gsl se rebuild!
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Upton,Ma
gsl se rebuild!
so i just got in my rebuild kit from atkins today, it was a birthday gift to myself, time to get the motor out of the car and do some work. ive never rebuilt a re yet any tips you guys wanna give to me before i crack it open and start the process? car runs good as it is now but i have some junk coolant seals. so why not do the whole rebuild now? i got 112k on her and while i got the motor out i also have suspension bushings to throw in it 
. let me know what you guys think
. let me know what you guys think
Atkins DVD is 13B and not bad if you turn down the music ;P
Pineapple's excellent videos are in segments and internet view only, so its kinda useless out in the shop. I actually rigged up a spare DVD player and a small TV in my work area so I can pause/play as I rebuild.
Some thoughts:
-fr and rear shaft nuts a bee-otch to remove: i slung whole stripped block into the subie wagon and drove it to my mechanic who buzzed these bad-boyz off in seconds. I supplied the big-assed rear socket (33mm? or something like that) 'cause most mechs don't have this one. I'll do the same on re-assembly
-pineapple also sells (amongst some other very cool tools!) a little air pressure test rig that bolts to the water pump opening on your now-re-assembled block, permitting you to pressurize the block and check for air leaks thru some miss-aligned gasket into the combustion chamber. $65 but wa-a-ay cheap considering the only OTHER way to find out you goofed is once the engine is in and starting it
-Atkins vid also tells you what you need to have handy to start the rebuild
-if this car is a keeper, I'd buy as many NEW OEM fasteners as you can esp for the manifolds and exhaust. Why fight all those corroded old bits??
-again Pineapple sells COPPER heat resistant nuts especially for the exh mani and exh system. Don't cook and corrode like the OEM ones do.
'luck
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Pineapple's excellent videos are in segments and internet view only, so its kinda useless out in the shop. I actually rigged up a spare DVD player and a small TV in my work area so I can pause/play as I rebuild.
Some thoughts:
-fr and rear shaft nuts a bee-otch to remove: i slung whole stripped block into the subie wagon and drove it to my mechanic who buzzed these bad-boyz off in seconds. I supplied the big-assed rear socket (33mm? or something like that) 'cause most mechs don't have this one. I'll do the same on re-assembly
-pineapple also sells (amongst some other very cool tools!) a little air pressure test rig that bolts to the water pump opening on your now-re-assembled block, permitting you to pressurize the block and check for air leaks thru some miss-aligned gasket into the combustion chamber. $65 but wa-a-ay cheap considering the only OTHER way to find out you goofed is once the engine is in and starting it
-Atkins vid also tells you what you need to have handy to start the rebuild
-if this car is a keeper, I'd buy as many NEW OEM fasteners as you can esp for the manifolds and exhaust. Why fight all those corroded old bits??
-again Pineapple sells COPPER heat resistant nuts especially for the exh mani and exh system. Don't cook and corrode like the OEM ones do.
'luck
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
I have Mr. Turrentines video
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_video.htm
All of the ones mentioned are good. Loosen, not remove, the main front bolt first. It is easier while the flywheel is still on.
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_video.htm
All of the ones mentioned are good. Loosen, not remove, the main front bolt first. It is easier while the flywheel is still on.
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