OTT

iTrader: (1)

Who has ran bigger fuel lines on there fb. I have a inline walbro 255 with a mallory 3-port regulater and its at like 18 psi when its turned all the way down. this was possible using my old pump and the current regulator. I put the 255 on, and it wont go below 18. I need it at 4. I think the reason for the high pressure is the tiny return line. If I run 3/8 return and supply line it should drop, right? I'm doing a blow though turbo, thats why i'm doing the hefty fuel system.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Are you still using the stock return line off of the carb? It has a restrictor in it. It it is still present, just replace the entire rubber hose.

FB II

yea, i use an msd fuel injection pump. i have a steady 3psi when needed. you WILL DEFINATELY have to put on a bigger return line. that's pretty much the only way.

OTT

iTrader: (1)

Is 3/8 ok.

steve84GS TII

Just get another 1st gen feed line from a wrecking yard to use as a return line, and run it alongside the feed line.It fits perfectly and has fed my EFI TII setup for years.

perfect_circle

i have the same pump, and im in the process of wiring it up, but my pump has no juice, could you post pics of how you did yours?

P.S. what kind ofa current regulator are you using?

OTT

iTrader: (1)

I used the wiring for the stock pump. It's working fine. I am using the Mallory 3-port regulator, Its relatively cheap and it works great. Rotary Shack has a picture of it on their web site.

OTT

iTrader: (1)

Did you use the stock inlet on the gas tank for the return line? I didn't know if the tiny stock inlet on the return would be to restrictive.

13B4port

heres an easy solution for you. go to radio shack and buy a voltage regulator fo DC. it'll have 2 connectors and a *** on it. the *** adjusts the voltage to the pump and in so adjusting the speed the pump spins and in so adjusting the psi. total cost is about $3. good luck to ya.

perfect_circle

thats what i thought he meant when he said current regulator. thats what im gonna do once i gte powerto my pump.

...until i go turbo

capri93

Be care full the pump is made to run at 11-14 volt ( normal operational auto voltage) An cutting voltage on a motor not made to do so can cause damage.

steve84GS TII

Oh yea,forgot about the small nipple on the tank.Having a bigger line is pointless if it necks down at the tank.Im running a 2nd gen in-tank pump assembly, so I switched out everything from my 1st gen tank,sorry.

OTT

iTrader: (1)

What do you mean by switched everything. Did you switch tanks or did you cut a hole in the 1st gen tank to put the pump in?

OTT

iTrader: (1)

If you did that you would have a problem with volume.

13B4port

no there would be no volume problems. the trouble would be voltage drop and amps going way up. to give an example. lets say you have a microwave and it has 10 ft of cord on it to the wall outlet. in the design there is a certian amount of voltage drop and amp raise in the line because.....(here comes the science) when you have any wire, as the wire gets larger the resistance rating of that wire goes up. resistance going up causes less voltage to be able to flow through and also causes more amps to be drawn through that same wire. the more apms you draw the more heat you produce. the more heat, the more resistance. and theres an endless cycle. back the the microwave and the 10ft cord. most wall outlets are on a 10 - 15 amp rating. lets say for nore the mircowave draws 5 amps. well if you put that on a longer cord you end up with more wire and more resistance and more heat and higher amp draw. you can even get enough cord to double the ammount of amps the microwave draws. so when they say don't use long long extension cords, no you know why. how does this apply to his fuel pump??? well if you put on the voltage regulator and drop the volts, the amps will go up. so be carefull. it can be done but i wouldn't drop the voltage much below 9 volts. also for wiring this up, use 12 gauge wire with a really thick insulation. also before you install it, test the circuit out and make sure there isn't any heat issues as that can be big as it will melt the insulation off and cause you to ground out your fuel pump. i used 12 gauge power wire. DO NO USE 12 GAUGE SPEAKER WIRE!!! there is a difference in the way the wire is spun, speaker wire is designed to help with interference and noise on the line and has a lot of smaller wires spun into a larger wire which is spun into your speaker wire. this wire gets hot quick. power wire uses much larger strands and is designed to move power. hope all this info helps.

perfect_circle

thanks for that usefull tidbit of informaion.

steve84GS TII

Steve-OOH,I swapped the FC fuel pump assembely into my FB tank.Its the only way to go when you install an EFI engine into a non-SE 1st gen.The FC holder/pump is exactly the same height as the FB tank, at the stock hole for the pipes.I cut the hole out to match the FC holder,and had the FC slosh baffle and pump mounting ring welded to the tank.I would have welded it myself,but the metal is thin and I didnt want to risk it,cost me about 175 bucks.This setup is quiet,simple,protected,free from slosh/starvation problems and it exactly duplicates the stock FC fuel system for TII conversion guys,or anyone else looking to go EFI.And best of all,an upgrade is easy since TII,Cosmo,FD,SupraTT and other pumps are direct drop-in's.I went with the SupraTT,its good for 400HP.