Hi, n00b questions.
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Hi, n00b questions.
Hey I'm trying to buy a 1984 GS. It has 66k on the engine, 113 on the chassis. It has a 12A in great condition. I drove it...it's my cup of tea. no boing boing, just humm. But in order to buy it, I have to have it inspected by my local mechanic, is there anything I should tell the mechanic to look for, although that sounds stupid, since he is the trained one...but driving it, besides warming it up when you start it, what else should I do? let it cool down? Sorry if I sound so ignorant, it's just that I really want to buy this car and treat it right.
Again I apologize I'm sleepy and none of this made sense
Again I apologize I'm sleepy and none of this made sense
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Originally Posted by clbsinvaders
Hey I'm trying to buy a 1984 GS. It has 66k on the engine, 113 on the chassis. It has a 12A in great condition. I drove it...it's my cup of tea. no boing boing, just humm. But in order to buy it, I have to have it inspected by my local mechanic, is there anything I should tell the mechanic to look for, although that sounds stupid, since he is the trained one...but driving it, besides warming it up when you start it, what else should I do? let it cool down? Sorry if I sound so ignorant, it's just that I really want to buy this car and treat it right.
Again I apologize I'm sleepy and none of this made sense
Again I apologize I'm sleepy and none of this made sense
Well your local mechanic can't perform the most important test of all, a compression test.
If you take it to a rotary specialist then they could do a competent compression test even without the factory tester. What i am telling you is that the rotary engine is the only real difference between it and other cars.
A suspension is a suspension, steering is steering, etc......
Besides looking at things like ball joints, tie rods, steering box and the idler arm for play parts are parts. Some of the more common things on steering on the rx7 that fail are the bushings in the idler arm, will have excessive up and down play. The steering box if worn out will have excessive play before the wheel moves.
Common oil leaks on rotary engines that are not easy fixes are leaks inbetween the rotor housings or at the dowel pins.. A leaking oil pan or oil metering pump is common and a straight forward repair unlike the housing leaks.
Ask the person who is selling it if they have had to add coolant often, that could be a sign of coolant seals internally. If it is not due to a water pump, radiator cap or leaking hoses or radiator.
Searching the FAQ's about how to perform a compression test on a rotary and printing it out for your mechanic could be beneficial.
I failed to pay attention to where you are from but if it is in the midwest or any state that has snow or excessive rain. Then you need to look behind the storagebins, look in the hatch area and wheelwell area for rust. Also thourghly inspect the undercarriage.
Making sure the car is running properly. IE: Idles correctly, is firing on both the leading and trailing ignition. Verified easily with a timing light.
Hope this helps.
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