blwfly

iTrader: (4)

iv tryed checking all pulgs and all wires they are firing
if i unglug rotor 2's wires it wont start/fire
if i just have rotor 2's wires on itl partcialy go then die

when i have all pluged in i have to pump gas in a sequance to get the revs slowly up and itl back fire lots
heres a vid duno if ya can hear it good enough but theres a big bang at the end

http://media.putfile.com/grumble

throw me some ideas
alls wellcome
im guessing rotor 1 isnt gettin enough compression iv turened it over with plugs out it sounds like the other motors i have.

chris

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

Can you manually turn it over with the plugs out, one rotor at a time, you should hear three definate puffs per rotation, if you do you should have three good sealed chambers.

Have you double checked the timing and firing order?

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

wasnt it every 180deg of the timming pully cause a pfft

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

it feels like im only gettin 2 evan pffts
i duno if it depends on how evan you can turn the motor
heres a pic of where it seems to give a pfft im gonna check the other cars to see how it is

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

That sounds correct as it fires twice every timing rotation.

It always comes down to air, fuel and spark, check them all thoroughly.

You seem to have spark down properly, so what do the plug ends look like, are they wet/flooded, are they brown/black.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

well the leading has a lil bit of black startin to show up trailing are still pretty clean lil blackness
the trailings were fouling the first 8 times i tyed starting grumbled ild takem out and check clean crank the motor too get the fuel/wat ever else in there

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

well i turned my other two engines over they all sound the same

well my air/fuel should be fine since the carbs off a running car and also its been rebuilt

did you have a look at the short vid aussie
if it was fuel prob dosnt that come into affect at higher rev


when i did get the revs up and kinda stomped it it sounded like my blue car i couldnt get it over 6000 it started to tremble to a halt tho

Kentetsu

You don't have spark on the leading plugs... That's my bet.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

but i doo!!!
on all plugs

igniters playing up maybe?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Vid's taking too long to dl. Try swaping the L1 and L2 plugs and see if that make a difference, if not, then swap the plug wires between each one. If that doesn't make any difference, check/clean the dizzy cap and rotor, and the connections for the spark plug boots.

Still no changes, check the float levels, front and rear. If they are the same, pour a capful of motor oil down each barrel, turn over by hand, then fire it up If you aren't making any progress, do a compression check.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

cheers scott
ill try your variation of sanaraios and see how it goes

how can i do a compression check
iv done the plugs out version as stated above
piston compression checkers dont work?
iv tryed one before on the blue car i got 90psi same as my sa to
maybe tow it to a mazda dealer? whats the cost gonna be like?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Piston comp testers work, you remove the schrader valve and watch the bounces. If the bounces are even, put the schrader valve back in, that will give you the highest reading for each housing, While watching the bounces, you may only see 60-80 psi, but if all 6 are even and the higherst ones are over 85, the seals should be good for a while.

With only a couple of hours of run time on the bp, I was seeing 105-110 psi on the bounce test.

mr_ouija

Off-topic but I wish mine fired right up like that. Even if it died shortly after I'd be okay with it, just so long as it fired up.

Rotor13B

Try pouring a little bit of oil down the intake on each rotor, Turn a little bit and do it again. Let it sit a little while and see if it starts properly then. You could have an oil metering problem which isn't giving you sufficient compression.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

o te peaking

well i followed ya sequince of truobleshooting

it was a strange problem ended up swaping the dizzy a few times shanged the igniters 3or 4 times on each side used some dioletice grease on the plugs it helps!!

changed the dizzy gear around 180 till i got it right, i duno why but it helps
2 turns of main pully = 1 turn of the dizzy

put some oil down the carb to gain some compression this defintley helps too

fired it up idels bout 1300 no trouble giving gas is a smoth transistion

soo ild like to thank ya all for the input

chris

Keegan

cool now come down. i whant to hear it. that car was a great deal.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

i gotta get the title first
then get it insured
fix those rear brakes
do some fluid changes
change hydrolics
the bushings are worn on the stearing controll arm so ill take it off one of me other cars
change some interior few more other things im forgetting but within a week or two

Keegan

lot of work. The bushing are worn on the mine to. did you wash the car if so hows the paint look

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

that paint is faded bad on the bonnet and one side of the car not that i care tho

if anyone reads this can we buy the stearing bushings from any old autoparts store?

Keegan

that would be cool or can i buy then from mazda thay are just down the road

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear she's running Blowie....

sgieldon

Cris;
Head down to it's a Small World Auto Center on W. 4th Ave in Eugene. Phone # 683-6474.
They sell all the Front End Parts for your RX @ about half price then anyone else in town.
Brand New Parts Only!
Mostly Borg Warner or Moog names.
When I rebuilt my 80 sold now, I got all the OEM Parts there.
Good and Knowledgable Peole behind the counter.
Screw the Dealer.

Example:
Ball Joints from dealer $85.00 @ Small World $38.00.
Have Fun
Steve
sgieldon

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

thanks ill check it out today

so are you seven less?

Kentetsu

Check with Rockauto too. That's where I've been ordering from lately. Great prices and fast shipping. No issues with them so far. In fact, I've got a spare set of idler arm bushings that I never installed (used the Moog heavy duty idler arm as a replacement instead). I think I paid like 4 bucks each for them.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

ok iv found water pissing out when i rev higher than 6rev coming from the water housing (what ever its called)

was there any bolts that may of come off the ac or emmision that needed to be on
which may have losined the water housing
or i just need a new gasket can i buy just one and fix the leak or is it only in a set of gaskets

not another problem

heres a pic ov where the waters comin out
any help would be cool

hay could i put liquard gasket around the join im gonna go check the bolts see if there tight