I'm 12 hours away from home trying to fix a problem with my GSL-SE running too rich...an RX-7 guy is helping some...here's what we've done so far...

1. Replaced the O2 sensor
2. Replaced the Air Temp sensor
3. Replaced the air filter
4. Replaced the air flow meter
5. Cleaned out the hoses with a shop vac
6. Replaced spark plugs, wires (not cap nor rotors)
7. Replaced fuel pump
8. Checked a couple vacuum hoses

And still it runs too rich.

Have we missed anything?

A little background...the car's been sitting for about 5 years inside a garage. The only thing it needed was a passenger side arm and a rear axle from an accident it had with a low curb. We changed that all out and we've got the engine to start...it runs fine except its running too rich...

I've got till tomorrow afternoon before I have to drive back home...PLEASE HELP!!!

 

checked the R-L screw and it was all the way rich...that I think corrected...

 

now we are checking idle prob and why the ports don't open when reving above 5k rpm...any ideas?

 

The ports need to have a load to actuate. They will not open revving in the driveway. Some suggest putting grease on the actuator rods and taking it for a hard drive. If the grease gets smeared, then you know that they are working. You can also try moving them by hand to see if they are seized up due to carbon.

Kent

 

we will try that...be right back!

 

It puzzles me to read this alot on this forum.

Ive owned 3 SEs and all of them had the actuators open while revving in the driveway..with stock exhaust or headered.

 

found out that they open from backpressure from the exhaust system...so load is not needed...in this year anyway...later years used a speed sensor to open them.

i found out that the pipe that connects to the cat is broken off...so no pressure to open them...i guess i'll be visiting racingbeat.com sooner than i anticipated.

 

They require 2.7 psi to actuate...it has nothing to do with load...if it did the air pump mod wouldn't work.

This is a good idea. Also you can pull the actuator rods out and clean them and lube them. (They will be caked in black carbon goo) (2 phillips screws and 2 10 mm nuts).

You can go with a full RB aftermarket which has the pickup, or depending on where it broke you can just buy the split air pipe from Mazda.

If you can't wait..you can do the air pump mod and it will work.

I've used both and prefer the exhaust backpressure method. The best by far is electronic as you can fine tune when they open.

As for you idle...check all the regular things on the idle FAQ site as well as your timing and clean your TB.

<F>

 

Where is teh "R-L" switch?
I am runnin too lean for some reason...

Zachstylez

 

The R-L screw is for adjusting the idle mixture only. It is located by the passenger side strut tower and is filled with black goo as it does not normally need to be adjusted.

If you feel your car is too rich or lean at idle, grab a multimeter and adjust it according to the FSM (I believe 2.5 V). However, this may not necessarily cure mixture issues at other rpms.

<F>

 

mine was set to all the way rich...the rx7 guy i know set it back to spec and the black smoke cleared up.