'82 12A Carbed, rats nest removed.

So driving home from work the car started to run funny and die.

Found my 15amp ENGINE fuse was blown. All I had to get home was a 20. Put that in. Runs fine.


Pull into the driveway and see some smoke. Pop the hood and the Air Vent Solenoid at the carb was smoking. Shut everything down. Unplug the air vent... now it still runs like poo, even with a proper 15A fuse.



According to the wiring Diagram, that fuse runs the Air Vent Noid, runs to the ECU, and runs to the Choke/Check Relay.

I did try to pull the choke out after it sat for a bit and it wouldn't stay out.

Maybe the choke/check relay is bad? I checked a while ago, these are like $70?!?




The way I have vacuum hooked up to that is as follows. One line from the center plate vent goes to a TEE.... From the tee one goes to the carb air vent, the other line goes to a PCV valve that is hooked to manifold vacuum.

If I pull the air vent connection apart the car starts and idles fine. As soon as I hooked the line back up, the idle raises and the car dies. I can't seem to feel vacuum on the carb vent nipple OR the line from the Tee.....

Is something in the carb fubar?

I'm guessing the air vent solenoid is OPEN when there is key on power? So with the noid stuck in some position unknown, when I pull the vacuum line off the noid I get the air the carb is tuned for?

 

Okay the vent noid is definitely bad.

I have two other carbs laying around... one has a single wire noid, and the other is capped off with no vent cast in the side.

The one on my running carb is a Two wire and much larger. Instead of threading in, it's held in by 3 screws one of which houses the ground from the noid itself.




Can I Bypass this thing some how? Something tells me finding one isn't going to be easy....

Still not sure about the choke... it just pulls right back in.

Dummy lights come on, so the choke/check relay seems to be functioning...

 

Ask Sterling. Maybe he will take pitty on you.

www.sterlingmetalworks.com/bymc




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Keep in mind the choke won't hold out if the engine is warm, or if the ECU THINKS it's warm; the temp sensor on the back of the water pump and it's circuitry control that.

 

Daily driving the car for over a year now I've got a decent handle on where the temp gauge is when the choke kits off... I waited till it was below that.



Does the ECU actually control the choke? Thinking about just making it manual! LOL less things to go wrong.




I read in the how to strip a nikki down, that people do take it out, and saw Sterling tell someone in another post they could cap the vent line off as long as the solenoid was hooked up.




Called Mazda today and of course it's DISCO. I guess if I have to take the carb horn off I can adjust my float levels. They sit 3/4 up in the sight glass. Maybe I can get a MPG or two.