i found the triangle!!!!
so... i fixed the passenger side... and it still pulls (just as hard) to the left
i made the passenger side point to the middle of the bumper... (opposite of the driver's)
i made the passenger side point to the middle of the bumper... (opposite of the driver's)
FB+FC=F-ME
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,353
Likes: 5
From: Rohnert Park CA
The arrows are for minor changes in the camber and caster settings.If your suspension isnt worn or tweeked,then rotating the arrows will only move your camber/caster settings within allowable tolerances.Its just knda for fine tuning if for some reason you fall out of spec.However,due to the crude design you cannot adjust for one,without affecting the other.Its not the greatest setup,but thankfully,with a stock car Macpherson strut front suspensions usually stay in spec unless you wreck.Caster affects straight line stability/steering feel and camber affects grip when cornering, and can greatly affect tire wear if the toe is incorrect.
Typically,a hard pull is caused by toe alignment,bad ball joint,bad wheel bearings,sticky calipers,bad tires,ect.Although having the camber or caster out of spec can exacerbate the problem.Toe is also the most likely to be out of adjustment because there are MANY steering/suspension items that wear and affect the toe settings,not to mention curb shots and potholes.
An alignment is cheap and many shops are "no charge" if you spec out OK.Check all the above stuff first,then consider a frontend alignment.If you arent in spec and you missed something that needs replacing,the shop should spot it for you.They wont typically adjust the alignment until after the worn part is fixed and most shops will only adjust toe-in on our cars due to the crappy/limited design of the camber/caster adjustment.
Typically,a hard pull is caused by toe alignment,bad ball joint,bad wheel bearings,sticky calipers,bad tires,ect.Although having the camber or caster out of spec can exacerbate the problem.Toe is also the most likely to be out of adjustment because there are MANY steering/suspension items that wear and affect the toe settings,not to mention curb shots and potholes.
An alignment is cheap and many shops are "no charge" if you spec out OK.Check all the above stuff first,then consider a frontend alignment.If you arent in spec and you missed something that needs replacing,the shop should spot it for you.They wont typically adjust the alignment until after the worn part is fixed and most shops will only adjust toe-in on our cars due to the crappy/limited design of the camber/caster adjustment.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: Delhi, CA
alignment
Any time you change the position of the strut tops it will affect the toe settings.
I suggest you set the strut tops to the factory position (to the outside-rear)and then check and adjust the toe as needed. (or have a shop do an alignment)
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/48938/
http://www.allpar.com/fix/alignment.html
Dennis
I suggest you set the strut tops to the factory position (to the outside-rear)and then check and adjust the toe as needed. (or have a shop do an alignment)
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/48938/
http://www.allpar.com/fix/alignment.html
Dennis
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