Snapshot

They say you can't use ordinary vinyl floor covering because any drip will dissolve the vinyl. What have you used that is durable, etc. I’m looking for something marble-like for my new garage.

drippa

u could have your cement scored\ burned with acid to make it look like tile... then i'm sure you could find some kinda clear sealer to put over it to make it last longer... here is a place that does it http://www.johnscement.com/acid.htm that's not anywhere close to you... but you'll get the idea and u can look for someone closer to you that does the same stuff

-seth

renagade_rotary

kiwi tile

John64

I used the Rustolium Epoxy floor kit. For single garage a kit is like $45. Oh, you can get it at Home Depot.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Never heard of that stuff. What is it?

There are some pretty decent garage floor epoxies, some even have color chips you sow onto before it sets up.

I had VCT over the wood floor in my shop, got tired of cleaning it all the time, laid 1/8" aluminum tead plate over it. Could have bought a full rebuild kit, with apex seals and had money left over, for what the treadplate ran.

You could try finding some original battleship linoleum. It should be fairly chemical resistant, but you will need to keep it waxed and watch out for sharp objects, i.e. jackstands. Your concrete will need to super smooth, flat and not draw any moisture for any soft goods floor covering to last.

Tsi_Xtreme

go to sears and craftsman has a snap together title system for garages. They also come in different colors so you could mix match to get that checker look.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...te=CRAFT&cs=e1

DAVID GRIMES

Sherwin Williams has a made-for-concrete pigmented stain for 20something a gallon. ( Also comes in 5 gallon buckets ). I use it on porches, pool decks and garages. It come in several colors and also can have grip additive mixed into it so you won't bust your *** on slick concrete.

Alex-7

Black & white tile that fluid can drain through, they snap togeather so they can be remeved for cleaning and what not.

My dads got Kiwi tile in his garage, he really likes it.

Rx7carl

I did mine with the Home Depot stuff. It didnt stick well at all. But thats probably my fault as they didnt have the primer your supposed to use, and being short on time I skipped that part. I did etch and clean it really good though.

On the tile. BS. Theres an old thread with pics around. They look really cool. Heres what I found searching. The one I was looking for cant be found.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=196226

renagade_rotary

they come in all different collors

g17-jimmy

http://www.ucoatit.com/
$$$

DAVID GRIMES

On the Sherwin Williams product: ( Sherwin Williams has a made-for-concrete pigmented stain for 20something a gallon. ( Also comes in 5 gallon buckets ). I use it on porches, pool decks and garages. It come in several colors and also can have grip additive mixed into it so you won't bust your *** on slick concrete. )

H&C® Concrete Silicone Acrylic Sealer VOC Bombay
Is an opaque waterproofing sealer that bonds with concrete or masonry surfaces to provide a long-lasting, hard, decorative finish. Will Not Peel, Flake or Fade - Long Lasting Finish - Resists Oil, Gasoline, Water and UV Rays - Resists Hot Tire Pick-Up.

For price, aesthetics, and application... I swear this is the **** you need.

Snapshot

Hey, Dave: Can it be made to look like marble? I trust you.

DAVID GRIMES

No, this material wouldn't be the thing to get a faux marble look with. This only comes in white, sand, red, greys, black, Khaki green, khaki blue, etc.

If I were going for the marble look in a garage... if looks AND durability were both high priority AND I would spend to get exactly what fits that tall order, then I would go with a chemical stain and urethane top finish.

I bet there are companies in your area that do this ( and other types ) of concrete finishing.

Chemical stains are various combinations of metallic salts in water based solutions that are slightly acidic. The stains lightly etch and penetrate "bare" new or existing concrete and chemically form permanent insoluble colored precipitates that remain in the concrete's pores. These stains may also be used to treat other cementitious materials such as terrazzo, self leveling, gunite, shotcrete, stucco, cement plaster, natural stone, etc. Chemical stains produce a variegated patina look similar to the patination of bronze or the natural oxidation of copper. There are no pigments in chemical stains. This is not a paint or coating so it will not chip, crack, or peel. Chemical stains do not "cover up, but rather work in conjunction with the color tones of the substrate. A variegated finish, including broad drifts in color, is not considered a defect, but is the reason this method of concrete coloration is chosen. This is an "old world" method most popular around the turn of the 19th century. There are eight standard stains available, which may be diluted or applied over one another to expand the palette for modifications. On new projects, concrete may also be colored using color hardener or integral color, which will further expand the stain palette. Concrete scoring can further decorate the surface by cutting designs into the surface of the sub straight.

For interior slabs, three primary types of sealers are used: acrylics, urethanes, and epoxies. Acrylics are UV stable, inexpensive, and easy to apply or reapply, as necessary. But they have the softest surface of the three and require the most maintenance. Solvent-based acrylic sealers are softer than water-based products. They also provide a wet look that greatly enhances the appearance of colored finishes.

Epoxy sealers are much harder than acrylics. Water-based epoxies bond well to concrete and provide a clear finish, but they are nonporous and do not allow trapped moisture to escape. Epoxies are probably the best choice for concrete countertops and food-preparation areas. They are not very UV-resistant, and reapplication involves more elaborate preparation than for acrylics.

Urethane sealers, though the most costly, provide the most abrasive-resistant finish. They have good UV resistance but reapplication is expensive

CarlRx7

i used the epoxy coating with the blue and white chips and a can of sand additive for an anti skid. dont even think about skooting on your back or it will rip off your skin!.

but it looks nice and the oil just wipes right off.

carl.

mustang85GT

hey, maybe call up those rhino lining people, you know the guys that do truck beds, maybe they'll do your floor? haha. they say it last forever.

John64

Carl, I did mine without the sand. The floor gets slippery when its wet. Looks like I made a good decission not to add the sand if it is that harsh!

DAVID GRIMES

I would suggest using a product called H&C Shark Grip that is used 16 oz. per gallon. It, too is a Sherwin-Williams product. It is smaller than sand, less abrasive, uniform in size and is simply added to whatever paint you are using. It is non-slip, yet not rough and uncomfortable to your feet ( or back for that matter ).

No, I don't work for Sherwin-Williams. As a matter of fact, in building houses I use more Porter, Dulux, and Ralph Lauren than SW products, but their concrete finish stuff kicks ***.

BinaryRotary

Por-15. 3 different colors and harder than powder coat.