How did you mount your T2 in your FB?
Just thought I would chime-in on the parts availability front: GSL-SE front covers and oil pans are still available brand new from Mazda and the pricing is not too bad. Figure about $300 for the pair (~$200 for the front cover and ~$100 for the oil pan), presuming you want the California-model oil pan (no oil temp sensor for cold-start). Obviously used stuff is typically cheaper, but they are getting harder to find and sometimes in really bad condition for the price.
I have the measurements, and have been thinking about taking them down to the machine shop. I know a couple guys who could whip up a pretty nice kit.
Actually, I didn't, I had just gotten up before I posted my reply. Did I miss something here? The oil pans are reversed between the 1st and 2nd gens due to the center link/R&P being on different sides of the cross centerline of the engine. That is why the SE oil pan is a must. As far as motor mounts, either 1st gen front cover will work, depending on how one chooses to handle the mop. The SE cover accommodates the 4 line mop, the 12A cover has 2.
Building custom motor mounts is simply an exercise in extra work that's not needed. As far as how to center mount an 86+ engine in a 1st gen body, I've never looked into it. I do know one thing though. If one can't transfer the loads of the mounts to the center cross subframe, it will not hold up. The frame rails are too thin on the outside to be able to weld a mount to and have them hold over the long term. If this route is taken, the mount would need bolts that pass all the way through the frame rail. This is a fine idea until one torques the bolts down and finds that the frame rail is crushing because there isn't enough internal bracing in the frame rail to prevent it. What do I base that supposition on, look at the mounting points for the idler arm and the steering box. Both have sleeves built into the frame rails to prevent them from crushing.
One might be surprised how much they can learn in regards to the hows and whys a unibody is built when they get out the sawzall and cut up the shell to see where internal bracing is or isn't.
If MIB chooses to pursue the center mount, far be it from me to stop him. I'm simply telling what has and does work and has been the simplest/easiest way to install an 86+ engine in a 1st gen. A methodology that has proven it's viability for for years with long term results.
So back to my 1st question, what am I missing in my 1st post?
Building custom motor mounts is simply an exercise in extra work that's not needed. As far as how to center mount an 86+ engine in a 1st gen body, I've never looked into it. I do know one thing though. If one can't transfer the loads of the mounts to the center cross subframe, it will not hold up. The frame rails are too thin on the outside to be able to weld a mount to and have them hold over the long term. If this route is taken, the mount would need bolts that pass all the way through the frame rail. This is a fine idea until one torques the bolts down and finds that the frame rail is crushing because there isn't enough internal bracing in the frame rail to prevent it. What do I base that supposition on, look at the mounting points for the idler arm and the steering box. Both have sleeves built into the frame rails to prevent them from crushing.
One might be surprised how much they can learn in regards to the hows and whys a unibody is built when they get out the sawzall and cut up the shell to see where internal bracing is or isn't.
If MIB chooses to pursue the center mount, far be it from me to stop him. I'm simply telling what has and does work and has been the simplest/easiest way to install an 86+ engine in a 1st gen. A methodology that has proven it's viability for for years with long term results.
So back to my 1st question, what am I missing in my 1st post?
Reminded me of the "Drill Instructors" in paris island USMC boot camp.
I salute you!
JPF
Who has actually run a TII on a 12a tranny? I know it can be done, and probably isnt the greatest idea, but I'm curious to see what kinda abuse it can take. I mean I beat on my car pretty hard and have NEVER had anything but reliable good times. I'm assuming you'd be using the 12a clutch and flywheel with the TII counterweight, correct?
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