It might be too location-dependent, but some "generic hints to help pass an eTest would likely be useful...I looked a lot on the forum, but mostly got confused, before getting some solid help on the local forum.

Things like
- use gasohol (ethanol/gas mix) JUST for the time of your eTest
- Long warm-up, limit idle time
- vent the Air Pump in post-catty if no dilution check
- Long warm-up, limit idle time
- DON'T disconnect MOP, as default position is "full-open", and bad things happen if they take too long to do the test
- Long warm-up, limit idle time
- adjust engine artificially lean - a little hot for a bit might let you pass...
- Long warm-up, limit idle time
???
- Amsoil/MMO/ATF before going....

 

These are great suggestions and I'd like this thread to turn into a howto on passing the emission test. Does anyone else have any suggestions?

I recommend checking, and replacing if needed, the cap, rotor, wires and plugs. Rotarys need gooooood spark to pass the e-test.

 

Having a good cat and functioning air pump is the most important thing. As mentioned already good plugs, cap etc are important too. Bob, when are you coming back to reinspect your car?

 

Moving somewhere that doesn't test?

 

-O2 sensor (GSL-SE).
-Good working cats (The Bonez high flow cat seems to be a good choice for emission purposes).
-Adjust TPS.
-Clean BAC valve & throttle boddy.

 

Also don't assume that their equipment is properly calibrated. If they tell you that your car failed on a particular test. Have the test repeated on a different machine.

My Dad had repeated problem with a station in Phoenix, AZ. His 1986 Isuzu Trooper II had failed the gas tank pressure test twice. My Dad being the Mr. Wizard type rigged up his own pressure test and verified the results with the factory specifications. When he took it back for the third time he drove into a different lane and it passed.