remove any of the others and the is no real difference in rpm.

I will proceed to check wire resistance and spark plugs.

Oh, by the way, there is fire from the other coil and each other wire also has fire ait the cap.

 

Have you checked or replaced your anti-afterburn hose? A bad anti-afterburn hose will result in exactly the problem you are having.

 

I am not positive what an anti-afterburn hose is but, the big hole on the passenger side of the intake is blocked off with a plate and the small hole at the rear of the intake going to the CC is blocked with a plate.

 

I have tested the plug wire resistance and all are within acceptable limits. The spark plugs however do not look as if they are burning the same. The top front plug looks good. Nice and clean and a whitish insulator around the center electrode. The other three are all black and sooty lookin'. I am going after some plugs now. Be back later.

 

The new plugs made no difference.

I am out of ideas.

Still need help.

 

Maybe I need to see a rotary expert. Are there any around?