1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Going to use silicone to stop oil leak

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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 02:18 PM
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n8dawg's Avatar
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From: Hot Springs, AR
Going to use silicone to stop oil leak

My 84 GSL-SE has had an ongoing leaky oil cooler from the hose fittings. My latest atempt to just put a new washer and teflon tape on the threads have failed to stop the very slow dripping that has been going on. I can drive the thing no problem and just check the oil every few days to make sure it has oil but I need it fixed. Can anyone talk me out of using some silicon adhesive around the ede of this thing to try to plug it up? I figured if it completely fails, I can always jus scrape the goo away and try something else. This thing had a crack and I got it welded which helped it tremendously, but I am tired on having this car leak even the slightest bit of oil.
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 04:21 PM
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Is it leaking in between the oil cooler and where the fitting seals to the oil cooler?

The only sealing washers that seem to work are the Factory Aluminum crush washers.
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 04:37 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
99% chance the bung on the cooler has split, they are weak, solution is either to replace with a NEW cooler ($$$$$$$) or take it out, clean it up and weld up the crack, and it helps to run a bead around the base of the bung too.

if you buy a new cooler they come with the fittings installed, and they are installed with silicon sealer on em
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 07:31 AM
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Don't waste your time. Silicone applied to the exterior like you intend will never withstand the pressure of the oil system. Pull if off and fix it right, or continue to deal with the issue until you do.

Good luck.







.
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by n8dawg
My 84 GSL-SE has had an ongoing leaky oil cooler from the hose fittings. My latest atempt to just put a new washer and teflon tape on the threads have failed to stop the very slow dripping that has been going on.
There are no parts of the oil cooler system that should have teflon tape on them at all. They are all straight thread flared fittings or straight cut threads with sealing washers.

In fact, teflon may have done more harm that good. By wrapping the fitting in tape, the thickness, even a small amount, would cause excess outward stress on the bung if the fitting you wrapped threaded into the cooler (which I assume it does as you said a new washer...). This extra thickness easily could have cracked the bung again. Even if it wasnt that fitting, the tape can prevent the flared surfaces from sealing because the threads cant engage all the way. Or, the extra torque required when tightening due to the thickness of the tape could have cracked the bung also.

I would put some UV dye in the oil and pinpoint EXACTLY where its leaking from. That should tell you if its a threaded hose connection, a crimped hose connection, a sealing washer, etc. The bungs can and do crack, but you usually cant see it with the fitting removed because it closes up again. Its easier to see with the fitting tightened into the cooler so it spreads the crack apart a little, but I still say the UV dye is a good way to pick up EXACTLY where its coming from. Clean the area, look with the light, wipe it down, look again, keep going until you pinpoint it. Mirrors are your friend for this to look around the whole fitting.

As someone else said, take the time and fix it right. You have 60 PSI in those lines at a cruise, thats twice your tire pressure. You wouldnt use silicone to stop a leak on the outside of a tire would you?

~T.J.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 12:01 PM
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Yeah......... I am a noob so I did try to just deal it before I read all the responses. I had this thing welded already and the guy siad that he was positive that it had been welded before. I uess that it just has too much stress and that it cant hold anymore. SIGH. I guess I will scrape the locktight off and try to find a used one that works.
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