eastman415

So I bought my first Rx7 today. It belonged to my girlfriend's dad. I was wondering if anyone knows of any smaller projects I can undertake while the car is in storage for the next few months. I have a little experience working with my other car but am by no means a mechanic. I bought the car solely for the purpose of learning how and I just can't stand the thought of not doing anything while it sits in storage for 5 months. I think because it wont be driven much before storage that I wont worry about the basics until next spring (girlfriends dad said plugs, cap, rotor, filters, etc. were fairly new). So far i've come up with rebuilding all four brake calipers (should've mentioned sooner, its a 83 GSL with all the options), a lot of interior cleaning, and thats about it. Any other ideas or tips would be appreciated.

DriftFB

brakes would be a good place to get yourself into it. Maybe a oil change also, for the knoweldge and because your storing it. Other than that, clean the engine bay. It will get you used to being in there and having to fit wrenches and sockets in weird places and will look good to.

Make sure you invest in good jackstands and a jack.

Good luck.

Naegleria_Fowleri

If you don't have emissions testing there you can get rid of the rat's nest, if you have enough money to do exhaust I would do that. Rebuild the carb if it needs it. If you want it to look nicer you can clean the wheels and stuff like that. If it were my car in storage, I would be saving up for a carb upgrade, and all that stuff.

As far as working on these cars go, I'm no mechanic either but I find it to be overly easy to work on it. Thus far nothing has went wrong that I couldn't fix in a day or two at most. There is that engine rebuild I really need to stop being lazy about and just do already, but eh, we all have our lazy days, and just so long as I have one to drive right now, that is what really matters to me.

Oh, post 1,000!

7aull

iTrader: (2)

if its going to sit, undriven for the next 5 months then you'd be wise to prep it properly;
-wash the car -especially under the wheel wells, rear around fuel tank and muffler, etc. Idea is to get rid of all moisture-retaining, rust inducing mud and muck
-park the car on a sheet of plastic: inside or out, concrete or gravel all "vent" moisture that will corrode your undercarriage
-FULL fuel tank and add Fuel Stabilizer to the fuel when you fill. Low/empty tanks are a breeding ground for rust, especially in old cars!! Full tank minimizes the air speac inside where moisture can condense in the tank = rust.
-change fuel filter (driver side in front of rear wheel)
-assuming the car starts and run, remove the driver-side storage bin behind the seat to access the wire harness that plugs to the fuel pump (which itself is below the car outside). The idea is to disconnect the pump, start and run the car till it dies, thus draining as much gasoline out of the carb as you can. That way old, dried gas goop won't plug up the carb
-pour 4-6 oz TOTAL (guesstimate) of motor oil down the carb throats, crank the engine over 2 or 3 times to spread the oil around the inside wall. YOU DON'T WANT IGNITION SO PULL THE WIRES OFF THE COILS FIRST!! Will give you a good smoke cloud on startup next spring! that's normal (though it will PO the neighbors)
-change engine oil and filter
-using plastic bags, remove the air cleaner and place one over the mouth of the carb, reset the cleaner on top; likewise cover the tail pipes and zip tie (elastic bands tend to fail after a while) them closed. Idea here is, like the fuel tank, deny moisture access into the engine block
-WD40 every joint, hinge, key hole, under dizzy cap, etc.
-wax the car- give that paint as much protection as you can
-cover the car: even an old bedsheet is better than nothing INDOORS. DO NOT USE TARP or PLASTIC: doesn't breath, kiss your paint goodbye. Outdoors a good quality cover is a good investment - I have a covercraft and they are not cheap (but compared to a paint job???) but they do a fantastic job protecting the car. BUT: if its parked in an Area subject to high winds, NO COVER (or again, bye-bye paint)

Stuff you can do while you wait the 5 months:
-drain all coolant, take rad out and to pro rad shop and get it professionally dunked. Rotaries are VERY fussy about good cooling, and unless you have proof the rad was flushed/changed in the last 5 years, this is very cheap insurance!!
-great time to install all new water hoses INCLUDING the heater hose running ionto the interior
-don't forget to mix with DISTILLED water and coolant. yeah, new thermostat too-
-brake and clutch fluid. Change/flush both. Old fluid harbors water = rust and destuction of Master cylinders = $$
-likewise tranny and diff. Many here, me included, use Amsoil and Red Line lube to great effect. But even the "normal" stuff is preferable to the gunge that may have been in there since the car was new!
-new air filter

I know the guys here are pretty anxious to tell you about engine mods and upgrades, all well and good - but you have a 20+ yr old car. Take car of the basics first to enjoy the car. Probably needs most or all weatherstripping replaced. Not cheap but amazing how much quieter the car is!!

I put my RX thru this every fall for the L-o-o-ong (outdoor!) Alaska winters and she starts up first key-crank every spring!!
enjoy
Stu Aull
80GS (been there, done all that!)
Alaska

GavinJuice

thats a good point, i know it's more of a collector car thing. i read in a magazine that concrete constantly breathes as it never actually cures in any certain period of time. yes it hardens but it gets harder and harder for as long as it's there.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

I'm storing my car new shell in a once upon a time was a horse stable. The five feet of top layer contain saw dust and a few more things to absorb the water moister. Underneath all that is a water collector system that stores the water and drives it downward only. That make the top layer unfreezable. hehe ... anyhow back on top ... I would basically for starters just look around the car ... "explore it" I could say ...see what makes what tick. Then from there get the wrenches out and start your cleaning and "understanding" of the parts. Try to be one with the car

Rogue_Wulff

Exceptional list. I would also reccomend disconnecting and removing the battery.
1, prevents the battery from leaking.
2, Allows for cleaning any previously leaked/spilled battery acid, and treating the surfaces.