Marek

iTrader: (2)

I rally up in Ontario. Pm me if you want some advice/info for building your FB.

91TIIRx-7

great stuff here cant wait to see more

dre_2ooo

Alright, I just picked up Mazda blue air box . Note the "barely fittingness" of the 2nd gen aluminum water pump housing and the airbox. Also notice the "Nikki carburetedness" paired with "13B" on the housings



Once concern I have is that there is definitely water in the oil (frothy dipstick). I believe (hope) this is the sole cause of that:



It's also smoking like a chimney, but I believe that's just all the seafoam still burning out. Although the coolant overflow was empty since I got it... I gotta put some coolant in there and drive it around for a while to be sure.

So, I'm gonna change the oil and route that oil filler neck hose to the intake manifold, get it insured, add coolant, do a few small things (solder some stuff, guages, maybe fix the oil leak near the rear of the engine, get the blower fan working), drive it a while, make sure it's all ok (ie. not sucking down coolant), then do the roll cage .

Kentetsu

If it turns out to be burning coolant, hit me up for an easy solution (if you haven't already read about it).

darthrotary

AWESOME! Thread subscribed! Good luck and keep us up to date with the details!

dre_2ooo

Alright, I got it running and got all the wires properly soldered, etc... The floats are 1/2 and it runs nicely.

The idle is around 1k, any if I set it any lower via the idle screw, it will stall out... I bet I can adjust the mixture though by following the instructions in the archive. My main issue right now is with the fuel pump.

The fuel pump seems to be leaking fuel.... pretty badly. I checked it out and it seems like fuel is coming out of the pump itself!! The fittings and connections seem OK and dry. When it's running, fuel is dripping from the pump.

Is it possible that the regulator (~3psi) is causing excess pressure in the pump causing it to hemorrhage fuel like that? It's a Holley "blue" pump that came with the car. Any thoughts?

Also, where is the best place to hook up a temp gauge? I bought an Aquus guage and the thread on the sensor (and adapters) is totally different than the stock sensor and the plug on the back of the water pump housing (the housing is an aluminum one from a S4).

dre_2ooo

Equus gauge.*

FunK73

iTrader: (6)

As far as your idle goes, is your engine timed properly too?

The fuel leak could be from the regulator, its possible, but would you happen to know how old the pump is?

As far as the coolant temp, that is the best place that I know of, since its right at the thermostat, you couldn't find any adapters to make the aquus sender fit?

dre_2ooo

I dunno how old the pump is... I suppose I could ask the seller.

None of the 3 supplied adapters would fit, they're all too big.

FunK73

iTrader: (6)

Id reccomend researching what the stock sender thread is and seeing if O'Reillys has the adapter before trying to find somewhere else to put it.

flight_of_pain

That "pressure regulator" there is just a flow restrictor, I have taken them off of several cars that wouldn't run correctly because of them. For a stock ported 13b with a nikki, the 12a fuel pump will be sufficient. I have 2 stock 12a pumps in parallel feeding a modded nikki on a large ported 13b and it works splendidly.


Isaac

dre_2ooo

OK I bought a new fuel pump I'll put in eventually.

I also found out the thread on the water pump housing sensor is M12x1.5, NOT M16x1.5 as is said in other threads here. I have to order an adapter online (M12x1.5 to 1/8 NPT)

dre_2ooo

Put in the new (3.5 psi) pump and it runs without any leaks! I can't wait to road test it soon and get the cage in!

FunK73

iTrader: (6)

Glad to hear those problems got resolved!

dre_2ooo

OK! After taking a LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG winter hiatus I'm back at it. I got it running again and FINALLY got tabs and insurance for it.

I took it down the road and it kind of stops trying after 2500-3000 RPMs. I did hammer it once in 2nd and it pulled to like 6k, but it doesn't seem to run right at all.. Plus, it leaves a plume of smoke when I rev it up.

Any ideas on how to get this thing tuned right? Both floats are 1/2 full and it'll idle all day at 1100 RPM. Any lower and it stalls.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

start with the basics.

1. timing? condition of plug wires? over 16ohms/foot like the FSM says, and it'll have problems

2. fuel. a bit of a grey area, but you can check pressure and volume of the pump. the grey area being you have 13b, so you want more flow, but same carb, so same psi

3. adjust idle mixture, and speed, there is a page or so in the FSM...

4. check the exhaust backpressure.

5. then start looking at the carb

FunK73

iTrader: (6)

I think its just a Minnesota thing. Since mine is having somewhat similar problems. Timing is easy to fix/check and the idle tune is easy as well. Sterling has a great little write up somewhere on here on how to do so. More or less set the idle to ~1k (screw near the throttle cable on the back of the carb), adjust the mixture screw (middle area of carb drivers side) until the engine sputters, then adjust the idle screw back up to 750ish, and repeat until you are happy.

I also noticed that you dont have any vac lines running to your dizzy in your picture up there. You'll need those to get the timing right.

darthrotary

Found a top view of the oil cooler


Looks pretty bad ***, but I agree. How much air does the cooler see there?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

less rocks!

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Did you ever fix your Lung mustard? I noticed the bad pic but no mention of getting it fixed/

1stGenJake

Sorry I'm quoting someone else, for someone else's (Jeezus') question. Not to be a jerk, but simply because I read this whole 3 page thread with nothing much to contribute

kutukutu1

iTrader: (5)

hey, my 12a was flooding the secondarys too, it would start perfect without a problem, but when i took it like highway speeds and then brought it back down to city driving it would just turn of because the secondarys would flood, i see your problem from one of the pics you posted. next to the fuel return you have a cap with a black zip tie, take that cap off, thats the bowl vent, that is probably why is not running right and also, you did not mention if you changed your fuel filter, it can cause tons of problems, trust me i went through it. great build i would like to build a rally rx7 as well, but i have to do one thing at a time, good luck to you and your build looking great

dre_2ooo

Ya I got a brand new filter, new plugs, and a new fuel pump. Which cap are you talking about? I have a lot

I did run the oil neck filler and intermediate housing lines to vacuum to stop the lung mustard.

I will tune the idle following Sterling's 10-step guide probably on Friday and then try and make sure the ignition timing is all correct.... I think mech secondaries will help me out too; I don't need the car to be smooth or anything since it'll be at WOT in high RPM's most of its life

Keeble

iTrader: (3)

the picture he's talking about has the title of Carb closeup: and it would be the white cap with black ziptie right under the fuel inlet

thatpoorguy

amazing write up man! you might look up havspeed rx7 on youtube as that was i was watching today. they were rallying an fb into the early 2000's and still making top ten finishes