Can the fuel tank level sender be accessed from the inside of the car so you dont have to drop the tank to replace it?

 

No. It sits on top of the front left corner of the tank. I don't believe there is any kind of access panel.

Sorry,
Brian

 

You can gain access to the connector and wiring, and the screwes that hold it in the tank by removing the black platic panel behind the driver side rear wheel well, but to replace it..... the tanks gotta come down

 

crap. Thats what I was afraid of. Come on somebody tell me that there was a limited access pannell that only came out on the 85 gs....

Yeah wishfull thinking. So how long do you guys think it would take me to replace the sender?

 

NOOOOOO!!!!! Don't go pulling the tank!!! I've been "dealing" with my sender for a while now (trying to get it to work with a Auto Meter gauge meant for a GM sender (no I didn't get it to be very accurate so now I'm trying to bond the mounting for the mazda sender to a GM sender I had lying around but forgot about origanily)) Anyway with all that being said, you do have to remove the afore mentioned access panel, very easy just jack up the car, take the wheel off and take the panel out. Then you have ready access to the six screws and connector that mounts to the tank. Mazda did design it so you CAN get the sender out without droping the tank, I've lost count of how many times I had to take the sender out. Now (with the access panel still removed) can get the sender out by only jacking up the car a little to have engnofh (sp) room for my arm to fit inbetween the wheel and the wheel well.

In short you DO NOT have to drop the tank.

 

ROTOR VS. PISTON IS A GOD. And you all wanted me to drop the tank! Anyway, is the pannel your talking about the plastic lining of the wheel well? Or someting inside the car?

 

The panel is just a piece of plastic, I think it has two or three bolts holding it in. Guess what size the bolts are, yep 10mm. You tear down a 7 with a 10mm socket and a phillips screw driver.

 

and a 12, 14 and 17.... but close enough

 

There are 6 or 8 small screws on the "round" sender base that interfaces with the tank.

They are a BITCH to remove. If yours are rusted, you will HAVE to pull the tank.

Good luck.

jerij

 

You are picking my lottery numbers from now on if you get it out without movin the tank!!! :p

 

Dropping the tank ain't a big deal - two bolts from the straps, undo the hoses, and that's it (unless I'm misremembering from doing it 3 times). You need a floor jack to hold the tank up, and it's best if there's not too much gas in the tank.

 

Well, the thing that kills me is I had to put the current tank in. The tank was from a GSL-SE, and I needed it because of the larger fuel lines, for the GSL-SE fuel pump. I got the tank out of a junkyard, and the screws were missing off of the fuel level sender. So I transfered the screws from my old tank onto my new one. So getting it off wont be a problem.

I just remember that putting the tank back in was a MAJOR pain in the ***. The car was even on a lift for christ sakes... So I'm gonna go ahead and order the new sender when I get to work tomorrow, and I'll try putting it in in a few days.

Gump, I should have your lottery numbers by the end of the week.

 

hornbm

where can i get the sending unit i need one for my 85 GSL?

 

well I work for mazda, so parts for me are rather easy to come by....

 

NO WAIT ! ! !

Just remember the position of the sneder before you pull it.

I pulled mine out because the tank was rusted and putting it back in I noticed that it obiously goes in with the float down. So I did that...then I try to match up the holes to screw it back it...and there are about two different positions that the holes will match up! Not remembering the position of it i said **** it and just put it in.

Then sender didnt work well to begin with but no it either reads full when I have 5gal + or empty if I have less, oh and the light dosent come on.

I would mark it with that paint marker they use for screws, nuts and bolts and stuff to toqure it properly.

I would mark it near the plug for the sender.

Hope you got to this in time.


-Ryan

 

Yea when i bought my car the guy put in a used tank and sending unit and it leaking gas like a siv. Took it down and found 4 of the 6 screws were snapped off and only 2 were holding it in place so it was leaking all over. I Sealed and JB Welded it in place and it still leaks, pisses me off. Also my fuel guage moves around about a 1/4 of a tank back and forth depending on if im moving on an incline etc. Also i throw in about 7 gallons and it shows full. I think i might have put in my sending unit cockeyed. Looks like im gonna be pulling it down again. and not full of gas.

 

Now this I would be interested in. The stock gauges are long gone in my racecar. I still have the stock sending unit and wires hooked up to the tank. I need to know how much fuel is in the tank before a race and after I fill it with approx 8 gallons.

If it'll work with an Autometer Gauge then that would be fantastic but it looks like it might not be doable.

Does the factory Shop manual have an ohm table of what's full, 1/2, and empty? That could be helpful.

-bp-

 

e=103-117
1/2=28.5-36.5
f=1-5
above figures are ohms per shop manual