What's a trabant?

 

good lord. the oil thing again. if you get a good synthetic oil such as redline it will burn off. not all synthetics will. disabling the omp and running 2 stroke w/ synth in the pan is fine and quite a few do it. the amount getting into the chambers is neglegible. the biggest thing is that, if you are changing oil on the 3k mark and running a good mineral oil, the benefits offered by an expensive synth aren't worth it. as for additives, no clue. the only additive that interests me is lucas. but i'm not sure how it would affect a rotary.

 

It's a ugly Eastern-German car, with a smokey small two-stroke car. Looks bad, drives worse... And you need premix

As for Jeremy's statement: you probable are right, but like you said: the benefits are so little it ain't worth the cost (or trouble).

 

Ive been running premix on my 2nd gen for about 6 months now with no trouble. I still have the OMP hooked up, (Wanted to see if I'd have trouble remembering to pour the half quart in at every fill-up I've read this does no harm to the engine) but I recently purchased this:

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

I received the part a couple days ago, it came with instructions, new bolts and oil rings. I plan on continuing to run premix (its an s-5 which has the somewhat unreliable electronic metering pump) as insurance + better dispersion accross combustion chamber, and I'll still have the metering pump running premix if the car should have to sit for a while causing the oil to come out of suspension in the gas tank. Supposedly this takes aroud 6 months if you run TCW-3 Grade 2 cycle oil, but I don't want to take any chances.

There is no additional smoke, and the car exhaust actually smellls a litlle better than it did before. I've also read that good 2 cycle oils will actually continue to lubricate during the exhaust phase of the cumbustion cycle, something engine oil does NOT do.

Mazda supposedly considered something like the PCV technologies adaptor, but felt people would not want to have to add oil 2 seperate places, or something like that.

It also will allow you to run any oil you want. I agree, synthetic is probably overkill on an NA rotary, but if you have a turbo, the turbo bearings will benefit from the use of the synthetic.

 

Cheap insurance I'd say.... what is more an added $5 dollars every oil change and $1dollar every gas fill-up, or the cost of engine repair? I fill-up twice a month, daily driven, so $2 a month => $24 + $5*4 oil changes = $44 annually for 12k for an added life of 120%-150% of normal.

 

1985 GSL-SE 214k and running like a clock best car i have ever owned i think it may last longer than me and iam allready 50 yrs old lol Ron in north carolina