cmanns

I don't know how many miles on the filter, plugs such. The oil is due in about a few hundred miles, I'll change that and fix the omp soon but what about the others?

No matter how much premix I add it never smokes unless on start up, same with seafoam n the tank 2 cans w/the gas light on never does any smoke oddly, but could the filter block premix?

Anyways I notice some little hesitation randomly the idles pretty smooth but chokes up randomly, and the vac lines look decent so I'd assume it's the plugs?

Oh and do the air filters really matter if their dirty? I haven't seen one at the store when I run by appears their 15 bucks, mines dirty looking - worth it to change?

I wanna get alil better gas millage/performance, I notice the performance changes Also would it be a good idea to clean the connections at the coils n such I noticed the rpm changes to the power load much more than my fc did

rotarycrazy

iTrader: (8)

put the money under your matress for a rainy day since banks are no longer safe.

cmanns

I don't put money in banks after "Bank of America" stole from me twice a few years ago.



Oh and wtf should I do about a rough shifter, goes into gear n such everytime fine but it's jerky and hard to shift fast (Then again I'm new to manual) I can't really change it at my house or add that tranny lube that was suggested, what kinda places do tranny work?

Edit- Looks like that local oil can henrys does transmissions, they do work pretty cheaply and helped tighten my old fc exhaust

What tranny fluid would you guys suggest for a box with 90k miles

speedracer_not

spinner rims and rear wing

cmanns

no thanks, already got enki's and i dont want a spoiler

boyee

iTrader: (3)

75w-90 redline or royal purple have gotten good results

AcidAngel7477

iTrader: (16)

tune up..

:AA:

cmanns

^Tune up has already been partly done by old owner, it was oil changed and such great, I just am too lazy to time-line all the replacements and i dont see plugs or filter replacement, seems the filter was done 2yrs ago or a yr ago i forget what the paper said

I'm probably going to go buy new plugs & air filter, not sure if I wanna do the fuel filter today (herd its kinda a pita to get too and I can't jack my car up at home)

I may stop by oil can's but i bet they'll want a good 70 bucks for tranny fluid, I'd prefer to do it with my friend

Crazyk82

iTrader: (7)

Your air filter should be checked every oil change and changed about every two and id say new plugs around every 10-15k miles.

Edit: for the royal purple. Its damn good ****.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Go down this checklist. Did the previous owner tell you he did that before he sold you the car? Well do it again.

[ ] Oil
[ ] Filter
[ ] Plugs
[ ] Plug Wires
[ ] Rotor and Cap
[ ] Thermostat (Mazda only)
[ ] Air Filter
[ ] Trans fluid
[ ] Rear End Fluid (remove top bolt first)


Check these places for leaks:

[ ] Oil Pan/Bolt
[ ] Oil Cooler Hoses
[ ] Oil Cooler
[ ] Passenger Side Carpet
[ ] Rotor housing/Intake manifold Mating Surface (coolant pooling up?)
[ ] Transmission
[ ] Rear End
[ ] Fuel cap

FbDrift

fixed^

cmanns

I'll get the tranny and rear-end fluid changed tomorrow since a cruise is coming up.

Does the air filter make that much diff? I'm bout to go find the part # and try to get one tonight and see how it is, 60% (height) of mine is pitch black almost lol, so I flipped it over...

The rotor & cap look decent, I plan to switch to 2GDFIS or however it's spelled just gotta get the leading coil, then I'll look into changing them if they need it.

Sgt Fox

iTrader: (3)

Bahahahaha!

Kentetsu

If the engine can't breathe........ change the damn air filter already. lol

For the tranny, I like to use a 50/50 mix of 90wt gear oil/auto tranny fluid. Works great to clean things up and improve shifting.

Spend the rest of your time cleaning under the hood. Seriously. Make it immaculate under the hood, and you will find/fix all sorts of little pains in the **** along the way. Makes life much simpler in the long run....


Oh, and instead of sending all of your money to fbdrift, send it to Billy at Respeed. At least you'll get something in return that way.



.

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

spend the money on suspension bits man... you'll love how much more traction you'll get!

of course, you should do maintenance too, but to change the fluids... please don't take it to a shop. its like one of the easiest things to do! well if they charge like 10 dollars then its ok

FbDrift

hey now! i would take pictures and send them to him, if he's lucky ill even send him a video of it running!

Landon303

iTrader: (25)

Hose under the oil cooler (if its a 83-85). Then it won't blow on you while driving, and problem avoided!!

cmanns

Anyone got the parts needed to get a FMOC? I hate the beehive and it's in the way

Appears the hose is "new" but where it's clamped on it's leaking on the bottom before the clamp very slightly, isn't that a common thing?

The alternator needs to be replaced, I'm thinking about picking up a taurus alt (I used on my fc) any other suggestions on a slightly higher amp alt that'll maybe bolt right up? The taurus just needs the old pully to be swapped which this shop w/air guns did for me for little to none. Was kinda cool though, they've never done it, didn't want to due to liability but still did and it worked perfect as I thought.

the alts just squealing esp when cold it sounds like, plus it has no power lolol

I got a new air cleaner and fuel filter, the air cleaner made a huge difference - the car started a tad quicker and acceleration is smoother, it's not more power it's just more responsive, seemed to help the low rpms too I can shift at 2.5k smoothly

cmanns

The oil place charged like 35bucks in total for some decent brand of oil, they checked everything

i think, not sure. for oil + coolant flush it was 90 bucks for my fc but i didnt get the flush after all

Yeah I do want suspension bits but I most likely can't put them on myself, I'm planning on autocrossing maybe sunday then I'll get a glimpse of what needs to be changed first suspension wise, the wider wheels + slick tires did improve the grip crazy i'm probably going to bald the tires at the course

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

take an automotive class at a college. you can do almost all of your work, just don't **** off the teachers and make sure that the work you are doing fits into the classwork. best class would be auto fundamentals, then take steering and suspension.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Get that fuel filter on there. They are garbage new, and if a new air filter makes that much of a difference I can just imagine how clogged the fuel filter is. It's not difficult to change. You just clamp the inlet and outlet lines and pull the old one out and stick the new on in. Make sure you put a oil pan underneath to catch and gas that dribbles out. This can be done with the spare tire jack and 10 spare minutes. New plugs/wires/cap/ rotor is a really good idea if you don't know the last time they were changed. Give us a ballpark of how much "a little money" is and we can better suggest where you should spend it. A little extra could be between enough to put a new gas cap on, or revamp the entire suspension. You need to clarify.

A coolant flush is a good idea as well. Pop the rad cap off (when it's cold!!!!!) and look inside. If you see scaley white crap covering all the metal inside, you have calcium buildup and you need to get something to clean it out of there. Go to your local parts shop and ask for something to clean out the cooling system. Put that in there about 12 hours (or whatever the instructions say) before you go get the system flushed. This will help remove all the **** that has built up in the system over the years and it will all come out when they flush the system. The system will then cool much better and you'll have some piece of mind. Replace your rad cap while your at it. They're only about $10.

If your talking more money than all that covers, do as was mentioned before and get all the RE-speed bits you can. Start with poly bushings EVERYWHERE and then go to sway bars, dampers and coilovers. If you can swing it and don't care about what class your in at autcross then get the R&P kit. If you do care then replace your inner and outer tie rods, and the idler arm. Tighten up the steering box, and your car will feel ten times better.

cmanns

Well I got the tranny oil changed, mistake. The shifting is worse now for the most part, it's slightly smoother in some situations but it's pretty shitty now.

Oddly the money I had sorta disappeared I guess after buying the huge thing of premix, full tank, etc I used it all.

Where is the jacks turning thing? I found the jack but I can't find the thing to raise it with

Anyways whats odd is now the rear diff is leaking after they changed the tranny fluid, I'll fix that myself soon

'87 turbo II

iTrader: (1)

um... if they blew your rear transmission seal then your transmission oil would travel down the drive shaft and drip off of the differential making it look like it's leaking. And that would explain why your tranny is worse than ever. This is why I don't go to shops. Hopefully that's not your problem but it sounds like it is. You might need a new transmission seal, and I don't know if that means rebuild or what but good luck.

cmanns

Well I never noticed it leaking badly, this car leaves like 4 different stains in the road after parked lol, and I've noticed one in the rear before I got the fluid changed.

cmanns

Damn the new fuel filter is tiny as hell, it's clear though so you can see it in action

now to find a screw driver lol