The hells wherling sound on acceleration that goes away?
#1
Smoke moar
Thread Starter
The hells wherling sound on acceleration that goes away?
So when I drive I often hear this nasty vrooom like wherrling sound in the back, it changes & gets really nasty sounding on acceleration, on very slight throttle (coasting) it completely goes away.
Seems theres friction, I couldn't hit higher than 80 on the freeway. It's been happening a lot recently, now first time last night it completely went away for a bit, fb was speedier and noise free.
I can't safely figure out where it is but it clearly sounds from the differential, do they make those kind of noises? It's a LSD & it's leaking about a inch in diameter of fluid a day
Seems theres friction, I couldn't hit higher than 80 on the freeway. It's been happening a lot recently, now first time last night it completely went away for a bit, fb was speedier and noise free.
I can't safely figure out where it is but it clearly sounds from the differential, do they make those kind of noises? It's a LSD & it's leaking about a inch in diameter of fluid a day
#3
Smoke moar
Thread Starter
At a lube shop they changed my tranny fluid for me & said the diff was leaking quite a bit, then after they were near done and the manager went to the car on the other side the guy below told one of the guys above to ask me if i'd like him to top the fluid off cause it was kinda low.
then I noticed it leaking more, it's a changing sound slightly. Sometimes it's like grrrrr then it constantly sounds sorta like a plane overhead/wherling sound very very loud.
How would I know if it was an axle bearing? When I changed my rims a bit ago there was no play in any of the wheels cept the front has about 1/4th cm of play in every direction (top, left/right, bottom) which seems to be normal on cars.
The sounds been increasing since I bought the car, at first it was only bad in 2nd cruising or if I downshifted to 2nd before a quick turn, now it's in every single gear, seems to go away when it's cold out side but eventually returned.
then I noticed it leaking more, it's a changing sound slightly. Sometimes it's like grrrrr then it constantly sounds sorta like a plane overhead/wherling sound very very loud.
How would I know if it was an axle bearing? When I changed my rims a bit ago there was no play in any of the wheels cept the front has about 1/4th cm of play in every direction (top, left/right, bottom) which seems to be normal on cars.
The sounds been increasing since I bought the car, at first it was only bad in 2nd cruising or if I downshifted to 2nd before a quick turn, now it's in every single gear, seems to go away when it's cold out side but eventually returned.
#6
Smoke moar
Thread Starter
I got bad u-joints too I think, if I let off the clutch quickly in odd situations and such I get this clunk, was only bad while I was learning stick though
#7
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
That could be from bad u-joints, changing from accell to decell will show how much slack there is in the driveline. Get you diff fluid level checked and keep an eye on it. Once they get too low on fluid they don't last long at all. If it's leaking, fix it now while it's still a cheap repair. Fwiw, the rear axle bearings are sealed and lubed. You can run the diff dry and the axle bearings will still be ok.
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#8
Smoke moar
Thread Starter
That could be from bad u-joints, changing from accell to decell will show how much slack there is in the driveline. Get you diff fluid level checked and keep an eye on it. Once they get too low on fluid they don't last long at all. If it's leaking, fix it now while it's still a cheap repair. Fwiw, the rear axle bearings are sealed and lubed. You can run the diff dry and the axle bearings will still be ok.
*Opens fsm*
The lube shop said it's a very simple fix, said it was leaking at the plug i think ...
Shes still leaking about a quarter size every time i stop so I'm assuming it's still got fluid, Im gonna try to get at it I'd like to fix that along with my omp
#10
Smoke moar
Thread Starter
I'm sure that lube shop would of tightened the drain plug if that was the leak
I'm looking under and the majority of oil is by the drain plug I can't see anywhere else oils coming from
#12
Smoke moar
Thread Starter
^nope, the most weight I put in the fb was 4 light weight old school enki rims which you can lift with your pinky finger lol....
Oh well ive had someone in the back for a short ride to another friends house before, I guess 3 people that weigh 150ish exceeded the gwr of the 1st gen?
Oh well ive had someone in the back for a short ride to another friends house before, I guess 3 people that weigh 150ish exceeded the gwr of the 1st gen?
#18
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
i would personally aquire the necessary amount of gear lube, 80W90 works well and get a limited slip additive. remove the fill plug first, then the drain plug and drain all of the oil. before replacing the drain plug, inspect the threads to make sure there is no damage to them. reinstall the drain plug and make sure its snug. not so tight that its impossible to remove. it should be seated nearly flush with the axle housing. not completely flush but nearly. repalce the fluid with the proper amount.
next, put the trans in neutral, get under the car and inspect the u-joints. grab hold of the pinion side flange and grab the drive shaft close to the u-joint on the pinion side and rotate in opposide directions and check for play. should be very minimal if any. do the same for the front. when in doubt, remove the driveshaft and reinspect.
finally, with the car still in the air and the trans in neutral, rotate each rear wheel, one at a time. listen for bearing noise or at worse, grinding. grab the wheel at the top and at the bottom and wiggle it. it shouldnt move. if it does, this indicates slop in the rear bearing
next, put the trans in neutral, get under the car and inspect the u-joints. grab hold of the pinion side flange and grab the drive shaft close to the u-joint on the pinion side and rotate in opposide directions and check for play. should be very minimal if any. do the same for the front. when in doubt, remove the driveshaft and reinspect.
finally, with the car still in the air and the trans in neutral, rotate each rear wheel, one at a time. listen for bearing noise or at worse, grinding. grab the wheel at the top and at the bottom and wiggle it. it shouldnt move. if it does, this indicates slop in the rear bearing
#20
Smoke moar
Thread Starter
i would personally aquire the necessary amount of gear lube, 80W90 works well and get a limited slip additive. remove the fill plug first, then the drain plug and drain all of the oil. before replacing the drain plug, inspect the threads to make sure there is no damage to them. reinstall the drain plug and make sure its snug. not so tight that its impossible to remove. it should be seated nearly flush with the axle housing. not completely flush but nearly. repalce the fluid with the proper amount.
next, put the trans in neutral, get under the car and inspect the u-joints. grab hold of the pinion side flange and grab the drive shaft close to the u-joint on the pinion side and rotate in opposide directions and check for play. should be very minimal if any. do the same for the front. when in doubt, remove the driveshaft and reinspect.
finally, with the car still in the air and the trans in neutral, rotate each rear wheel, one at a time. listen for bearing noise or at worse, grinding. grab the wheel at the top and at the bottom and wiggle it. it shouldnt move. if it does, this indicates slop in the rear bearing
next, put the trans in neutral, get under the car and inspect the u-joints. grab hold of the pinion side flange and grab the drive shaft close to the u-joint on the pinion side and rotate in opposide directions and check for play. should be very minimal if any. do the same for the front. when in doubt, remove the driveshaft and reinspect.
finally, with the car still in the air and the trans in neutral, rotate each rear wheel, one at a time. listen for bearing noise or at worse, grinding. grab the wheel at the top and at the bottom and wiggle it. it shouldnt move. if it does, this indicates slop in the rear bearing
it appears to not leak anymore (no fluid?) the sound didnt really get worse but my LSD's locking up funky all the time and making these odd sounds when reversing or turning in parking lots, etc so the lsd is probably dead now
oh well i learned what a bitch cars are
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