I just bought an alluminum flywheely and counterweight from camocarl for 300bucks. About the same time I bought an upgraded clutch and pressure plate on ebay.

They don't appear to match. Now I am not blaming him, my dumbass just never thought to ask what mm the flywheel was, and the one on e-bay didn't specify.

Now, on racingbeat.com it specifies that ALL replacement alluminum flywheel friction plates, are the same??? WTF? Is there any way to make these match up? The clutch pads go just beond the friction plate on the flywheel. Am I just s.o.l. or what?

 

older cars had a 215mm friction surface between the clutch & flywheel, newer cars (83+?) had a 225mm surface.

Racingbeat has stopped selling the215mm version. you can fit a matching 215 or 225 pair on anycar, as longas the clutch & flywheel are the same size...

 

yes.
try posting in the WTB section and see if anybody will trade clutches with ya.

 

Ok, so if I need a replacement friction plate for a 215mm I can't get it?

 

try calling RB, if this is true that you cant get 215mm replacement friction plates, that would mean that all RB 215mm alluminum flywheels are now junk.

 

Wow, that would suck. I'll have to make a call to them tomorrow morning. Speaking of which, how easy is it to pull the old flywheel off and install this one with the engine still in the car.

 

it would be easiest to just pull the motor.

 

To change the flywheel? In my opinion, pulling the tranny is far easier. Why would you pull the motor? To get to the flywheel, you will have to pull the tranny from the motor anyways, so why not do it when the motor is still atached?

Sounds weird..

 

 

Hmm, guess I just pull the tranny...mabye do a rebuild while I am at it....or not.

Hey wacky, you don't have a clutch and pp laying around do you? I have a brand new out of the box, 6 puck with springs flywheel, pp, alighnment tool, and throwout bearing, rated at 327 hps worth of grabbing power!!!!

 

Will discuss that when you pick up the 3rd member this week-end. I can get them custom too for much cheaper than anywhere else. Bring it with ya. Since the Socal cruise has been postponed, I may have time to do other cars. let me know. In fact, I have 215 mm aluminum flywheel in the garage collecting dust.

 

i guess it depends what tools you have access. with out an impact wrench i figured that 2 1/8 nut would be awfully hard to crack with the engine wobbling on the front mounts. maybe if you had a lift? i am used to working in my driveway so for me i think pulling the motor would be easiest. only 8 bolts hold engine in, unbolt header, fuel line and throttle cable, and cooling lines.
i could pull my motor in 15 min. with basic hand tools.

 

I disagree with the above. To remove the engine, you have to drain all fluid including radiator/oil cooler, harness and such. I say BS with the 15 minute job. I can install the motor to the tranny in less than 5 minutes but thats not including radiator, fluids etc etc.

Its easier to just drop the tranny. I have no lift and most of the time, I have to manually do everything. My neighbors are bunch of complainers so I cant use air tools between 10 and 6 at night.

 

Try Fidenza, I remember reading somwhere that they made the RB clutches.

 

Actually, I was gonna tell ya when I see ya. But I will tell ya know. I had similar problem with the friction plate as it was out of production. Depending on how bad it is, you can get it cleaned-up. I had my clutch builder clean it and match it. Also, 10,000 RPM in Lancaster, CA can make you a custom friction plate provided that you bring the flywheel to them-- I spoke with them 2 years ago.

 

Same here. Dropping the tranny is way easier than pulling the motor. Pulling the motor you need to take the hood out, radiator (unless your risk taker), unbolt the AC compressor....etc. And if you have my setup, it's even worse. Kinda like taking out the dash to change some fuses.

 

how do you get the leverage to crack the big nut if the car is not on a lift and you're not using an impact wrench? you must jack the car up awfully high.
it usually takes me a 4 foot breaker bar and a 175lb hop.
drain the fluids while you undo the bolts, 15min. might be a little exaggeration, but to make a point that it dose'nt take **** to pull a motor. my car is bare essentials though. ( as all 12a 1st gens should be)
all we are stating is what we think is easiest. I for one would rather work above the car than under it. just my opinion.

 

I use ramps with 1 jack stand in the middle of the cross member, and 2 jack stands in the back to have enough room. it depends on my day, sometimes I use the modified RB wrench or socket/breaker bar with pipe for leverage or air tools. manual labor, I wedge the flywheel bracket on the floor and I use leg muscle to get the nut loose/tighten.

 

Well, I have acess to a lift about a mile away from my house...4bucks an hour. With unlimited tools and time on them, air or not...

 

Cool, I'll bring both up, and see what you got for trade, or mabye sale.

 

off subject, but do you sell 4-port lower dell manifolds? i have a dell setup on my 12a and want to put it on my REPU. it is the 2 piece style, so all i need is the lower.

 

Im not sure if RB still makes the dellorto LIM for 13-B. I used to have one but sold it along with the dellorto.

 

RB still sells them but they say they are for 76-78 13b's mine is a 75..???

 

it will fit. just use the right intake manifold gasket.

 

Ok so I call up racing beat and they tell me that the replacement friction plate fits both the 215 and 225 mm. I could see if I had a 225 and replaced it with a 215 that it would just have a small difference, but the 225 doesn't seem like it will bolt on to a 215 because there is not enough room?!?!?! Does anyone understand what I am saying or am I rambling?