well after futher inspecting the new SE that i got, i smellelt a fuel oder in the radiator, i flushed the system bc the coolant was rust colored and still after i am still smelling the fuel in the coolant. and what sucks even more i noticed that the radiator drain plug wasnt in all the way so i started to tighten it down and snaped it off in the radiator so im going to have to pull that. so back to what i was saying what can be the cause of that gas smell.

i turn the motor over by hand and there is NO coolant coming out of the rotor housing through the spark plug holes even after sitting for a while at least that is on the number 1 housing i haven chked the number 2 housing.

this in a EFI so there is no coolant running through the manifold where it meets the housing.

 

Start the engine up, radiator cap off, look for bubbles in the cooling system.

 

I installed a Prestone plastic tee from their $6 flush kit in the hose coming out of the block on the driverside. That allows me to hook a garden hose there and reverse flush the system, allowing the coolant to come out the top of the radiator neck with the cap off.

 

yeah theres bubbles!

another thing that i notice is that when i start it up and give it gas to drive i hear what sounds like water from my dash,im thinking the sound is from my heater core. im also hearing it when im done driving and shutting down. im also not getting much heat

 

im going to have to do that bc im going to try and do the coolant seal trick on thursday.

 

i ran the block seal through the engine tonight for about 45 minutes drained it around 8 pm so i ll rinse it tomorrow night and see how everything goes i bypassed the heater core and we'll how that goes too.

 

I wish you the best in sealing the leak, you do have a blown coolant seal. The sound you're hearing is extra air, read combustion gases, in the cooling system. You're low coolant buzzer and light should have gone off. If not, test it and make sure it's in working order.

 

yeah i was getting low coolant buzzer. so that water squshing around water was combbustion gasses?hmmm! i ran the block seal one more time today just to be safe and when i started it up this morning i got a small poof of smoke and just a lil smoke while it was warming up which im thinking is normal since is was still a lil chilly out.

 

that sux, im guessing that the smoke was white(burning coolant). good luck sealing the leak.

 

do they still sell CRC block weld at pepboys bc i havent been able to find anywhere else. the block seal seems to be working i ran the engine with only adding water and everything seems to be working well im running with only water so that coolant doesnt get all goopy. im going to drain the water out and put coolant in tomorrow.

 

If you degreased the innards of the cooling system well and applied CRC Colloidally Suspended copper block weld properly it should hold for 1-2 years or even longer.

The mass of the rotary engine is so low that it overheats quickly and it can happen to even the most careful driver. I'd like to install a buzzer alert for when the coolant temp goes over, say, 190.

 

i did the block seal from the same company i dont think its holding up as well im going to block weld this weekend and see what happens

heres the link for crc http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/

 

The trick is to clean out the innards well with degreaser and then flush well. Also, when applying the colloidally suspended copper, don't rev the engine so as to breach any forming seals. And observe the requisite heat cycles.

 

when i drained the water from the radiator last night b4 i start the degrease was it felt like the was water softener almost if you catch my drift so im going to rinse as many times as needed.

question bliffle what do you mean by "And observe the requisite heat cycles"

 

The CRC stuff is available at Kragens.

After the innards are thoroughly degreased and rinsed and the engine is cool, fillup the system with clean water and 1 or 2 bottles of the CRC colloidally suspended copper stuff, start the engine and let it run at idle for 15-30 minutes so it is hot. Do not rev. Shut off engine and let it cool off for a couple hours. Start engine and let it idle, again, for 15-30 minutes. Let engine cool down. After that you should be able to let the car sit overnight and when you start it in the morning there should be no white smoke. If there is, add another bottle of stuff and repeat the cycle.

I can't remember if i do this last process with the radcap on or off, but I think I did it with the radcap off so as to prevent cooling system pressure from forcing fluid through the leaks. But maybe that would be a Good Thing. Or maybe a cycle each way would be good.

It doesn't seem to matter whether you change the water after The Treatment, so I usually run a couple days before draining out some water (by unscrewing the cap on the Prestone tee) and adding some coolant.

 

i got some this morning thank you! one more question is it best to do this with or without the t-stat.

 

i ran it with the t-stat. i finished about 30 minutes ago and there is still pressure in the upper radiator hose which is better than b4 so i think that i got it fixed but i will know soon!

 

just get a gasgeet kit for it , it will be cheaper then half assing it in the long run

 

CRC worked for me for only a short time. The copper bits destroyed my water pump in short order and clogged some passages in the radiator and had to get it rodded out.

What you need is ceramic block seal. http://www.irontite.com/adds.htm Irontite is the way to go! It's delayed my would have been engine swap for over four years.

 

it needs more than just a gasket kit it would need a soft seal set and that is if everything internal is in good shape im going to get this going and then rebuild my other SE engine and do my porting that i want to do in the engine that is not in the car so that i have a Rex to drive in the mean time and once im finished with that then i will rebuild and have this one for smog time and such! i havent got the car smogged yet so im trying to get thigns right!

 

well i think that it is fixed, i ran block weld and let it sit for a couple of days while i went to LA i drove the car to work this morning and let it sit for the whole day (8:30- 7:30)and when i opened the radiator cap i heard the "woosh sound" but my overflow tank was still full. im using a temp one that i have just sitting in the engine bay bc i didnt want go through the trouble of cleaning out that on top of the engine.
im thinking that it might have gottin to a slower leak but not sure. any i deas why the water wouldnt go back in to the radiator from the over flow?

 

Is the white exhaust smoke gone? Can you run several days without topping up coolant?

 

well i sitll dont have coolant in there bc i dont wanna go through cleaning it again. i drove it this morning and didnt get a light so we will see on topping it off. the thing is when i drove it saterday night the water sucked back into the radiator, its just yesterday when i chked it after work it didnt.

is far as the smoke i cant get out of my car fast enough for that i will have my wife start it for me and i ll stand behind it, there is a lil smoke after start up but i cant tell what color it is.

 

If the car sat all day and the cooling system still had pressure, I'd say it's fixed for now. The overflow coolant cannot return to the cooling system until it has cooled fully and develops less than atmospheric pressure to draw the overflow back in.

 

It's fixed. Congratulations.

Now, pretty soon, you want to drain the stuff out (that $6 Prestone tee makes it easy), and add proper coolant, or maybe Water Wetter, the idea being to get some lube to the water pump bearing before it wears out from the application of degreaser! It sometimes happens, as a couple guys have reported and has happened to me once, so you want to protect that water pump. It takes a couple hours to replace but is pretty cheap (IIRC $50 from rockauto.com) but you can invent new problems by rotating the Main pulley 90 degrees or some such foolishness. Just keep your head and be careful.

Oh yeah, replace all those crappy wire hose clamps with proper hose clamps, and replace the heater hose that goes from the firewall back to the engine. Otherwise, you'll be sorry.