GSL-SE TPS adjustment and error code question..
09-15-06, 06:23 PM
#1
GSL-SE TPS adjustment and error code question..
Ok, so about a week ago now I stepped up from the '85 GSL to a '85 GSL-SE..I figured I was definately upto the challange now so I jumped on the chance to pick up a nice -SE.
Anyways I have a few questions:
#1- My idle is a little weird, and from what Ive read I feel like the first step is to make a TPS tester. I have read gsl-se addicts writeup shown here:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...tps+adjustment
My question is when I make the tester do the lights share the same - at the led or +. It is proper for the lights to share the positive lead and have seperate negatives?
#2- In the same thread he shows how to check for error codes at the ECU. Im definately thinking about this idea as well, only problem is that the picture for decipher the codes isnt up there anymore, Could anyone possibly post that picture if they have it, and also the one that shows where to plug in the led as well if possible... thanks
Also, would it hurt to leave an LED plugged into the ECU at all times? I think it would be nice to wire it in, and have it tucked away somewhere for when your having issues...rather than pulling up the floor over and over. If you shouldnt leave the LED in at all times could you wire up some remote leads for your led again to save dismantling the floor?
Thanks in advance!
Anyways I have a few questions:
#1- My idle is a little weird, and from what Ive read I feel like the first step is to make a TPS tester. I have read gsl-se addicts writeup shown here:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...tps+adjustment
My question is when I make the tester do the lights share the same - at the led or +. It is proper for the lights to share the positive lead and have seperate negatives?
#2- In the same thread he shows how to check for error codes at the ECU. Im definately thinking about this idea as well, only problem is that the picture for decipher the codes isnt up there anymore, Could anyone possibly post that picture if they have it, and also the one that shows where to plug in the led as well if possible... thanks
Also, would it hurt to leave an LED plugged into the ECU at all times? I think it would be nice to wire it in, and have it tucked away somewhere for when your having issues...rather than pulling up the floor over and over. If you shouldnt leave the LED in at all times could you wire up some remote leads for your led again to save dismantling the floor?
Thanks in advance!
09-15-06, 11:27 PM
#2
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top 2 are + single - like that >>>>>>|++|
that is the negative that top 2 are + > |-|
it says >> "There will be a metal plate under the carpet the covers the ECU. This plate can be removed with a few 10mm nuts and bolts. Once this plate is removed, the ECU and related wiring can be seen. We will need to use the check connector in order to check for the error codes. This connector is located to the right of the ECU with nothing plugged into it. It has six terminals (3 on top and 3 on the bottom of the connector)." it shouldnt be all that hard 2 find and about leaving the leds in all the time i have no clue but im sure you could just wire it up 2 a switch or extend the plug so it is easier to gain access 2..i to would like a pic of the pic on how 2 decipher the codes!! if that doesnt help sry but i tried..
that is the negative that top 2 are + > |-|
it says >> "There will be a metal plate under the carpet the covers the ECU. This plate can be removed with a few 10mm nuts and bolts. Once this plate is removed, the ECU and related wiring can be seen. We will need to use the check connector in order to check for the error codes. This connector is located to the right of the ECU with nothing plugged into it. It has six terminals (3 on top and 3 on the bottom of the connector)." it shouldnt be all that hard 2 find and about leaving the leds in all the time i have no clue but im sure you could just wire it up 2 a switch or extend the plug so it is easier to gain access 2..i to would like a pic of the pic on how 2 decipher the codes!! if that doesnt help sry but i tried..
Last edited by rolfs_7; 09-15-06 at 11:34 PM.
09-16-06, 04:20 AM
#3
Hey guys,
I will put up the pic on that thread again. I knew I would eventually lose the pics as they were hosted by my old university. They stayed up for about a year past when I graduated. For the TPS, it is like rolfs_7 said. I think it is the positive of each LED that goes to each 'eye' of the connector. The 2 negative get connected together and attach to the 'mouth'. If that is backwards, just flip the connection around. You will not hurt anything if they are backwards. If you use a small light buld instead of a LED, the polarity does not matter.
I will repost the pic of the connector and the codes. I can also take some actual pics in a couple week when I get back to the US of the connections. Only 1 of the 2 LEDs shows the code, so you only need 1. I can't remember which one off hand, I will have to check. The 2nd connection is for the O2 sensor feedback. I think it is on a different scale (like 0-1v), so doesn't really work with just an LED dirrectly. I think you could make a simple circuit for the O2 one. It doesn't tell much, though. It will blink if getting O2 feedback and will just stay on or off if too rich or too lean. I believe the TPS needs to be unplugged and engine over 2,000 rpm for this test.
You can leave the LEDs connected all of the time. Perhaps tuck them into the glove box or something. One thing, though. I have seen that if you leave the LEDs plugged in, it will show the TPS error code when revving/driving. It thinks the TPS is out of adjustment because it is not longer at the idle position. That is why I say tuck it out of the way, so you won't constantly see the flashing light.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask anytime.
Kent
EDIT: Here are the pics. I will see if Jon can add them to the archived thread.
I will put up the pic on that thread again. I knew I would eventually lose the pics as they were hosted by my old university. They stayed up for about a year past when I graduated. For the TPS, it is like rolfs_7 said. I think it is the positive of each LED that goes to each 'eye' of the connector. The 2 negative get connected together and attach to the 'mouth'. If that is backwards, just flip the connection around. You will not hurt anything if they are backwards. If you use a small light buld instead of a LED, the polarity does not matter.
I will repost the pic of the connector and the codes. I can also take some actual pics in a couple week when I get back to the US of the connections. Only 1 of the 2 LEDs shows the code, so you only need 1. I can't remember which one off hand, I will have to check. The 2nd connection is for the O2 sensor feedback. I think it is on a different scale (like 0-1v), so doesn't really work with just an LED dirrectly. I think you could make a simple circuit for the O2 one. It doesn't tell much, though. It will blink if getting O2 feedback and will just stay on or off if too rich or too lean. I believe the TPS needs to be unplugged and engine over 2,000 rpm for this test.
You can leave the LEDs connected all of the time. Perhaps tuck them into the glove box or something. One thing, though. I have seen that if you leave the LEDs plugged in, it will show the TPS error code when revving/driving. It thinks the TPS is out of adjustment because it is not longer at the idle position. That is why I say tuck it out of the way, so you won't constantly see the flashing light.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask anytime.
Kent
EDIT: Here are the pics. I will see if Jon can add them to the archived thread.
Last edited by gsl-se addict; 09-16-06 at 04:29 AM.
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