Headlight Modification: Relay Installation interest?
12-25-05, 03:15 AM
#51
Full Member
Originally Posted by kenn_chan
20 amp relay = overkill.
This is good as it will last longer, but you want to use the smallest permissible fuse that will not blow from extended useage, so if your target amperage is 9.5 amps, a 15 amp fuse would probably be preferable. This will aloow a little extra for the initial current flow, will allow for heating of the fuse due to current flow without blowing easy, and yet will still blow at a low enough amperage so that you are not worried aobut short circuits.
kenn
This is good as it will last longer, but you want to use the smallest permissible fuse that will not blow from extended useage, so if your target amperage is 9.5 amps, a 15 amp fuse would probably be preferable. This will aloow a little extra for the initial current flow, will allow for heating of the fuse due to current flow without blowing easy, and yet will still blow at a low enough amperage so that you are not worried aobut short circuits.
kenn
good point. Always best to use as small of a fuse as possible.
15amp would be just about right, and i belive thats what most kits come with.
Even my 2 100W offroad lights on my truck only use a 20amp fuse and they work great.
12-25-05, 11:35 AM
#53
Full Member
i bought the hevy-duty harness frpm vb and noyiced a big diff. they use thr same concept of thick wires and relays and it plugs right in. still on stock harness but not a bad upgrade for 30 buck
12-25-05, 03:17 PM
#55
Full Member
there's only 3 wires that go to the headlights. So just get a test light and see which is which. Turn on your low beams and then test the wires till the test light goes on, then do the same for the hi beams
12-25-05, 06:25 PM
#56
Ran out of connectors half way damn it, small question though, do I need to do anything with the original loom ground wire to the headlights or is it irrelevant with all the other ground wires. I couldn't find anything about it in any of the schematics.
12-26-05, 01:42 AM
#57
Originally Posted by jjlrx7
i bought the hevy-duty harness frpm vb and noyiced a big diff. they use thr same concept of thick wires and relays and it plugs right in. still on stock harness but not a bad upgrade for 30 buck
Thanks.
12-26-05, 07:09 PM
#62
Full Member
Originally Posted by aussiesmg
The factory wiring loom includes hi beam/low beam/ground, we connect the hi and low to the relays but not sure what to do with the ground.
As I said before, I just tied it all into the stock wiring where possible. So my plug on the back of the klights and the grounds are all the same, as well as about 6" of the positive wire. This WILL NOT affect the brightness of the lights to any noticable degree (so long as you make sure the existing grounds have a good clean contact).
The biggest bottle neck in the stock system is having to go through to old worn out combo switch and ignition in the steering column. By eliminating this with a simple relay retaining most of the stock wiring like I've done will make an amazing difference and is much simpler to do.
12-26-05, 08:04 PM
#63
Full Member
pics
Here are some pics. kinda crappy i know. it hooks to battery, then to drivers side headlight harness. (for use of switch), has 2 inline hi/low relays. according to package it came from japan and holds 90/120 bulbs that were included but removed from package by vb i guess. one pic shows connect to battery and the other shows how it connects to head light harness.second pic is relays next to neg on batt.
Last edited by jjlrx7; 12-26-05 at 08:07 PM.
12-27-05, 11:11 AM
#64
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Originally Posted by Big_Ern
Between that and installing a 105 Amp GM CS130 alternator (direct bolt in) my lights are amazing. The stock alt is only 50 amps.... Heater fan, windows, etc all work a lot better now too
thanks
12-27-05, 11:13 PM
#67
Full Member
Originally Posted by mbaha
Did installing a GM CS130 alternator require a rewire?
thanks
thanks
Very minor rewire.
The stock alt uses 2 wires plus the big one going to the batt. The GM uses 4 wires plus the batt, but only 2 of them are needed (the others are for optional sensors on some vehicles).
Search on here for how our alts are wired (look for the thread on the S4 alternator upgrade -- it has a good diagram of the stock FB alt) asnd do a google search for CS130 wiring and just match up the correct wires. To wire it all up you can either buy a plug from the junk yard or parts store, or find some spade connectors which are the appropriate size.
I have some pictures of the mounting & wiring etc that I can post if you like.
12-28-05, 06:12 PM
#69
Full Member
You can, but once you see the difference I don't think you'll need to. Plus higher wattage bulb usually aren't legal, whether or not you'll ever get caught is another story 
12-29-05, 01:41 PM
#73
Headlight Rewiring Project
H4 Headlight Connectors (2) $7 NAPA LS6246
Bosch 30 amp relays (2) $6 Parts Express 330-070
Inline mini fuse holder (2) $5 NAPA BK 7823103
Fuses (mini) 20 amp High Beam $2.69 pack of 5 NAPA
Fuses (mini)15 amp Low Beam $2.69 pack of 5 NAPA
Red, Black, Orange 12 awg primary wire $15 NAPA
Relay socket adaptor (2) $3 Parts Express 339-075
Other need items:
Split Loom (1/4” and ½”)
Electrical tape
Heat shrink tubing
Soldering iron
Solder
Headlight Wires
Red/Yellow = Low Beam
Red/Blue = High Beam
Black = Ground
H4 Headlight Connectors (2) $7 NAPA LS6246
Bosch 30 amp relays (2) $6 Parts Express 330-070
Inline mini fuse holder (2) $5 NAPA BK 7823103
Fuses (mini) 20 amp High Beam $2.69 pack of 5 NAPA
Fuses (mini)15 amp Low Beam $2.69 pack of 5 NAPA
Red, Black, Orange 12 awg primary wire $15 NAPA
Relay socket adaptor (2) $3 Parts Express 339-075
Other need items:
Split Loom (1/4” and ½”)
Electrical tape
Heat shrink tubing
Soldering iron
Solder
Headlight Wires
Red/Yellow = Low Beam
Red/Blue = High Beam
Black = Ground
12-29-05, 01:56 PM
#74
Nice job, I added my driving lights in via a third relay but connected them to the hi beam switch wire. They now come on when I turn on my hi beams every time, if this becomes a problem I'll wire a seperate switch but why would I need driving lights without hi beam anyway. worked out great.
12-30-05, 03:42 AM
#75
Lives on the Forum
Thread Starter
Excellent work John64! Sorry to start this question, then leave everybody else to do the work... Still dealing with a death in the family. Company coming tomorrow too, so looks like I'm done for at least until after the new year. 
Aussie, you shouldn't have a problem with running your fogs like that. That's pretty much how I did mine....
Now I'd like to see someone add another relay that will let you run your brights and dims at the same time. Easy enough to do. Have you ever played around with your light stalk, to try to get it to stick between dim/bright? Sometimes you can get it just right, so you will have both on at the same time. Pretty impressive difference. Wiring this up with a relay and a switch would be pretty simple to do...
Aussie, you shouldn't have a problem with running your fogs like that. That's pretty much how I did mine....
Now I'd like to see someone add another relay that will let you run your brights and dims at the same time. Easy enough to do. Have you ever played around with your light stalk, to try to get it to stick between dim/bright? Sometimes you can get it just right, so you will have both on at the same time. Pretty impressive difference. Wiring this up with a relay and a switch would be pretty simple to do...