has it smelled this way before everything was changed? does it start pretty easy? make sure your coolant temp sensor is hooked up. If you do believe that it is overly rich, the only real method would be to set up a fuel pressure gauge and check it at idle. if its too much pressure than i would check the fpr solenoid that controls the hot starts first. sometimes it can get physically stuck venting to atmosphere even though there is no voltage at it. remove the line to it and see if there is a difference. it shuld go rich when removed, if it stays the same check the solenoid by bypassing it and see if it gets any better.

Guys, I'm gonna get my service manual out an go through the "check" for idle issues in section 4B. It's all I know to do at this point.

Before I replaced the fuel pump, I'd spray ether into the intake to get it running. After the ether was gone, it went dead. I finally replaced the pump and now I'm good. I'm not sure if I "burned" something along the way though.

Following the SM diagram is the only way I know at this point to isolate the issue.

Of course, it does help to have another functional, working GSL-SE to swap parts out from the help!

jerij

So far I've cleaned the contacts in the distributor, one coil contact was corroded, and went ahead and replaced the O2 sensor (bitch to get to without removing hard components).

By the weekend I'm going to check the ignitors (if I can figure out how) and the coils too. I'm also going to remove the dynamic chamber/throttle body and see if anything died in there while that part was sitting on my basement/garage floor for 6 months.

I also picked up a spare throttle body that I had at my parents over the weekend just to make things interesting!

jerij

Joust a thought you probably already checked, but you did say that you got the 5th and 6th ports loosened up at the beginning did you check there for a vacuum leak? The seals get old and brittle and could cause a leak.

Are you referring to the seal around the stem? One was somewhat "spotty" for lack of a better word. Hard to find these now in good shape.

I also wondered if I got them on "backwards" and if that would cause an issue. (don't ask).

Either way, the previous post didn't help. I fired her up tonite....no change.

Saturday, I'm pulling the UIM, LIM, EVERYTHING, and double checking again. It's gotta be something I took off and screwed up....


jerij

Yeah thats the ones, they take a lot of heat check them out if you are not finding any other leaks that could be part of it. Good Luck

I called Ray Crowe in Virginia. The rods are NO longer available. I'm about to pick up a new LIM/ACTUATOR/RODS from a forum/EBAY seller withing the next couple of days. I'm hoping(have inquired heavily) about the shape of the rods.

I bought a set off the forum about 4 monts ago and one was "sketchy". It could definitley be leaking vacuum.

Anyone know of any "liquid" fix that could "beef" up the rubber component on these? I'm now pulling at straws, I know, but.....I'm at the point of putting a posting up of: "Come get this piece of crap outa my garage"....

jerij

Was out of pocket Saturday so I didn't get everything pulled back off. I'll finish the LIM this week sometime and start over again this coming weekend with putting it back on.

I'm going to go over everything I can with a "fine tooth comb". Which brings me to my question now:

I took off the following for whatever reason, to fix, rebuild, etc.:

Air pump
Oil metering pump (rebuild)
Cold start reservoir and motor (clean)

Any reason to even think they could contribute to the issue? I'm saying/thinking no....

jerij

A couple of more things.....

I pulled the injectors out originally and cleaned them (see YouTube). They appeared to work fine. I noticed no difference (grossly visual) between the two. I reversed the polarity and blew cleaner backwards also.

The connectors were fried, brittle and broken. I replaced them with a new set. I am positive +/- almost zero, I got the polarity right on the leads.

Would the car rev at 2K+ smoothly without both of them working properly?

I'm considering now pulling the injectors and having them professionally cleaned. Also, to double check my leads and make sure there isn't a screw-up there.

jerij

Had my injectors cleaned by FI in Georgia. Flow was 748/750. On pulse they were sticking. They got that working.

Put them in, cranked it up, hit cold idle at ~2000. Good. Got out of the car and I was flooding the garage floor with gas. Everything off, replace the broken fuel lines, everything back on.

Cranked it up......same problem.

I'm not sure if the injectors had one last "crank"/"run" in them, or something else is wrong. FIG said they were ending their life based on their pulse performance as being "weak".

The car's about to hit the junkyard....

jerij