fuel leak?
04-24-04, 10:08 PM
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fuel leak?
I have a rx7 85 gslse, just got her running again and passed inspection. But i notice that when i turn it on i smell gass, and also when i drive. And i go through fuel rather fast, but i do not see any leakage. any guesses?
04-25-04, 12:28 PM
#2
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Fuel injector(s), fuel rail, and/or fuel injector top and bottom seals.
This is a very common leak area, and if you're smelling fuel when you're driving, it's likely coming up from under the intake manifold, through the gap in your hood right in front of your interior air intake vents. This gets drawn into the cabin through your side vents and that's why you're smelling it.
You should get this fixed as quickly as possible, since the fuel is leaking down onto the top of the lower intake manifold and when the leak gets bad enough, will overflow these 'troughs' and run down onto the exhaust manifold - a VERY bad thing. This is a fairly simple fix, but you'll want to get your parts together ahead of time. Having replacement upper to lower intake manifold gasket would be a good idea, too. I would suggest the following;
1) Go to local parts shop and get 4 feet of FUEL INJECTION HOSE - and it MUST say 'fuel injection' - regular carb fuel hose is not built for 45psi EFI pressures, so get the right kind from the start. You will be using this in later steps, below. While there, pick up two sets of Borg-Warner Fuel Injector Seal Kits for the car - these are only about $7 each and will reseal the upper and lower injector mounts.
2) When you get home, get out a 10mm socket, a 12mm socket, and a 14mm socket - box-ends may work fine in some instances, and a couple of standard blade screwdrivers (for heater hose clamps).
3) Remove the Cruise Control cable by taking off it's little metal clip, lay this aside.
4) Remove the 1x10mm Alternator Ground (be careful, it's plastic), the 2x10mm 'rats nest' bracket on the driver's side of the DEI chamber, and the coolant hoses at the back of the waterpump and the back of the Thermowax pellet going back to the block.
5) Remove 5x12mm bolts and nuts that attach the upper and lower intake manifolds. Be careful loosening the manifolds and you might be able to save your gasket - if not, replace it; it will be a source of vacuum leaks that will have you posting back here in frustration inside of 4 hours of job completion.
6) Remove all of the vacuum tubes leading to the DEI, these are formed, so you can just twist them out of the way.
7) Lift off the DEI/Upper Intake/etc. and slide this over to the driver's side of the car (throttle cable will still be attached).
8) See 2x14mm bolts that hold the fuel rail in place - remove these, along with the 2 fuel injection line hose clamps (feed and return) and the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Cut to length and replace these hoses as a measure of good faith. Better to know that they're new than to try and trust old parts - same thing with the feed and return at the firewall to the 'rats-nest'.
9) As you remove the fuel rail, you'll notice the rubber O-rings that function as injector 'seals' at the top and bottom of the fuel injectors (2) - there are rubber caps in the center housing that will also be replaced with parts from your kits. At this time, inspect the injectors for any leaks or any paint missing from them - this indicates an injector leak from the body, not due to seals, and will require a replacement injector.
10) On the fuel rail, check for leaks around the FPR and the Pulsation Dampner (PD) - if leaking, reseal or replace. Replace any fuel tubing which appears to be frayed, corroded, or cracked - this could also be the source of a leak.
As they say; installation is the reverse of removal.
After you get the injectors sealed with the fuel rail bolted down, go to your airbox assembly at the passenger front corner, and look for the green connector - this is the 'fuel pressure' shunt connector. It should have 2-poles. When you have the ignition keys in 'running' position, and a wire across these 2 poles, it will run your fuel pump without the engine turning to help you look (and listen) for leaks. Do this now, before you install the upper intake system, or you could still have a leak and not know from where.
Yaknow - just thinking just now, if you did the 'shunt' test before Step #1, you'll have a better idea of what's leaking before you just dig into it. Might we worth the effort...
Anyway - get into the job and it's not as hard as you'd think. I can get to the injector rail in about 10-15 minutes now that I know how - can do an entire injector swap in 30-45 minutes, tops. It's not difficult, just a little tedious. That tip above about leak-testing is time-proven. I learned that the hard way. HTH, and post back if questions,
This is a very common leak area, and if you're smelling fuel when you're driving, it's likely coming up from under the intake manifold, through the gap in your hood right in front of your interior air intake vents. This gets drawn into the cabin through your side vents and that's why you're smelling it.
You should get this fixed as quickly as possible, since the fuel is leaking down onto the top of the lower intake manifold and when the leak gets bad enough, will overflow these 'troughs' and run down onto the exhaust manifold - a VERY bad thing. This is a fairly simple fix, but you'll want to get your parts together ahead of time. Having replacement upper to lower intake manifold gasket would be a good idea, too. I would suggest the following;
1) Go to local parts shop and get 4 feet of FUEL INJECTION HOSE - and it MUST say 'fuel injection' - regular carb fuel hose is not built for 45psi EFI pressures, so get the right kind from the start. You will be using this in later steps, below. While there, pick up two sets of Borg-Warner Fuel Injector Seal Kits for the car - these are only about $7 each and will reseal the upper and lower injector mounts.
2) When you get home, get out a 10mm socket, a 12mm socket, and a 14mm socket - box-ends may work fine in some instances, and a couple of standard blade screwdrivers (for heater hose clamps).
3) Remove the Cruise Control cable by taking off it's little metal clip, lay this aside.
4) Remove the 1x10mm Alternator Ground (be careful, it's plastic), the 2x10mm 'rats nest' bracket on the driver's side of the DEI chamber, and the coolant hoses at the back of the waterpump and the back of the Thermowax pellet going back to the block.
5) Remove 5x12mm bolts and nuts that attach the upper and lower intake manifolds. Be careful loosening the manifolds and you might be able to save your gasket - if not, replace it; it will be a source of vacuum leaks that will have you posting back here in frustration inside of 4 hours of job completion.
6) Remove all of the vacuum tubes leading to the DEI, these are formed, so you can just twist them out of the way.
7) Lift off the DEI/Upper Intake/etc. and slide this over to the driver's side of the car (throttle cable will still be attached).
8) See 2x14mm bolts that hold the fuel rail in place - remove these, along with the 2 fuel injection line hose clamps (feed and return) and the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Cut to length and replace these hoses as a measure of good faith. Better to know that they're new than to try and trust old parts - same thing with the feed and return at the firewall to the 'rats-nest'.
9) As you remove the fuel rail, you'll notice the rubber O-rings that function as injector 'seals' at the top and bottom of the fuel injectors (2) - there are rubber caps in the center housing that will also be replaced with parts from your kits. At this time, inspect the injectors for any leaks or any paint missing from them - this indicates an injector leak from the body, not due to seals, and will require a replacement injector.
10) On the fuel rail, check for leaks around the FPR and the Pulsation Dampner (PD) - if leaking, reseal or replace. Replace any fuel tubing which appears to be frayed, corroded, or cracked - this could also be the source of a leak.
As they say; installation is the reverse of removal.
After you get the injectors sealed with the fuel rail bolted down, go to your airbox assembly at the passenger front corner, and look for the green connector - this is the 'fuel pressure' shunt connector. It should have 2-poles. When you have the ignition keys in 'running' position, and a wire across these 2 poles, it will run your fuel pump without the engine turning to help you look (and listen) for leaks. Do this now, before you install the upper intake system, or you could still have a leak and not know from where.
Yaknow - just thinking just now, if you did the 'shunt' test before Step #1, you'll have a better idea of what's leaking before you just dig into it. Might we worth the effort...
Anyway - get into the job and it's not as hard as you'd think. I can get to the injector rail in about 10-15 minutes now that I know how - can do an entire injector swap in 30-45 minutes, tops. It's not difficult, just a little tedious. That tip above about leak-testing is time-proven. I learned that the hard way. HTH, and post back if questions,
Last edited by LongDuck; 04-25-04 at 12:31 PM.
05-25-04, 02:29 PM
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I tried to pm so i will just put it on here,I just want to say thanks alot for the help you gave me with the fuel leak. Sorry it took me soo long to reply, i havent had time to fix it because i have been in mexico the whole time. I get back on the 25 and on the 26th that is what i will be doing. Thanks soo much again and well, wish there was more than just my words. I am one that likes to help aswell, thats why i am down here right now. Helping poverty in this one community and building relations. But any who, thanks again!!
07-23-06, 10:29 AM
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Thanks....
LongDuck .. THANKS for the detailed procedure.. I have an 84 GSLSE that's leaking onto the top og the engine... coming from the cluster of clear fuel hoses under the intake..... car only has 44K on it... but it is 22 yr old fuel line ... i will get out there and check it out ... THANKS again !!!! 
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