MarkPerez

Well i got it home, now i get to clean it up. had to tow it home, but the engine turns. I even had it running for a bit. I don't hear the fuel pump working,so it's not getting fuel. there was no water in the oil. i added some oil,bleed the brakes,put a gallon of gas in it, my GS's battery, coolant, and started cranking it !!. had to spray some berrymans b12 down it's throat. and it started to run, you know, untill it burned up the berrymans. but i mean 'it started' even some oil presure too. the brake booster or the mastercylender seems to leak and the clutch pedal needs' to work' All the fluids for brakes/clutch was gone, bone dry. wierd ! This -SE has no power steering or even had power steering. I thought, maybe -SE's all have power steering ???
So the steering box's are the same as the other models ? (GS, GSL, etc ) in the non-power steering -SE's ????

thecause17

Sounds like it should be a good project.

BTW, my SE didn't come with power steering either.


And when I got mine, it was also missing all the brake fluid, but my cltuch fluid was fine....I got no leak though, I bled them, and it's been fine since.

RacerX7fb

Power steering, like leather seats, was an option

MarkPerez

So the steering box is the same as the GSL ??

LongDuck

FYI - if you're coming from GS models, the SE EFI system only runs the fuel pump when the engine is cranking or running.

There is a small connector (forget which color) by the idle mixture rheostat (purple plastic barrel) near the airflow meter that will need to be shunted to allow for fuel pump to pressurize with key in 'run' (not START!).

Once you have this connector shunted (get out your manual and be SURE which one you shunt), with the key in run, the fuel pump will be heard without the engine cranking or running - this allows you to test fuel pressure and fuel flow volume without having the engine running in a fire hazard condition.

With a new SE of untold mechanical issues, I'd spend about $300-$400 at Mazdatrix on a new fuel filter (larger, $37 for SE), new fuel injector harnesses ($14ea at Autozone), oil filter, change oil, drain radiator, replace radiator fluid and add a water wetter, change belts, radiator hoses top and bottom, replace heater hoses which tend to corrode over time, particularly under the oil filter due to oil drips from the 2-O-rings under the oil filter housing, change plugs, change plug wires, new cap and rotor, new airfilter, and top off with high octane gasoline for a couple of fillups to ensure that you're getting good ignition.

My 84SE has shown much better reliability with this preventative maintenance, and with an SE, you need to take care of it to keep it running strong. Do a search and you'll read all about 6-port cleaning, actuator verification, throttle body cleaning, A/F meter modifications, rat's nest (simplified on the SE, actually), and header/catalyst swaps.

Welcome to the club, and post "SE-" in your posts to get our attention. Those of us who have them pride ourselves on knowing a lot about them. HTH,

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

LongDuck has a lot of good points.

The only one I would change is the suggestion for high-octane. To make sure that your car's ignition fires more easily, it's recommended to use LOW OCTANE fuel in N/A rotary engines, even the 13b fuel injected ones! I'll bring up the page for it later if I can find it, but do a search. It's more commonly held that N/A motors should use low octane, since even Mazda used to bring 83 octane special "race fuel" to it's races. In a rotary engine, the spark has to propagate faster, and since Octane resists ignition (thus preventing engine knock and other problems), you want lower octane

Other than that, good job duckman!

Jon