mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

wow..i guess i missed that. i've been working 12+ hours a day for the last 7 days..maybe that'll cloud my vision..thanks for the heads up

rx-7ames

iTrader: (1)

Thanks anyway Dave. I appreciate any ideas that are getting thrown out there. Someone else with a similar problem could use that advice for themselves. Hopefully I can work a little less and get some of these tests done to find the problem. It is killing me not being able to drive my 7.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Don't take the exhaust apart, if it is too restrictive an observer can stand at the side of the road and hear it hiss as you try to accelerate. Check fuel filter, screen as mentioned, vac hoses, etc. These are all free diy checks.......swap coils perhaps too.

rx-7ames

iTrader: (1)

The coils are new, as is the fuel filter. What about the screen though. Can I just take that off and check it by looking? Is it right before the pump?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the screen i believe you are referring to is the pickup screen. the tank must be dropped, which is very easy to do and you will need to remove the pickup/return lines from the top of the tank. attatched to that is a filter with a very fine mesh screen. available new from the dealer. i just ordered one for my car and i have the part numebr handy if yours is bad. no aftermarket oe replacement available..

mjm4jc

The fuel screen is in the tank, and you have to drop the tank to get it out. Some guys here on the forum had problems with this. My SE was parked in 1995 and sat outside in the elements for almost three years and then sat another 10 years in my garage before I started to get her back on the road last year. I never even drained the fuel all that time it sat. When I dropped the tank last year, it looked brand new inside, and the screen looked brand new too. If you have a new fuel filter, the best way to tell if there is any restriction due to the fuel sock is to do a fuel volume test IMO. GSL-SE ADDICT may have to add to this because he knows the amount of fuel per minute. Off the top of my head, I believe that you should get 2 litres (one-half gallon approx) of fuel per minute with the key on and engine not running of course.

Mike

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the fuel pump will not turn on until the engine is being cranked. to test the fuel pressure, you will need have the key in the on position and jump the connector in the engine bay. i may also suggest removing and inspecting your injectors. its easy enough to send them out and have them cleaned and pressre tested. i do this to every EGI 7 i buy. i use a company called witchhunter performance and they can be found here: www.witchhunter.com

mjm4jc

Yeah, I forgot to mention that the connector needs to be junmped. It's that connector with a fairly large rubber boot that is near the AFM/air cleaner box.

Mazdaverx713B----what do you think about KG parts for cleaning/testing?

Mike

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

not sure..never used KG parts..not sure what it is..that or i use them and we call them two different things..

mjm4jc

Yeah, I found the company through the forum here. They offer a special price for forum members. I sent my SE injectors to them and they came back real nice. It came with a flow-chart and all that stuff. The surprising thing about it all is that it was only like 20 bucks including shipping. I also learned from the chart that both my injectors are perfectly matched. I guess I got lucky when they installed my injectors at the factory back in 84 :-)

MM

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Well the compression should not be the issue. He as only put 1k miles on the car since buying it from me.
And those numbers are probably when it was cold and the car recently was flooded real bad.
I told him to do the MMO treatment and well that is where we are now.


Crit, give him some details on the fuel pressure testing if you have those. I cant remember off the top of my head and my FSM is packed up still.
Man, I miss this car. I The only dependable rx7 I had.


The car has 704 and 705 cc injectors. Stock rebuilt gslse 680's from rc.
Car has a full old school dual long primaries, no emissions at all, and maybe 3 vacuum lines.

Check for pressure at tail pipe. The only thing I had to change when you got it was the new muffler that was welded on. If low pressure at tail pipe unbolt the muffler at the flange and see.
chad

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Doc,
he did upgrade to MSD before the problem. I think he did test it back stock with same outcome.

As for swapping coils........ good idea. One could be bad from the factory.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

sure sounds like ignition to me!

2GSLSE

iTrader: (6)

The fuel strainer I was referring to is located in the inlet of the pump it is shaped like a cone I never knew there was one there untill I was replacing my pump.

rx-7ames

iTrader: (1)

Yes, when the problem started I did switch back to the stock dizzy setup after the problems started and had the same results. As far as a bad coil that would suck. I don't have any extras hanging around. This saturday I'm going to check the voltage at the ECU as well as check fuel pressure under load. I just don't have time to do that during the week right now. I have a little too much on my plate with the army. If those check out then I'll see about finding some extra coils to swap out.

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

those coils I had in there did not have but maybe 10K on them. I hope you did not toss them out, and could use one to check the other with.
Chad

rx-7ames

iTrader: (1)

one of the coils was completely burnt up. The metal plug on the coil wire going to the distributor had actually melted inside the coil and I couldn't even remove it. I threw that one out because it was no good and it was partially melted. The other one is now the coil for the trailing plugs and the leading coils are brand new. despite that burnt up coil the car ran great. You would never have guessed the coil was in the condition it was in. it may have gone out eventually though. I couldn't re-use it though because the coil wire was melted inside it, and some of the plastic was melted off. it was the leading coil too. it always drove fine and never missed. I just wanted to do the msd ignition box because I have heard so much good about it.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Try this experiment and report back.

Unplug the TPS and drive it for a few days.

rx-7ames

iTrader: (1)

Okay, I have been driving it around without the TPS and there aren't any noticeable changes. I also did some more tests today. I checked all the voltages at the ECU as per the FSM. Everything checked out perfectly and all the grounds were good. The only thing that didn't match up was checking the voltage for the valves that were removed with the rats nest. That brings me to my next question.

I checked the fuel pressure while driving down the road. It was consistently at 45 psi. I am confused about one thing though. The FSM says to check the fuel pressure with the fuel pressure control valve unplugged and you should get a reading of 36 psi. Then you plug in the fuel pressure control valve and you should get around 20 something (I don't remember the exact number). Since I don't have the fuel pressure control valve what should my pressure be? I think my pressure might be too high. Does this mean that I might need a fuel pressure regulator?

Chad, if I need a fuel pressure regulator do I need one for a GSL-SE, or an s4?

My last question. Did Royal Purple kill my engine? I have been doing a lot of reading and I thought that Royal Purple would be all right. Racing Beat uses it, and Royal Purple says it is okay. Now I'm starting to wonder though. I changed the oil less than 1,000 miles before this problem started happening.

rx-7ames

iTrader: (1)

I just pulled the upper intake manifold off. I was actually very excited to see that the harness going to the injectors had been cut into before and some of the wires were exposed. I thought that might be causing a short so i taped up all the wires. I pulled the injectors out but I don't really know what to look for. They weren't dirty as far as I can tell. I tried to check the impedance with my multimeter but I couldn't figure it out. I couldn't get a consistent number but it was the same with both of them so I assume I was just doing it wrong. I decided to put everything back together and see if taping up the wires helped but it didn't. After putting everything back together the car ran the same. I'm still in the same position as my above post. Is it possible that too much fuel pressure is causing this problem???

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

If you have a inline spark plug tester or timing light check spark to leading side while the engine is running.

Don't think you have a fuel pressure issue but you still need to check volume. Volume should be 1700 CC per minute.

Would also remove feed hose to fuel filter and make sure flow is good from tank.

Do you have the air control valve still in place? Check for leak around the valve or if you have a block off plate around that.

Checked air ducting that goes from T/Body to AFM and made sure that where it joins at the clamp that it is tight and no leaks there?

Make sure the small hose from the air duct hose to the dynamic chamber is not leaking.

Check AFM per FSM.

While engine running wiggle wires and fuses in engine bay area to see if anything changes.

You stated that this just happened overnight. Did you change anything or work on the car the day before?

rx-7ames

iTrader: (1)

I don't have an inline spark plug tester or a timing light. I have never used one of those anyway.

I'll check the volume. Maybe tomorrow, but i'm a little tired of smelling like gas.

I don't know what the air control valve is. I'm sure Chad would know because this used to be his car. I am really unfamiliar with fuel injection.

The air ducting from the TB to the AFM is okay.

Again, I don't know which small hose is the air duct hose or what the dynamic chamber is but i'll try to find out.

I hadn't done anything to the car the day before. I drove the car to Louisiana where I am stationed from Georgia and it did just fine. It stayed parked for a couple days. I went to visit family in Mississippi over the weekend and when I got back it was like this.

I am almost ready to just drop this car off somewhere. I'm about to go crazy, although I have learned a lot so far from all the tests I have done. Is there anyone out there in West Louisiana that can help? I'm at Fort Polk.

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

If I was going to add a FPR, I would add an aftermarket one.

Not sure on the royal purple..... that motor has never had anything other than castrol 20-50






Doc, that car has no ACV, it has been blocked off.... (Ames, that is between the 5and6th port actuator on the lower intake manifold.)

Doc, he did flood the car real bad just before this. Not sure exactly when but I told him to do the MMO treatment.


Ames,
I really cant see it being fuel pressure too high since I ran that setup for three years -- 15k Miles.
I am really stumped on this. It has to be something soo easy like the battery connection back when you had starting issues.

BTW - post pics of the interior now that you finished the black interior.
Chad

RXnos1200

iTrader: (24)

Try changing the spark plugs.... Looks like you covered everything else. Maybe the plugs are just fouled out now.

rx-7ames

iTrader: (1)

spark plugs have less than 1k miles on them.

Chad, my camera is packed up with all of my stuff from Iraq. It is being shipped back right now. I'm not sure when i'll get it but i'll try to get some pics soon. I did post pics of my seats, steering wheel, and shifter. I was wanting to get some dynamat and new carpet laid in before I put all the interior back together too. I don't know when that will be though with this current problem. I can't justify putting a lot of time and money into cosmetics when I can't even drive the car.

I'm really starting to think about scraping the fuel injection and just going carburated. I feel like I'm at a loss here.