1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

How much improvement should I see with the break-in?

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Old May 17, 2010 | 02:17 PM
  #26  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Whisper

3. Couldn't find any leaks at manifolds. Mating surfaces are cleaned and prepped, gaskets are new. Shouldn't really be leaking anything.

4. I used a piston compression tester, which I know isn't accurate. With valve depressed: front rotor 70, 70, 80; rear rotor 80, 80, 90. These are approximate, mind you. And with valve released max compression readings: front rotor ~110; rear rotor ~120. That was a while ago, though. Maybe it's different now.
3. just cause its clean and stuff is new doesn't mean it works, but if you've sprayed around with brake cleaner or something, and its ok then its probably ok.

3a. what did you block the ACV off with? the ACV has passages to the exhaust and the intake, so it can leak vacuum/exhaust etc and it can do it without leaking to the outside.

4. your compression looks (and sounds) fine.

have you tried shooting a little brake/carb cleaner right into the intake? if it smooths out its lean. i assume the injectors are original and uncleaned?
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Old May 17, 2010 | 03:12 PM
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I have the standard ACV block-off plate, and I used ACV gasket under the plate, for sealing. I don't think anything leaks between exhaust and intake. This engine doesn't even have the square ports typically used by the ACV. I'm not sure why that is, but that's how it is.

Injectors are original, but I had them cleaned at Carb Conn a few years ago, so they shouldn't be clogged and should flow pretty good. However maybe their electrical is malfunctioning or something, and they misfire. I listened to their clicking, and it sounds consistent... I donno, I think I'll still take them to Witch Hunter and get them tested again, since it's cheap.

I tried propane into the air filter, and honestly I couldn't tell if it did anything at all. Like I literally held a propane bottle over the air filter with some gas flowing, and saw zero effect. Maybe I need to give it more...
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Old May 17, 2010 | 04:38 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Whisper
I have the standard ACV block-off plate, and I used ACV gasket under the plate, for sealing. I don't think anything leaks between exhaust and intake. This engine doesn't even have the square ports typically used by the ACV. I'm not sure why that is, but that's how it is.

Injectors are original, but I had them cleaned at Carb Conn a few years ago, so they shouldn't be clogged and should flow pretty good. However maybe their electrical is malfunctioning or something, and they misfire. I listened to their clicking, and it sounds consistent... I donno, I think I'll still take them to Witch Hunter and get them tested again, since it's cheap.

I tried propane into the air filter, and honestly I couldn't tell if it did anything at all. Like I literally held a propane bottle over the air filter with some gas flowing, and saw zero effect. Maybe I need to give it more...
hmm ive never used pro-pain, but a ~1 second squirt of brake/carb cleaner usually makes a difference.

acv and injectors sound like they should be ok, unless the injectors sat forever while the motor was being built
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Old May 17, 2010 | 04:59 PM
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They sat for maybe 4-5 months, but then again it's not like I put them into a pile of dirt.

Based on the video, what does it look like is happening?
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Old May 17, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #30  
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any chance you may have used the wrong injector seal kit?
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Old May 17, 2010 | 06:18 PM
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I ordered it from Black Dragon, so whatever kit they have for 84-85 is the one I got.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 07:29 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Whisper
They sat for maybe 4-5 months, but then again it's not like I put them into a pile of dirt.

Based on the video, what does it look like is happening?
i think i might have the injectors cleaned. most of the time sitting is fine, but i have seen em stick and and then not spray right after sitting....

seems like something is making the mixture inconsistent.

have you checked the water thermo sensor yet? what it the exhaust like?
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Old May 17, 2010 | 08:19 PM
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I have a new a new water thermosensor... The connector seems to be ok, as well, although getting to the point of being brittle. I have a new connector housing that I'm gonna swap on. It's possible the harness itself has a problem, even though I got spec voltage at the ECU with warmed up engine.

What do you mean about the exhaust? It's smelly, but that's because I have no cat. There might be a hint of fuel in it, but I can't tell.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 10:37 PM
  #34  
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Oy, what's the proper way to check if injectors are spraying consistently? I read somewhere that pulling them out, turning on the fuel pump, and then turning the dizzy by hand should trigger the injectors to fire. I tried that, and they didn't fire, and I can't find that thread where it's explained.
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Old May 22, 2010 | 12:14 AM
  #35  
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What you can do is take out the fuel rail and injector, hold both the injectors tightly with your hands, and position them over a container to collect the fuel. While your doing this, have another person crank over the engine. Then just look right at the fuel spray pattern. If they're dropping fuel as oppose to misting, then cleaning is due, also if you want to make sure they both flow the same, take 2 identical clear bottles, and run the fuel in there for a while and compare volume.
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Old May 22, 2010 | 02:32 AM
  #36  
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If I'm just doing it by myself, I can't really crank the engine AND look at the injectors. I remember something about taking the distributor out and turning it and the trailing igniter triggers the injectors. Is that supposed to work?
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Old May 22, 2010 | 02:37 AM
  #37  
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You need to spin it enough and evenly to observe it properly. You cant just call a friend to help you out for 5 minutes?
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Old May 22, 2010 | 09:20 PM
  #38  
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I could, but my friends don't live very close, so to call them over just to crank the car for a few seconds seems kind of rude. Heh. Maybe when there's something else going on.
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Old May 22, 2010 | 09:51 PM
  #39  
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get one of those remote starter things. you just clip the wires on and you can crank it over while your under the hood.
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Old May 22, 2010 | 09:52 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Whisper
If I'm just doing it by myself, I can't really crank the engine AND look at the injectors.
u can buy a remote starter switch. or make one like i did way back in the 80s and still have to this day.

http://www.google.com/search?q=remot...ient=firefox-a
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Old May 23, 2010 | 01:18 AM
  #41  
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Ah, kewl, thanks.
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Old May 23, 2010 | 02:46 AM
  #42  
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LOL at water bottle scale. this needs to remain a RX-7 secret. don't let the piston lovers know.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 09:08 PM
  #43  
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Update. Well, not really...nothing new to report.

I replaced the engine harness with a good tested one. I got a new distributor. I tested the ignition harness for continuity. I got my injectors cleaned and tested one more time.

No dice. Same thing. Shakes pretty harsh at idle, when revved it smoothes out but does an occasional jerk, just like in the video.

I can't think of anything else to check/fix.

Maybe it's the engine, after all. But what could be wrong.
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 12:38 PM
  #44  
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Is there any chance at all that the wrong balance weights/flywheel got into this motor at reassembly?
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 01:28 PM
  #45  
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I would hope Rob knew what he was doing. Unbalanced assembly would probably vibrate all the time pretty evenly, it wouldn't just randomly jerk and misfire, would it?
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 08:21 PM
  #46  
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Don't know... grasping st straws, here.

An unbalanced assembly will smooth out at certain speeds due to harmonic interactions.
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 08:44 PM
  #47  
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What about blown/cracked seals? Would that cause a shake like that?
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 11:26 PM
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the fuel injectors have been cleaned and refreshed right?
and i wouldnt be so sure on the vaccum leak untill you have used a boost presure tester and bottle soapy water..
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 11:28 PM
  #49  
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i had those two issues on my t2 swap i thought i screwed my rebuild but it was silly error on my part

almost bet those are yourr issues
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 11:06 AM
  #50  
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Yeah, I took my injectors to witch hunter only couple weeks ago, he serviced them but he said they were in pretty decent shape anyway.

Alright, gonna look for a leak or something...
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