sound like maybe one of your coils is poop...but then again...it is a rotary

 

Did you read his first post? he checked leading and trailing timing, both on mark. If one of his coils was poop, he would be unable to check either leading or trailing timing.

 

I emailed Sterling. Should be hearing back about the jets in the carb soon. Hopefully this will give me something else to go on...

 

If it's any consolation, the pictures look really GREAT! Sputtering at idle could be a carb problem.
Not being able to get beyond 6K could be a carb problem.
But shaking and bucking at hi RPM as well as not getting past 6K is almost definitely not a carb problem. I would be hard pressed to try to jet a carb to do that.
It has "Ignition" written alllll over it.
Don't mess with the carb. By your own account, it idled smoothly @ 500 RPM and ran great on the other engine. The jetting requirements won't be different all of the sudden, right?
So I would just check that the linkage isn't hanging up, you have enough throttle cable slack, and do the usual vacuum leak testing. But concider the carb ok so you can rule it out as the cause of the epileptic fits your engine is having.
*On a side note, not getting the idle below 1K could be ignition OR the carb. (-Or both) Turn the throttle shaft adjust screw until you're "idling" at 2K. Now you're out of the idle circuit, and pretty much using the main circuit to maintain an idle. At that RPM, you may also not be relying on Trailing spark for much, but check with someone else.

Be sure to set the throttle stop on your pedal. I know I warned you about this, as I warn everyone. It's very important because if you run out of cable before you run out of pedal, you're basically twisting the throttle shaft farther than it's supposed to go with your foot.
This results in either a twisted shaft (if it was milled thinner for better flow), or divots in one or both primary throttle valves that can raise idle. Often it can only be remedied by an idle bleed correction for that side...A real PITA to figure out!
I think that's relatively easy to determine by removing some plugs and listenin g to the engine compression. If you have a dead seal, you'll probably know it.I believe that if the counterwieght is not correct, you'll still have a very consistant and fast kind of vibration. (And soon, a dead engine.)Should be a 7, but the 5 will be ok for stock.Crank that puppy on up to 4 psi. The stock later years spec.ed 4.25, I think.Awww schucks! The only jets I would've changed would be the fuel jets, and that's not going to effect idle.No problems there.They can be tricky. The monofiliment sometimes doesn't make good contact with the coil, or the brass contact in the coil is dirty, or the ends don't clamp on to the plugs very well.
The other thing is you have to watch out for arcing. I know it can degrade performance, but I don't know if it can cause this kind of thing.[quote.]I have replaced the old coils with two brand new MSD Blaster 2 coils.[/quote] ...So much for the brass contact inside the coil being dirty.
They are called "contacts"..."pickups are inside the dizzy under the metal cover. Important to know when you're talking to an ignition guru, like Jeff20B. -BTW, you do have that metal plate in place, right?Your ignition won't be optimized this way, but the advance pot adjust the ignition too miutely to be the cause of your problem. (I think.)Maybe not hot enough, though, which would indicate a shorting.
Still think your shaft is off.

 

I would stick with regular 2 cycle oil for premix.Synthetic is even better if you can afford it.Performance 2 cycle oil like Yamalube would be prefferable over generic lawn and garden, or outboard 2 cycle oil.MMO is kinda a gray area oil.Its not exactly specific what its rated to handle.Some say its more a cleaner,others say its an additive,others swear its a straight lubricant.Even the labeling is vauge.I wouldnt trust it to be the sole lubricant for my apex seals,even if it does burn clean.Good dino, and all synthetic 2 cycle oils burn clean when ratio'ed properly with good gas in a healthy engine.
Its also important to add the oil before you fill the tank with gas.Or better yet(but more hassel),have the pre measured oil mixed and shaken in a small gas can with about a quart of fuel.This will thin out the oil and make it readily mix with the incoming straight fuel.Whatever you do,dont put the oil in last or it wont mix well and you could end up sucking super-heavy,unmixed oil off the bottom of the tank and REALLY screwing up the mix.........and also,run 87 cheap gas,N/A rotaries like it over premium.

 

That would explain the vibration all teh time and why it won't rev above 6k. Even if it's not the total cause, i would fix that first because it can do serious harm to the motor, maybe put your old flywheel on just to make suse that's not the issue, or get the correct counter weight. contact racingbeat, they're realy good at responding to email. ussual only takes 24 - 48 hours to get a response.

 

Mmmm play with the timing by ear, not with the light. Those marks you put on the pulley could be way out. Good luck, once you solve this, it will have all been worth it

 

what an annoying wannabee. so much talk but your car runs like ****, not to mention you kept on blowing your motors.

 

Couldn't Help Notice That You Have The Same Blaster Coils On Your Car I Do, How Ever Mine Came A Ballast To Connect To Each. Did Yours Come With Them And Didn't Hook Them Up? Or Do You Even Have To Hook Them Up?

 

PLEASE!
Do NOT turn this thread sour!
Poor Jamie has been working his *** off building this car from scratch for over a year. Let's help him out.

 

Sterling,

Sent you another email about my mixture screw. Just some thoughts that I'm throwing around.. Let me know what you think. THanks..

 

Ok,

I'd like to whittle down my potential problems some more so if I can get everyone's assistance again we'll do just that.

I want to elminate the speculation that I may be using the incorrect counterweight with my lightened flywheel, and new engine. My car is an 85 GS, and was originally an overdrive automatic. When I took the original automatic engine out, I removed the counterweight from it. Thus giving me a good 85 counterweight to use. I then purchased my replacement engine from the junkyard in Ohio, over the telephone out of another "Manual 85 GS". I never saw the car in person so I can't be sure what year it was. I am 98% positive that the engine I bought REALLY IS out of an 85 like they said. The junkyard claimed that it was an 85 engine, and I trust them very much. I have always had great luck dealing with them.

I have posted some pictures of the junkyard engine below. I am not sure how to distinguish what year the engine is, so this is where I need everyone's help. If any of you guys can tell me how to correctly identify the year of the engine, I can definitely rule this out as the cause of the problem. I'm not sure what to look for, so I put some generic pictures up to start with. If anyone needs pictures of a certain area to make a correct determination please let me know, and I will post the appropriate pictures of the engine.

The way that the engine is running makes me believe that it is NOT a compatability issue between the engine and counterweight. The blips and misses in the throttle are not always constant, and seem to happen randomly when compared to the engine RPMS. If the counterweight and engine were matched wrong, I believe that I would be experiencing a constant shaking at all times, that increases with the engine speed. This is not the case. These jerks, and shakes seem to happen rather haphazardly which makes me think it is an ignition issue. Also, I read back through my initial post, and I believe that I may have exaggerated the harshness of the shaking that I'm feeling. It is not what I would call "violent". I would say that it feels like a typical misfire. The engine bucks a little bit, and as the speed picks up you can really start to notice it. But it doesn't feel like the engine is going to rip itself off the mounts....

Let me know what year you guys think this engine is.... Thanks!

Jamie

 

My car is running great right now, and I'm afraid is not the same about yours is it? so why don't you STFU.

 

So what sizes are your fuel jets?

 

It's not the fuel jets, Carlos.

 

Anyone have confirmation on the year of my engine??

 

Nice looking motor Jamie! How sure are you that the grounding is adequate? I was having some ignition stumbling/missing that was fixed by running some new ground wires from the engine to the battery. Just a thought....Good luck man!

 

Did the motor come with the beehive on it? I can't tell from the pics, but does the heater hose nipple on the side of the engine (by the oil pressure sender) have a tee or does it come straight out? If it had the beehive and/or a tee on the heater hose nipple, you do have an 83-85 12A engine. These years all used the same rotors so the balance should be fine if this is the case.

 

ok.

 

If I were you, I will switch back to NGK wires. somtimes, it may idle fine but its cutting out on high RPM like the magnecor

 

Dump the stock carb and get a real carb like a sidedraft or a holley your having secondary problems , jets in carb are clogged so fuel is not flowing correctly,aslo try to advance the trailing on the dist. {HAVE FUN}

 

Oh goody.
Another ******* has joined the forum.

 

You said you think it might be the timing, there was a write up on how to find TDC on the motor, i forgot where it was though. but find TDC and them put the dizzy in the motor and time it up by ear and see if that helps. also a very dumb thing but try rotating the dizzy cap 180 degrees.

 

Yet again.

 

Good idea. I can't tell from the pics either, but since I see a cap on the end and I think he's still got a heater in there, I would guess the coolant hose is hooked up to the other nipple on the tee.

I would think this is an ignition problem.