1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

How do you tell a S4 block from an S5?

Old Nov 24, 2003 | 01:51 PM
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From: Da ATL
How do you tell a S4 block from an S5?

I found a guy that has 30 or so 13Bs around but doesn't know what year each one is. I'm looking for an S5 to rebuild with my 12A plates. How can you tell a S5 block from an S4? I'm not sure how much of the accessory stuff is on each, so the more basic the difference, the better.
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Old Nov 24, 2003 | 03:07 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
the s4 has an egr valve right on top on the center iron. the s4 also has an aluminum water pump neck.
s5 has a 3 bolt metering pump, the s4 only has 2.
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Old Nov 24, 2003 | 03:22 PM
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From: Watertown, MA
like j9fd3s said,

EGR valve in intermediate plate = S4.
Aluminium water pump neck, with fill-up point = S4
Plastic water pump neck, with no fill-up point = S5

in addition,
Electric OMP = S5
Knock Sensor above spark plugs in the rotor housing = S5

Oh, BTW, you can't use 12A sideplates with 86+ 13B engines. They moved the water seals, so they're not compatable. If you want an 86+ 4port 13B, you need to get TII side housings, at least, and all the housings if you want to elminate the PITA exhaust port diffuser.
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Old Nov 24, 2003 | 03:25 PM
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From: Da ATL
Okay, so in order to build a 4-port 13B for a 12A car, what's the easiest course of action? I have good 12A plates in the car now but want the S5 rotors. It looks like I need a turboII for the plates and housings and a S5 for the rotors. Dammit, there's two more motors to buy. Is there a more cost effective way to get where I'm going?
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Old Nov 24, 2003 | 03:34 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
well you can get the s5 na rotating bits and for the rest either get

1. a t2 block
2. your 12a plates with gsl-se rotor housings

the t2 motor should be better, as it lets you keep the 12a together should you wanna sell it or put the car back to stock

mike
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Old Nov 24, 2003 | 03:37 PM
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From: Da ATL
I still need the 12A front cover though, right?
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