People rarely post follow-ups here, and I think they can be important for other members with similar problems, so here is one. Keep in mind I an no rotary guru.

Idle was bad for quite some time; it would read 1500 coming off the hiway, other times it wouldn't level out and bouce around ~700.

I adjusted my mixture screw, the large one at the middle of the carb. I had set it before to compensate for the low idle somewhat and it was at over 10 turns out. Reset to 3 1/2 turns out.

Adjusted the idle screw, smaller one under the accellerator pump, which is near the back of the drivers side of the carb. Very hard to see. I adjusted this till the car idled at about 800rpm, but the idle was still shaky.

Found the problem. That long fitted hose that runs down the back of the carb; I can't remembe what its called now but its a common problem. It had about a half inch split near the bottom where it hits the LIM.

Long story short, I electric taped the hole and fine tuned the idle to about 900rpm, and it has stayed mostly consistant all day.

Question. I said "mostly". Sometimes the idle still dips or fluctuates. One thing I'm leaning to is the smaller vacuum line on the shutter valve. I have this line disconnected and I wonder if its causing a vacuum leak. The larger diamater hose is still running up into the airbox.

Hope this post wasn't wasteful-If its helps one person then I've done my job

 

Ah, nice

 

Very thoughtful of you to post a follow-up.
Vacuum leaks are a common problem what with the proliferation of vacuum hoses on these cars, especially since any original hoses are now about 20 years old! Good work!
-WG

 

Thanks for the follow up. The hose you repaired is called the anti-afterburn hose. BTW, you might wanna block that large hose to your shutter valve, I blocked mine and it really really helped my idle problems.

 

Thanks. The latest: Got my new anti-afterburn hose from Mazdatrix today. And I stuck a lug bolt in the larger shutter valve hose, fits nice. Now its on to bigger and better problems...