I have a 83 12a and I tried MMO and ATF down the carb ( the two smaller holes closer to the driver side). Cleaned the spark plugs both times I tried it too. The first time I put ATF down the wrong holes in the carb ( the ones closer to the passagers side. Did that do something really bad? The reason it flooded was a friend moved my car when it wasn't warmed up all the way and shut it off. Dose that rule out compresion and things like that or dose flooding it aggravate one of the many problems it could be like a bad distributor cap/ wires or a clogged fuel filter?

I really love my car and just put $700 and hours of work into it. I would be very grateful if someone could help.
Thanks
Jim

 

have u takin the sparkplugs out disconected both negitives on the coils and cranked it over alot till the mist stops comin from the spark plug holes..

 

oh and it dosnt matter which holes u pour atf down the carb the small holes are your primarys and larger holes are secondarys
so the first rotor has the fist set which would be one primary and one secondary so dont be afraid

to check for cloged filter just take the fuel hose off put it in a jar get ready to turn the key to acc if the jar fills up with gas quick u shpould be sweet

 

The little holes on the driver side of the carb are the primaries; the bigger holes on the passenger side are the secondaries-- they all go to the same place so you didn't hurt the engine.

Search on deflood and you'll find tons of info on this procedure. Basically, though, pull all the plugs out, disconnect the plug wires at the coils (some people have had sparks from here that caused a fire, so you're on your own...) turn power off to the fuel pump and spin the engine until gas stops spraying out of the plug holes. Put everything back together using fresh plugs, put a (very) little oil down the primaries, spin it over and it should crank. If it don't, do this again. Without following the deflood procedure, you'll never get a flooded FB cranked. Check tha FAQ under the carb section for why 1st gens flood.

- David

 

Pull the plugs and throw them away. Spin it over a few times. Put in Fresh plugs, And then pull start it.

 

You can reuse the plugs just spray them with brake cleaner first, this will clean and dry the old fuel

 

Sorry to revive this old thread, but I just started having this problem with my SE. Never had flooding with the 83GS I bought new, nor with the 85GSL or the REPU. So I concluded that it was an artifact of the FI system and could be solved by some kind of maintenance. Two times previously I was at home so I simply let the SE set for 24 hours and it started the next day. This time I searched the forum and went out in 1/2 hr. pulled the 2nd fuse on the right , cranked it over for 2 secs, re-installed the fuse and it started reluctantly and with great clouds of smoke.

So, maybe I can start it next time just by pulling the fuse. If that doesn't work, I downloaded all the de-flooding procedures I could find onto my Palm Pilot, just in case.

But how can I effect a permanent fix? New injectors? Some adjustment I'm not aware of? Does anyone know?

 

yep kind of sounds like leaking injectors.

 

Bahhh.....sounds like you have leaky fuel injectors. Run a couple cans of seafoam or if your ambitious buy some BG44K off ebay and see how that works. I've read it's the bomb but have yet to use it. You could be our testimonial!!

Otherwise yank your injectors and send em out to rceng cruzingperformance or witchhunter. All 3 seem to be reputable.

 

Leaking injectors is the main cause of flooding on the FI engines. Send them out for cleaning/calibration to RC Engineering, Cruiz Performance or Witch hunter. If you have a diesel truck repair shop local, they may be able to service them without the turnaround time wait.

 

I remember seeing $40 ea. rebuilt injectors on the net once. Actually, I'd rather pay the price than take a chance of getting stranded.

How could an FI cleaner like Seafoam correct a worn injector? Maybe it would cleanout sticky obstructions, but it won't improve wornout clearances.

 

On the list, RC is the highest at 25 each plus shipping.

 

I'll pay someone else to do the whole thing, probably Mr. Mazda in Campbell CA. I just have to arrange to ferry a car down there then I'll start rotating cars thru to get the various tuning jobs done. I also have a Sterling carb I want to install and try.

Instead of waiting for rebuild turnaround I'd be willing to buy *new* injectors or pay a core deposit for a good rebuild.

Of course there's this legendary guy "Ivan" I've heard of, if I knew where to find Ivan I'd give him a try.

 

Stay away from injectors rebuilt by a company called Python.

Why don't you locate a set of used injectors, then send them to witchhunters. The turn around time is only 2-3 days. He charges $15.00 a piece and then $10.00 return shipping. If you send 4 injectors to him then the return shipping is free. I have had many sets done from him and they have all been great.

For the right price I'll drive up there and R&R them for you but recommend you have a set waiting because it is too far to drive back and forth.

 

Mr Mazda in Cambell?? Winchester transmission is right next to him right? If it is, my uncle owns that shop.