nevarmore

I went to put on the catch for the secondary return spring. Its the rod that comes out when the gas is pressed and has a T-catch on the end that hooks onto a lever which is attached to a spring on the rear right side of the carburetor. Pictures will be up shortly.

After putting it on the car was hard to start and had an odd idle and vibration. I chalked it up to the cooling weather and ran some errands. The car was very hard to start warm when I went to come back home so I uhooked the return spring and it started up, but still had the odd idle.

I got home and decided that it wasn't acting up before so I should probably take the thing off again. Thanks to my friend Mr. Loctite I had to grab the shaft with a pair of pliers to get in there and get the T piece and its jamnut off. In the process I broke the shaft.

Again the car was hard to start and when it did the engine raced up to 5500rpm before I shut it down.

What part did I break? I have a replacement for it, but I doubt I'll be able to get to it w/o taking the carburetor off. Is there something else I may have bumped that would cause the engine to race??

If anyone around Akron or Cleveland could come out to help sort this out I would make it worth your while. At this point I'm thinking of having her towed down to Cascade Mazda and letting the pros **** around with this goddamned overcomplicated Nikki.

nevarmore

Images:
What the overall situation is: http://www.trackaddicts.net/images/p...on/overall.JPG

What broke, the little T bit is what i was trying to install: http://www.trackaddicts.net/images/p...on/whtbrok.JPG

Another view: http://www.trackaddicts.net/images/public/jon/shaft.JPG

cdrad51

So what's your question? I don't get it. Replace the rod, live happily ever after. Anything else?

P.S. Daumn your dashpot is rusty.

Tom

I can't recall off the top of my head, but what attaches the linkage to the carb (the part that still attached to the carb, that is)
I'm thinking maybe you can simply take that piece off, go to the hardware store and get some allthread of the same diameter, screw back on 'T' piece, install the spring and collar and reinstall it on the carb?

nevarmore

What I'd like to know is is my engine racing is caused by the piece I broke or if I knocked into something else while working around there.

Thanks for responding. I really appreciate the help.

Tom

Well- If I'm not mistaken that is the throttle return spring, in which case the throttle will remain at 'open' and not close properly.
You may be able to jerry-rig what is left on the car (in a pinch). Maybe you can drill a small hole in the shaft that is still connected, run the spring end through the hole and attach the other end of the spring to the linkage where the 'T' used to sit through.

It might hold it until you can get some all-thread and make another linkage shaft.

partsguy74

I'd be willing to make a trip if the timing is right.. PM me or AIM me...

nevarmore

Nevermind, call off the assault.

There was a vaccuum line caught in the linkage.

I am a dumbass, thank you for your time and consideration.

Tom

OK, now I'm confused- is that not part of the throttle return mechanism? I mean- the linkage is still broke, right?

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

IIRC that rod has something to do with your vac secondaries... my Sterling Carb doesn't even have one of those

Replacement of the rod should do it no prob.

Jon

nevarmore

Upon closer inspection the rod (which should have a spring running along it) is the secondary return spring, as in a backup to the primary return spring. The bit it connects to is just a lever with the primary return spring attached to the other side. It looks like its desinged so that both work together to help return the throttle to idle and that one can take over if the other breaks.

I have heard that it has something to do with the secondaries but without having a good look at the carburetor I'm not sure. Perhaps Sterling, Yaw, or one of the other carburetion gods will see this and fill us in.

Tom

That whole throttle linkage set up (stock) pisses me off. I can't remember which ******' rod does what without the manual or carb in front of me. duh.

So he can have primary juice but no ooomph until he gets the linkage fixed. Eee-gads.
PM Sterling or Carl- they'll know. They can prob hook you up with the damn linkage too.

cdrad51

Here's some info on that https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...4&page=1&pp=15

nevarmore

See thats why I was putting that T thing on there to begin with. Theres nothing really wrong with my car, just a mess of little things that need attention. Someone else has worked on the carb before I have, two months ago PeeJay discovered that my hot start and choke cables were hooked up backwards. I still wonder how my car actually started with the choke trying to hot start the car and the hot starter trying to choke it.

I hear ya with the complicated linkage. The least they could have done would have been to turn it 180 degrees so the mess was in front where we could at least see everything.

I'm sure they both have the bits I might need but, I have a crazy old RX-7 guru down near Columbus who is kind enough to let me root through his parts boxes when I need some stuff. Thanks again Denny!!!

nevarmore

Well crap, now it looks like I'll have to replace it. Thanks for the link, that did help explain what I was looking at and messing with.

If I'm reading that right, the pivot that that rod is connected to trips a switch for the fast idle. Which leads me to think that it may have something to do with the abnormally high idle (2000 rpm) I've been living with since I got the car too.

partsguy74

Damn.. and I wanted to have a reason to take a road trip.. ROFL..

Rx7carl

Not really. When I had that happen at the track, I didnt notice any difference in idle, it just limited the pedal travel and the throttle would only open about half way. But you do need to fix it or youll be hampered accel wise. Be careful removing all the linkage, theres alot of stuff that needs to go back in the correct order.

nevarmore

Oook. See I DO have idle problems. My idle was VERY high (2000-2200) so it was on the primary circuit. Now that I've broken that bit, its trying to idle around 1500, but the idle circuit is not set because it was never really idling on that.

Short version: I gotta get up and adjust my idle before work.

Sterling

I think something must be tugging on your high-idle linkage parts.
Gently try to turn the throttle shaft by hand closed to see if you make a difference in idle speed. You don't want to bend anything accidently; just see if something is hanging up.

nevarmore

Ok, I'm off to check it now. Thanks again for your help.

85rotarypower

If I'm seeing the pic right, that is simply just an "emergency" throttle return spring. It will not in any way affect performance if you remove it. I took it off my carb when I had the 12A and I didn't see any difference at all in the way the car ran. Throttle was just a little easyer to manipulate.

Unsupa

iTrader: (2)

if that spring/rod isn't put on that pedestal, you will see a difference in power.. I know so first hand.

cdrad51

Oh yes you will.

nevarmore

Ok its still not idling all the time.

I went and felt around the linkage, like Sterling said to do, looking for stuck bits or obstructions. I didn't notice any.

I have gone through the idle adjustment procedure. The car will idle around 1500, but only after it gets warmed up and only if I'm not coming down from higher RPMS. When I'm moving around town I have to get her out of gear, left foot brake, and keep the revs up manually or it will slowly fall below 1000 and die.

When it does idle, the idle is rough like the mixture is just a tad lean. It also bucks slightly between 2000 and 4000.

I have not yet replaced the rod that snapped, but I have reinstalled the spring on it. This did not return my car to its previous state (2000rpm smooth idle, no stalling). Which leads me to thing that SOMETHING is broken or jammed.

I'm really in a bind, the car is tricky to drive bordering on dangerous and its my only means of getting around. If you have any ideas I'd like to hear them. Some pics of the back side of a working 85 carb setup might help me find what doesn't look right to correct it.

If there are any locals (Northeast Ohio) who know firstgen carb linkages, I am willing to make it well worth your while to come and help me sort this out.

As always, thank you all for your help. I know this is all simple levers, cables, and pivots, but I'm having real hard time figuring this out.

cdrad51

It's not necessarily the carb. It sounds more like a vacuum leak. Have you checked for one?