GSL SE. I am in the process of installing my Racing Beat StreetPort exhaust. I've removed almost the entire stock exhaust system except for the stock headers. On the stock header, there is little thing that connects into it that I think is the O2 sensor. Also, do I need to remove the intake system? (I've got some PineApple Racing 5th and 6th port inserts that I still have yet to install) Is the O2 sensor necessary because I don't see a bung for it on the new header. I cant unscrew the damn thing and I want to just break it to be able to remove the top of the heat shield so that I can get at the 2 bolts on top of the header. I don't care about emissions because South Carolina doesn't test. I've already removed the Air Pump and the Air Box and some little contraption in between these two little circular systems.

 

Yep. Its the o2 sensor. Break it if you want, tear the heat shield out. None of it matters if you don't care about emissions or saving original parts. Just get the four nuts off that hold the manifold and install your header.

 

But does not having an o2 sensor cause any issues with performance or the ability to daily drive it? Because from what I've read it makes it have a rougher idle and weird acceleration

 

you can just unplug the o2 sensor, and unbolt the manifold, no need to remove the hear shields. you do want the o2 sensor in the exhaust, yours should have a bung, if not its easy to add.

 

Yeah, you probably got the carb version of the header, not the 6 port EFI version which has a bung on one of the primaries and a 6 port actuation tube on the other.

The correct one for the GSL-SE application looks like this.

Cart Price Check Part:16127-6PMOD

A little more expensive than the carb version.

 

Nitpicking here, but that's a Mazdatrix modified header for the GSL-SE. The Racing Beat kit has the six port actuator tube coming off one of the presilencers and no oxygen sensor port. RB also sells a similarly modified header with O2 bung and six port tube, but it's in the FC section.

 

So it sounds like the Mazdatrix header is the best choice, if you can't weld.

 

Do I need the O2 sensor? I thought it was just for emissions? Can I use it for a while until I can get somebody to weld a place to put the sensor?


I just bought the GSL SE streetport exhaust. No O2 sensor bung. It does have a 6 port auxiliary tube.

Here's the new header compared with old. Also, am I supposed to have a heat shield? Because I don't think the old one will work very well. Do I need to fab my own? I'm gonna put pictures of the gasket area as well.



I'm gonna just get some fine sandpaper to clean the area around the gasket and then use a torque wrench to secure the header on it.

 

I've got some exhaust wrap thats rated for 1800 degrees consistently and 2500 degrees for short periods. Is that enough so that I don't have to worry about putting a new heat shield on it?

 

You don't really NEED a heat shield, as I've run the RB header here in the AZ desert for over 10 years and never noticed any negative effects from doing so. The one time I did try and use header wrap, it quickly caused the poor quality steel of the cheap headers I originally had on the car to burn a hole through, and there are few things in the world as loud as a rotary engine with a hole in the header.

I'd leave it alone, but that's just me.

 

Ive found something incredibly strange. Now that the O2 sensor and air pump are removed the car is running much better. It idles correctly (before it would sometimes die upon startup or in the cold) and it doesn't fluctuate at all while idling. And I've got some rattle from what I think it the muffler hitting the heat shield near the back, just need to get there with a crowbar and bend that crap out of the way.

I'll post a video of it soon.

 

Heres the video of the first startup



This video is a couple of weeks old and I've found that the heat plate rattles against the pipe that goes up over the suspension and it makes an annoying rattling noise when at 1/4 throttle and above. In the picture you can see where the two pipes join into one at the top of the arc of the muffler and that siding is very flexible and it rattles when I accelerate. Is it safe just to cut away the spots that are in contact with the exhaust pipe?

 

Also, for anyone that has the exhaust on their car, what does yours sound like? I've noticed much more sweet noise from the engine but also the noise from the muffler is a little weird. Does anyone have a video of theirs? I'm planning on sticking a GoPro to the back and recording the exhaust tips and from the cockpit. The *** dyno and tire traction gauge are definitely showing much more added power. (Used to only get a chirp shifting into 2nd, now can continue the wheel spin and now there is a chirp into 3rd )

 

WalkerCaroll - If you have the cats you can sell them online and recoup some of your costs. Last time I checked the large main cat was bring about $80 and the 2 smaller precats about $40.

 

I think the online buyer place was in PA. They had a website. Just google catalytic convertor recycling , PA etc..

 

Yep, sounds just like mine when I have the header and PowerPulse presilencer and muffler in place. You have it installed correctly, or you'd be hearing the loud pulses of any leaks.

When you really get on it under load, that's when the system shines, and I'm needing to replace my presilencer as one of the mounting bolts sheared off the last time I pulled it out for emissions testing. (*I keep the stock system in a corner of the garage and swap the 'cats back into place for the day of the test, then swap back after it passes).

Anyway - sounds good, and like you - I've definitely felt the performance benefits.

 

After running it for a while, I've had time to inspect it. It seems that there is a small problem with the welding on the center section to the header and exhaust gasses are escaping. The paint is already flaking because of the heat.




There are some other small spots as well that are doing that as well.