ok guys i had an srt,and was tired of payments,i sold it money left over so i picked up this for 2,500

 

the mods are 12a so called bridgeport,header holley fp,fpr,holley 650,high perf wires,straight exhaust no res or cat,bronze clutch,so the guy i bought the car was a little older the carwas build at mothers in nj,they are closed down now,but he touced alot off things and i am trying to get her back to where she was,he took out quarters out off the intake ports,lowerd the feul pressure fom 8 to 6,retarded the timing,and lowerd the fuel mixture screws on the holley,it has 2,when i rev the car from the front of the car looking at the squirters gas seems to stop squirting at high rpm,i raised the fp to 8,upped the timing there was a mark of the orig timing ,and i looked at the holley vids so i wil turn the air mix screws to 1and a half out,the symtoms off he car was a big studder,slow accelartion,and a backfire at high rpm,also what more or less should the car idle at it was at 1,000 rpm steady,i raised it to 1,500 rpm,any help will greatley be apprecaited,holley guys please help,thanks.

 

very nice car! i wish i still had my welds. Those skinnies make turning a breeze!

 

very nice. what are your plans for the car?

 

thanks guys,just plan of going to a few car shows for now,until i can tune what i have,but i wanna go fast on a tight budget,for now.

 

do you have a AF meter? i would get one if you dont just to keep a eye on ur rich/lean levels

 

where can i find an decent a/f meter and where would i hook it up,this is diffrent then mounting to qxy sensor??thanks any help greatly apprecaited.

 

autometer wideband will help, narrowband is a waste. Fuel pressure is too high! Need video of the exhaust at idle to verify a bridgeport.

 

yea it does smell like a gas station,i put it down to 7,and i have the air mix screws 1 and a half out on the carb,both sides,when i gas the car real fast standing still the car will just choke as its getting to much air or gas,i look at the sqriter's on the holley and they stop throwing fuel at the top of the rev.

 

i have the idle set at 1500,the guy said they opened up the exhaust ports,maybe they just did that,and im mistaking the bridgeport part,it doesnt really have that lope to it.

 

First of all that carb is way too big. If you looking for something easy to tune, just drop on an Edelbrock 500 cfm. If you like to tune, try to find a Holley 450 cfm. I have made a Holley 600 cfm work, but it took alot of tweaking to get it right. The reason the squirters quit spraying at the top of the revs is they are controlled by the accelerator pump. They should only spray fuel when you press the throttle. When the throttle is steady it quits pumping.

BTW, nice ride.

 

This is what a bridgeport sounds like with a Holley 600. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09_ukjxh-zM

 

thanks,the car sorta sounds like that one but,i dont have my idle set that high,the mani looks to be a modded one,is the 500 the easiest way out ,which one do i look for thanks.

 

A 500 cfm edelbrock thunder series is very friendly. Are you premixxing??

 

is that when they have oil squirters into the carb,if so yes,i know im a noob,lol

 

Check the level of your floats, make sure both of them are at the right 'hight'. Other than that change your fuel filter, make sure its not dirty for those upper rpms...I have a bridge-port with a Holley 600; works fine.
Ricky

 

You should be able to get the carb you have to work fine. It may be a little sensitive with throttle input below a certain RPM. If you spend enough time with the car you will learn what not to do. Big carb will scream on the topend if it really is a bridgeport. Set fuel pressure back to 6psi, adjust floats to a trickle with the plugs out, set idle to ~1200, set idle screws to more like 2 turns out, the ignition timing on a brideport is not set the same as stock. RB says to set timing at 6000rpm (full advance) to 24*/5*.
http://www.racingbeat.com/PDF/timingchart.pdf


If you switch the carb for an Edelbrock there are a few issues that will surface.
1. Car will stumble, buck or die when you turn left.
2. Metering rods will oval out the main jets leading to a gradual richening of the primary cruise and power mixture.
3. After beating against the jets for a while the metering rods will break leaving them sitting in the jet and power stage wont work.
4. Not to mention you will need to tune the whole thing from scratch.

Nice car.

 

that carb is fine...

Running a bridgeport with that carb set up is great and just fine...Put your fuel press right around 7 or 8 and your fine...

Also you can't just go around turn-ing needles and **** unless you know what your doing.Its a waste of time your and your not getting anything done but running around in circles..

What size jets are you running?
where is your time at now?
close the needles all the way and then open them up 1 full turn then another half
set your press at 7ish 8 pounds..
sitting there revin the motor is going to do nothing for you too...
You have the run the car and see how it rolls, drives, and picks up...Any 7 with a bridgie is different from one motor to another...So what i have listed is a go by start point to work with not set in stone...
also set the rpm around 1000 or so i would say like 1100 1200 or just leave it at 1500

If you don't want to listen to me then listen to 13bt rx3 i don't know what else to tell you...

"The carb is too big" hahahahahahaha what a bunch of jokers...its an easy tune but it will take a little time...

nice clean ride by the way

 

If the engine has been truly fully bridgeported, it will not sustain an idle less than 1500 rpms. The 650 IS too big. Even for the bridge. If you guys actually owned or built your own engines, you would know that. As far as tuning the 650, yes you can make it work, but it will always be finicky. Start with 62 primary jets, 68 secondary jets, and for the love of God, put a 50cc accelerator pump in, if it doesn't have one already. Ditch the power valve. The power valve will not operate properly with a bridgeport (if the engine is indeed bridgeported). Set the fuel pressure at 6.5 psi. Try that and see what happens. If you are not tuning with a wideband, you will never get it dialed in.

 

my car sounds almost exactly like that with straight pipes but it idles at like 900 1100 is it possable that i have a bridgee what is a sure fire way to tell with out taking it apart everything looks stock
(sorry for the jack)

 

thanks for the great info guys,i will try a little bit of everthing,the fuel preesure is at 7 or 61/2 now i have to double check but when i lowerd it it had a cleaner rev.without breaking up,but u guys are right i have to drive the car hopfully it will be registered this week so i can can drive her,checking the plugs will help after a run i suppose,thanks,ears are open,i wanna learn.

 

sweet ride by the way..i had a bridgeport yrs ago and had a 600 series i believe( didnt really know for sure) but traded it for a 450 and loved it. for me the milage got a little better and the responsiveness was sweet. low to mid was great and the top end was pretty smooth as well. the af meter wide band will help you out a lot you really need it. i dont have my connect for parts anymore (i had a great link with the SCCA group) as the market now is to high for me..... Bad 83 is very knowledgable and wouldnt guide you wrong. not saying everyone else would, its just everyone set up is for their personal preference even if in some cases borderline. mines was smoother acceleration while getting better milage. some would say milage is not a issue and if it is that the price you pay for a power induced motor.

 

thanks guys,listening to everyone,keep them coming.

 

Good advice! a 450 holley or 500 edelbrock would work well!

 

how can i find out what carb i have,rather than go by what i was told,i wanna be sure,any numbers,i should look for,thanks.