mods delete

 

the clutch mc is right next to the brake mc (its just a little smaller) follow the line to the slave. its on the driver side of the engine, just below the oilcooler (its a bitch and 1/2 to get at) to remove it there are 2 bolts holding it to the bellhousing of the tranny. take them out and it just comes off. the mc is a little harder if youre not a contortionist. get a 10mm and a 12mm wrench to remove the clutch pedal pushrod from the rear of the mc. there are 2 12mm nuts holding the mc to the firewall, once these are removed, the mc comes right out.
reinstalliation is pretty straightforeward. just be sure to leave about 1mm of play in the pushrod.

when you get your new mc, make sure that its painted well or make a gasket to go between it and the firewall. i took mine out of the box and just bolted it in and a 3 days later there was an area of rust the size of the palm of my hand all around the mc on the fireall.

 

If you open the hood and stand on the driver's side of the car (LHD), the clutch master cylinder will be the black tube-shaped bit that's smaller and closer to the fender. It'll have a milky plastic reservoir tank on top with a black screw-on cap, I believe. A steel line will come out on top of the unit toward the front of the car, head back to the firewall, change to a soft line (to keep the line from tearing when the drivetrain shifts on its mounts), and go down to the bellhousing on the trans. It'll end in a smaller cylinder with a rubber accordion boot on the end; that's the slave cylinder. To remove the master, you have to undo the nuts holding it to the firewall from inside the driver's footwell. Get a flashlight and ideally a second person to hold it, because it's a bit of a b*tch to see when your back is breaking on the door sill and you are trying to undo the nuts with both hands. I did mine not too long ago, and I recall having to loosen the locknut and back the pedal adjuster all the way in (or out?) to get the master cyl. unhooked from the pedal. Installation is the reverse of removal. Slave cylinder is even easier; I believe it's just two bolts holding it onto the bellhousing and off it comes. Open the bleeder on the slave with a hose attached leading to an empty soda bottle, remove the master's reservoir cap, and pump the fluid out of the system (cleaner that way). Then remove the hose from the master and slave, remove the master and slave themselves, and put back together with the new parts in the reverse order. Then you will bleed the system in exactly the same way you would bleed your brakes when replacing components. Use DOT4-spec brake fluid, and remember to clean off any fluid IMMEDIATELY before it eats your paint.

Use quality hydraulics, too. Cheap rebuilds usually last no more than a season or two; you get lower cost per mile by using Japanese aftermarket NEW parts, or genuine Mazda parts. Check with any of the better aftermarket shops (Racing Beat, etc.) for stuff you know will not crap out on you in no time. My GSL-SE came with a "new" clutch master that lasted about 500 miles; I replaced it with a quality Japanese aftermarket unit and have gone 2500 trouble-free miles since.

 

wow its actually alot easier then i thought it was going to be.....my uncle was sayin(hes the one with the car) than when he had it checked out the mechanic said the slave was inside the bellhousing....i was thinkg i was going to have to drop the tranny or pull the motor....what a relief

 

As others have noted, the "Beehive" oil cooler makes it a bit of a bear access-wise. I am fortunate enough to have a GSL-SE, with the 13B motor, and I have a proper oil cooler in front of my radiator. It's a LOT easier to get to the slave cylinder on a 13B, I guess... Still, it won't require you to pull the tranny or anything like that (replacing the clutch will, of course... And if you're going to replace the clutch, you may want to replace the slave cylinder while the trans is out of the car, for ease of access).

 

the slave is what NEEDS to be replaced....i thought i was going to have to drop the tranny so i was just going to replace it all and not have to worry about anything.....now that i know i dont need to drop the tranny im not gonna replace the clutch....it only has 29k miles ne way