help with holley
#26
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stock idle is around 12-12.5:1, if you free up the exhaust, it should be happier leaner, and of course the leanest setting that actually gives you a good idle is what you want. you should be able to make it happy in the 13.2-13.5 area, but YMMV!
the next step is the jets on the primary barrels, since you have a WB, shoot for 14-15:1 afr. and then the secondaries should get jetted to 12.5-13:1, what ever its happy with.
if you wanna use the butt dyno to jet it, you need to disable the secondaries, and get a selection of jets and you go from richest to leanest on the primaries, and you ideally want to start so rich it doesn't run, and then lean it out until it doesn't run, and then pick something a few jets richer than the lean limit. the engine will actually tell you what it wants. its actually really neat to do the butt dyno method, you learn a lot.
then you can hook the secondaries back up and repeat. i actually like the WB to do this part, and i don't have a dyno, so i just leave it rich, on a street port i'd shoot for 12.5-12.8. the engine will make more power leaner, but a little rich is safer
#32
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Spits at full throttle is usually a "lean pop", if it doesn't act up but power seems weak then it is often too rich.
List number for future reference is 4776-3
Test with 66 jets in the primary and 73 in the secondary. Start with a 6.5 power valve in the primary plate and a plug in the rear (if you have an older holley it will already be plugged).
This jetting will give a safe starting point.
Let us know what jetting is in it......
The primary power valve is an important function as it richens the fuel on demand by the equivalent of 6-8 jet sizes, improper function leads to a lean condition.
List number for future reference is 4776-3
Test with 66 jets in the primary and 73 in the secondary. Start with a 6.5 power valve in the primary plate and a plug in the rear (if you have an older holley it will already be plugged).
This jetting will give a safe starting point.
Let us know what jetting is in it......
The primary power valve is an important function as it richens the fuel on demand by the equivalent of 6-8 jet sizes, improper function leads to a lean condition.
#39
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First, you got an awsome deal on that carb. Next what intake setup are you using? Are the primary and secondary runners connected, open plenum?
Did you get extra jets and stuff with the carb?
What jets are in the carb?
Before I sold the carb to the guy you got it from it had 110 jets in. the secondarys iirc and the pvrc have been drilled, meaning that thing puts out a lot of gas. I would rejet the secondarys to 80 and check the primary accel pump linkage adjustment.
My stock port 12at idled about1500- 1800 rpm @13 afr iirc
YesI built that carb, and once you get it tunned it's awesome.
Did you get extra jets and stuff with the carb?
What jets are in the carb?
Before I sold the carb to the guy you got it from it had 110 jets in. the secondarys iirc and the pvrc have been drilled, meaning that thing puts out a lot of gas. I would rejet the secondarys to 80 and check the primary accel pump linkage adjustment.
My stock port 12at idled about1500- 1800 rpm @13 afr iirc
YesI built that carb, and once you get it tunned it's awesome.
#40
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the jets you put in seem to be the same ones you left in there it came with a rebuild kit so im guessing he dint get to take it apart. i just pulled it off and put back the 1406 mostlikely will be changing the jets . the intake im using is the racing beat intake
#44
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I got it. It hasn't been tested on an engine yet because the carb had several issues. First it took forever to arrive (35 days to be exact) because somebody forgot to drain the gas fully out of it before boxing it up. And what a lousy boxing job that was. Wrapped in plastic wrap outside the box and no support for the throttle shafts inside. I wouldn't be suprised if a shaft got bent. Just some scrunched up magazine pages was all, and totally flattened by the time it arrived. Slight punch through on the bottom so some of the small pieces from the rebuild kit he included disappeared. The rebuild kit he got for it is for a different model, you know, like for a smaller carb in the 390 to 465 size range. I've got a 390 that needs a rebuild kit so several of the undamaged gaskets and washers can be used in it, maybe.
And speaking of damage, looks like someone dropped the carb onto concrete. I noticed some concrete dust on the parts that were damaged - tell tale sign. The PCV/brake booster nipple got flattened but could still be blocked with a rubber cap, and the accel pump housing next to it sustained some impact damage but I think it'll be fine. The throttle lever was bent and seperated from the shaft. I had to get it there and first take off the added on piece of steel that someone held there with two screws. I was like what? Presumeably it was to attatch a throttle cable, but I compared it with my RB Holley 600 and it was no where near the same effort to pull the butterflies open by hand. And the bottom of the added on piece was bent 90 degrees horizontal, from being dropped from a distance.
Denser didn't disclose any of this. And it didn't happen inside the shipping box.
I don't know who dropped it, but the damage did not occour inside the box it was shipped it. The bottom wasn't punched through in the places where the concrete damage was found. However the box had what looked like water damage which then dried such as weakened cardboard and ink that ran, but no mildew/mold so it was probably from gas. When I opened the box there was a strong odor, so I'd say the carb still had gas in it when boxed up. By the time it arrived it was fully dry inside and out.
The fixes I've performed so far include removal of the weird added on throttle thing that was bent anyway. I cut it up into a small piece to fit at the bottom of the lever with a hole to mimic the position size and shape of the throttle lever on the RB carb. Also made a set of steel pieces to hold the throttle cable the way RB does it. Now it pulls open like an RB with the same effort. I also had to weld the main throttle lever back to the shaft. I kept the heat down to avoid burning any plastic bushings that may be there. In all, a decent fix and slight mod to make it more rotary friendly.
I hope the shaft itself isn't bent which could cause an idle issue that never goes away.
I'm not a Holley expert. Never taken one apart. I know Nikkis and Hitachis. But I'm doing what I can to get this double pumper up and running. Next is to take the float bowls off and see if the floats sustained any damage durings its incident with Denser (or whoever hamfisted this poor carb).
And speaking of damage, looks like someone dropped the carb onto concrete. I noticed some concrete dust on the parts that were damaged - tell tale sign. The PCV/brake booster nipple got flattened but could still be blocked with a rubber cap, and the accel pump housing next to it sustained some impact damage but I think it'll be fine. The throttle lever was bent and seperated from the shaft. I had to get it there and first take off the added on piece of steel that someone held there with two screws. I was like what? Presumeably it was to attatch a throttle cable, but I compared it with my RB Holley 600 and it was no where near the same effort to pull the butterflies open by hand. And the bottom of the added on piece was bent 90 degrees horizontal, from being dropped from a distance.
Denser didn't disclose any of this. And it didn't happen inside the shipping box.
I don't know who dropped it, but the damage did not occour inside the box it was shipped it. The bottom wasn't punched through in the places where the concrete damage was found. However the box had what looked like water damage which then dried such as weakened cardboard and ink that ran, but no mildew/mold so it was probably from gas. When I opened the box there was a strong odor, so I'd say the carb still had gas in it when boxed up. By the time it arrived it was fully dry inside and out.
The fixes I've performed so far include removal of the weird added on throttle thing that was bent anyway. I cut it up into a small piece to fit at the bottom of the lever with a hole to mimic the position size and shape of the throttle lever on the RB carb. Also made a set of steel pieces to hold the throttle cable the way RB does it. Now it pulls open like an RB with the same effort. I also had to weld the main throttle lever back to the shaft. I kept the heat down to avoid burning any plastic bushings that may be there. In all, a decent fix and slight mod to make it more rotary friendly.
I hope the shaft itself isn't bent which could cause an idle issue that never goes away.
I'm not a Holley expert. Never taken one apart. I know Nikkis and Hitachis. But I'm doing what I can to get this double pumper up and running. Next is to take the float bowls off and see if the floats sustained any damage durings its incident with Denser (or whoever hamfisted this poor carb).
#46
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Holllly ****. youve gotta be kidding. i ran that on my fb for quite some time then base jetted it close for when i went turbo. Im sorry to hear that man. I remember you and I talking about you buying this about the same time he was. This depresses me, it was a solid carb at one time. I was going to try to buy it back since im revisiting the 12aturbo build.
#48
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completely sorry if any problems with the holley when i bought it i had no knowledge of carbs and still pretty much dont but i shipped it out exactly how i received it all i ever did was smack it on my car and see if it ran the draining of the gas though was my fault i do apologize for that