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hey you have that carter fuel pump regulated? is the pump just a 7lb pump? the holley needs 6-7 lbs fuel pressure. dont regulate the carter . if it is a 7lb ,also check the filters. have you rebuilt the engine? if so did you use the correct yr model flywheel & conterbalance with the correct rotars? i have 1st hand knowlage of the holly so do not regulate the carter if it is the 7lb pump. also did you cap the return line or did you t into the line? cap the return line. i dont use any vacum on distrib at all just set the timeing accourdingly. have you put a compression tester on the engine? if you can give me more informtion maybe i can help you?

 

not regulated, 7 psi pump, going to put new filters on it the 16th ( pay day) , not rebuilt, return line capped, i am using the vacume on the dizzy, timing's right, i dont have a compression tester, what do you think? thanks.

 

hmm tricky. ok you noted that the floats are correct. double check them . have you checked to see if there is any leaks around the manifold. use carb cleaner spray all around the manifold see if the engine stalls a little at low rpms . did the engine respond well before the holley . 49 is normal from raceing beat for the stock carb.
i prefer to use smaller jets for a little lower idle. on the primarys also you did check the secondary side for fuel starvation maybe your float is bad. on the secondarys and its sucking all the fuel out . needle valve may not be opening all the way. if everything ran right with the nikki before your swaped then its the carb. it is sometimes a pain in the but to correctly set the floats you might have to pull the bowls off and messure them visualy

 

ok i'll buy some carb cleaner soon, the car was wrecked when i bought it so i did not really get to drive it in the process of fixing her up, the nikki had a bad shutter valve and i wanted an rb anyway so i just changed it, that was in aug 06 i did'nt start driving her until oct 06.

 

check for rust in the fuel filters. do you have a sight filter on your carburator . glass filter. if you havnt changed the filters take the old one and shake it out the oppisite direction of the fuel flow run some fuel in it and shake the allow the fuel to pass out the other direction.. this may or may not help but if your tank is dirty it could very well be the cause

 

if you havnt drove it you may really want to have a freind or someone you now that has a regular compression tester to check for apex seal compression. make sure they run 3 bounces for each houseing at close to the same level between 90-120 lbs is good. no more than 20 lbs difference between the both houseing. they need to be a consistent bounce if not that may also be your problem.

 

ok, i'm chaning the fuel filter under the car and i'm going to put one right before the carb when i get paid. i don't know any one with a compression tester. is it very likley that the problem is internal?

 

Question: Is this something that started happening all at once?...did it run ok above 5k before you installed your fuel system or right after? It would be much more helpful for us if you were to give us a better description and when the symptoms started. How does the car idle?....if you had poor compression on one or more faces of a rotor, you would have a poor idle, no matter what the fuel mixture was. And it would make poor power at all rpms, not just above 5k.
Perhaps you didn't read my earlier post.

 

Is this a Nikki carb? If so, then I believe you'll need to have a fpr since you don't have the return line hooked up. A Nikki will run on a Carter without a fpr, because there is an orifice that restricts the flow anyway. But if I remember correctly, if you don't run the return line then that screws it up.

 

well it has been like this since i started driving it, it got better when i upgraded the fuel pump, and the idol is pretty good. it is a holley carb.

 

hmmm, now it seems to only do it between 5300rpm and 6300rpm and clears up past 6300rpm and stays clear to redline. any ideas?

 

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i'm changing the dizzy cap and rotor today i'll see if that will do anything.

 

yep, the new dizzy cap and rotor fixed it. sorry i made you guys runaround for 3 pages over a dizzy cap and rotor. thanks.

 

crap, now it's doing it again, it seems like the trailing part of the rotor is hitting the post on the under side of the dizzy cap: the one from the trailing coil. i can clearly see a notch on the post from something hitting it. what could cause this? thanks