cjf

iTrader: (1)

I recently cleaned the linkage on the throttle body and open the air duct ( the 4"-5" black tube) and sprayed carb cleaner in there to clean it. put it back together and now all I have is problems.. Help please!! the car starts out fine. It idles a 800 rpm as it always has. I drive the car 5 miles and the tac starts surging back and forth between 1000-1700 rpm and does not stop. ( it seems once the car is warmed up, the car starts this surge).. I can not stop it "unless" I turn off the car and restart the car. then it idles at 800 rpms ...GREAT!! but, as soon as I start driving, the surge happens again. I must have messed up something when I sprayed cleaner into the throttle body. I checked all the vacuume hoses and they are all connected. I WD-40'ed all the linkage . What gives?? I did a search and found some good ideas but maybe some one knows EXACTLY what I did wrong here...and how I can fix....Thanks for your input..I do appreciate it VERY much. Also, I cleaned the BAC with carb cleaner and put it back on , no luck...

cjf

iTrader: (1)

HELLO?? anyone got an idea??? I know someone out there has some smarts....thanks....cjf

Northern 7

iTrader: (3)

Did you recheck your TPS? After doing any cleaning or adjusting, you MUST recheck the TPS and set accordingly. With surging problems, it's quite often the TPS

cjf

iTrader: (1)

thank you , thank you , thank you for a reply...will try it. I have that "GSL-SE idle problems" information that is out there on the net, so, I am looking clsoe at that too...thanks northern 7......cfj

Mschafe

You might have got some oil or carb cleaner in your TPS. This would definetly cause the problems you are having.

FJ

A thought: as you've cleaned the linkage, the secondary valves may be sticking open which will definitely cause the surging you describe. You can play with the TPS and it won't cause a 1000-1700 rpm variation at idle. You can disconnect it and it won't cause that.
Partially open secondary valves will.

My guess? (sorry, hard to say what exactly went wrong.) The linkage maybe binding when it gets hot and the metal expands, though I'm not sure why stopping and restarting would clear the problem (even temporarily).
At idle, the secondary valves are supposed to be closed. But when you start driving, the secondary valves open and stick open, causing the surging.

You might want to use oil to lubricate the throttle shaft, not WD-40.
WD-40 cleans well, but I've found it's lubricating properties a little weak. After oiling and moving the linkage through it's range of motion, you would want to reset the TPS, once again.

I imagine you lubricated the lower shaft (for the secondary valves) on both sides of the throttle body also, not just the top one. While it is surging, you can rotate the lower shaft and see if the surging stops. I'm referring to the shaft below the TPS adjusting screw:


Spraying carb cleaner into the throttle body would not have caused a problem.

Had you removed anything? Any vacuum lines? If all you did was clean the linkage and spray cleaner into the throttle body, it has to be simply something sticking in the linkage. You'll find it.

-John.

cjf

iTrader: (1)

fj: gosh, thanks for the info.!!!!! thanks for taking the time. I think you are right, something is binding...why ??? All I did was spray carb cleaner at the throttle body and then I gets this problem.. I checked the skinny little hoses ( vacuume hoses) and all ok. I will clean it all again and use another lubricating oil (not wd-40) and see what happens.When you say use oil, what kind do you use?? I will re-lubricate all the linkage and especially the one you pictured...I know exactly where you are talking about ( thanks for photo).....I am going to do it tomorrow (saturday).....thanks again FJ!!!!!!

cjf

iTrader: (1)

thanks mschafe too,...how do "reset the tps?? just play around with it?? thansk...cjf

FJ

Cleaning the linkage and throttle body is good preventive maintenance, but it has to be well lubricated afterwards. It takes very little to cause sticking bits around the throttle body, with all kinds of dramatic results.
I mentioned above that spraying carb cleaner into the throttle body wouldn't cause a problem. It's occurred to me that may not be quite correct. Indeed it wouldn't hurt anything, but it may have rinsed out the area where the shaft goes through the body causing friction to hold the shaft partially open (even if you hadn't cleaned the linkage). In any case, lubrication may well solve it. Hopefully.

Engine oil in an oil can works just fine. I use one of the pencil type "precision" oilers as you don't need much and it keeps the mess of excess oil down.
When I've had the throttle body off for cleaning, I put a drop or two where the shafts meet the body, from the inside. It's probably a good idea to do that also, although it should be sufficient to apply it only at the outside points.

Vacuum lines: had you seen the colored version? I realize it's not related to your present problem, but it may come in handy in the future. In case you missed it:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=1388693

TPS:
With a warm engine, put the ignition on (not running though). Beside the air filter you should have a green connector. It will have three pins, two parallel to each other. Hook the ground wire of a multimeter to the pin which is not parallel to another and check for voltage to each of the other two pins. Set the TPS so that you have voltage to either one of the parallel pins, but not both. If neither has voltage, turn the screw clockwise. If both have voltage, turn the screw counter-clockwise.
You can rig a couple of bulbs with spade connectors as indicators if you like, but a meter works.

However, I don't use a meter or bulbs. When you adjust the TPS you'll hear a click at the same time as the bulbs light or go out. That's the vent and vacuum solenoids activating. If properly adjusted, you'll hear a click when you gently push on the arm that activates the TPS and another when you gently pull on it. Adjust so that the at-rest point is midway between the clicks when you push/pull. If the adjustment is near normal (as it would usually be), this works well.
(You may find, as I do, that it's better if it's adjusted slightly off center. That's fine as long as it's between clicks at rest. A little experimentation between drives is easy to do.)

-John.

ZachstylezRX7

I am experiencing somewhat similar problems only my car will surge to 3000 rpms when i start it on a cold engine and then it will die. Then i start it again and if i don't push the throttle a little bit before it dies, it will keep dieing. Is this my TPS?
BTW FJ this post should be in the archives. Your info is VERY useful. Thanks man!

Zachstylez

FJ

You're welcome.

The 3000 rpm for a few seconds when starting a cold engine is normal. You can stop it by putting it in gear for a moment.

If it runs but won't idle at all, it's not the TPS. Most likely would be a major vacuum leak. Maybe the intake gaskets or the large hoses going to the brake booster (at both ends of the hard line). Spray some carb cleaner around those and other areas while holding the rpm stable just above where it stalls and listen for a stumble or increase in rpm.

If that doesn't work, you may want to start a new thread for other ideas.

-John.

sweetege

Do you have an ACV, or an ACV block off plate?? that fixed my bros problem, and the tps helped to. If you do'nt know where it is then tell me and i'll get some pictures. I just made a block off plate out of aluminum, for his and mine, and all it is is a stupid emissions thing anyway.

gump

This pretty much goes along what FJ said, he was a big help to me a while back when I was diagnosing the same problem. http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/1stgen/man...performance.pdf

Pages 94 - 95.

take care.

Northern 7

iTrader: (3)

Responding to Zach's post, I had the same problem a few months ago. After checking every where for vac leaks, I finally found it (with the help of a friend) - turned out to be a vac leak around the injectors ( the rubber seats that seal against the housing). It's easy to check for - just run the car at idle and pour a little water around the injectors - if it stumbles, you need new seals. If that's it, replace the o-rings and grommets on the injectors while you are at it. BTW, this is a very common problem on 13b's - high heat and rubber seals on the housing means eventually they will harden up like rocks and begin to leak.

ZachstylezRX7

Thanks a lot Northern! I am going outside right now to see.

Zachstylez

ZachstylezRX7

Hm... well i just poured water around the RE EGI... manifold... and injectors and i got no response...

Zachstylez

Northern 7

iTrader: (3)

Well it was worth a shot -
I'd suggest the "GSL-SE Idle trouble shooting" article . I think someone already attached the link in this thread but it's not working. Website below:
http://members.ij.net/mrmazda/gslseidle.html

The article is very good and requires a lot of tinkering. Beware - once you start adjusting stuff you could be at it for a while, especially if you adjust what doesn't require adjusting. Just be careful and try to remember where things are set now enabling you to start from the beginning if necessary.
Off the top of my head, it may be the BAC - it's function is to supply bypass air when needed (ie; if you have the headlights / radio / vents turned on). If it's not functioning properly, your idle will drop like a rock - the article covers it. I assume you've adjusted the air bleed (idle adust screw). From there it could be throttle linkage binding. You mentioned that on a cold start the car rev's to 3k - this is good, however, it should drop back to about 1.5k for a few minutes. Since it's not, it could be the throttle plates are out of adjustment and closing to far. Also check that the fast idle cam is positioned properly - this is an easy adjustment and covered in teh article. Actually, all this is covered in the article (I'll shut up now)- just be careful when you start adjusting and good luck. BTW, the authur of the article will respond to you specific questions via e-mail (at least he did for me - thanks David)

cjf

iTrader: (1)

thanks fj ( john) ...and all you other guys...I did oil the @#@##$ out of it and the car runs fine!!! something must have been stuck open or something...I am soooo happy!!! I appreciate your help!!!!!! cjf

FJ

Good for you!

-John.