first gen dual headlight conversion kit
03-28-02, 04:21 PM
#29
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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I think, if interst is great enough there will be a kit. I know V8kilr is gonna make a kit 
, I am most likely gonna help him So there will be a kit, so be patient
What would you all pay for a kit? Just curious
LATERZ, Andrew
, I am most likely gonna help him So there will be a kit, so be patient What would you all pay for a kit? Just curious
LATERZ, Andrew
03-28-02, 05:09 PM
#30
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Well that all depends on the wiring and the bulbs (or even if bulbs come with it), and the quality of the mounting apparatus. 
Waht are you thinking?
It may take you a while to develop something that can be marketed. Quality is an issue. I will buy one of Davids. If they come out fairly soon.
Maybe we need a good old fashioned price war on these things.
Waht are you thinking?It may take you a while to develop something that can be marketed. Quality is an issue. I will buy one of Davids. If they come out fairly soon.
Maybe we need a good old fashioned price war on these things.
03-28-02, 08:49 PM
#31
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My main concern is with beam patern and quality. Of course I want it to look good (like the first pic I posted), but if it won't light up the road, it doesn't do me much good, does it?
Last edited by smnc; 03-28-02 at 09:05 PM.
03-29-02, 10:04 AM
#33
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David: Is there any way we can keep our eyes peeled for parts or do anything for you to help speed this up a bit? I'm set on buying them, but the waiting is beginning to wear me down. I guess I'm getting sleepy eyes waiting for the sleepy eyes...
I guess I'm getting sleepy eyes waiting for the sleepy eyes...
03-29-02, 01:59 PM
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Hey, a haedlight thread! I know a thing or two about headlamps - cause that's what I do for a living.
Dichroic coatings are applied to the inner aspheric lenses of projector units to reflect IR energy and keep the outer plastic lens of the lamp from melting. It gives the glass inner lens a violet/blue color.
Bulbs:
You got your halogen bulbs, you got your HID bulbs, and finally your fake HID bulbs, which are really halogens with some type of coating on the bulb globe.
In general the fake HID's are COMPLETE GARBAGE: less light output, more glare light in all lamps, and shorter lifetimes. Putting these bulbs in your headlamps will almost certainly cause them to fail FMVSS108 specs. making the headlamps ILLEGAL. Not that anyone checks for this on the road...... but expect to get flashed by oncoming drivers, loose alot of your range, and be blind in the rain.
There are exceptions. Philips makes a decent bulb: HIR, or halogen infrared. It won't give you a blue light, just a much "whiter" light.
HID bulbs ( Philips D1S or D2S ) put out a ton of light, less heat, and use less energy than halogens. There is no filament - light is generated by high voltage arc between two electrodes within the small bulb globe. Downside: obviously you need a ballast to jump from the car systems 12V to a couple kV. Also, in the first couple milliseconds of arc startup the ballast, bulb, and starter system draw a freakin huge amount of current - 20A or more per bulb. Then it drops to a reasonable level. Also the systems generate massive amounts of RF noise without proper shielding.
If you are looking for units to use in a rex consider buying a couple Seville HID lamps with the ballast. They are probably in the top 3 brightest lowbeam headlamps ever produced.
The major problem in retro fitting HID reflector/lens units in an 1st gen would be sealing the unit to prevent dust and water getting in around the bulb and optical surface of the reflector. The units are generally not sealed for heat reasons. They are usually subsystems built into a sealed headlamp unit. If someone could fab up a polycarb. outer lens and a nylon or fiberglass bezel you'd be in buisness.
Dichroic coatings are applied to the inner aspheric lenses of projector units to reflect IR energy and keep the outer plastic lens of the lamp from melting. It gives the glass inner lens a violet/blue color.
Bulbs:
You got your halogen bulbs, you got your HID bulbs, and finally your fake HID bulbs, which are really halogens with some type of coating on the bulb globe.
In general the fake HID's are COMPLETE GARBAGE: less light output, more glare light in all lamps, and shorter lifetimes. Putting these bulbs in your headlamps will almost certainly cause them to fail FMVSS108 specs. making the headlamps ILLEGAL. Not that anyone checks for this on the road...... but expect to get flashed by oncoming drivers, loose alot of your range, and be blind in the rain.
There are exceptions. Philips makes a decent bulb: HIR, or halogen infrared. It won't give you a blue light, just a much "whiter" light.
HID bulbs ( Philips D1S or D2S ) put out a ton of light, less heat, and use less energy than halogens. There is no filament - light is generated by high voltage arc between two electrodes within the small bulb globe. Downside: obviously you need a ballast to jump from the car systems 12V to a couple kV. Also, in the first couple milliseconds of arc startup the ballast, bulb, and starter system draw a freakin huge amount of current - 20A or more per bulb. Then it drops to a reasonable level. Also the systems generate massive amounts of RF noise without proper shielding.
If you are looking for units to use in a rex consider buying a couple Seville HID lamps with the ballast. They are probably in the top 3 brightest lowbeam headlamps ever produced.
The major problem in retro fitting HID reflector/lens units in an 1st gen would be sealing the unit to prevent dust and water getting in around the bulb and optical surface of the reflector. The units are generally not sealed for heat reasons. They are usually subsystems built into a sealed headlamp unit. If someone could fab up a polycarb. outer lens and a nylon or fiberglass bezel you'd be in buisness.
Last edited by crafoo; 03-29-02 at 02:07 PM.
03-29-02, 02:14 PM
#35
ok, someone put him in on the project.
Originally posted by crafoo
Hey, a haedlight thread! I know a thing or two about headlamps - cause that's what I do for a living.
Dichroic coatings are applied to the inner aspheric lenses of projector units to reflect IR energy and keep the outer plastic lens of the lamp from melting. It gives the glass inner lens a violet/blue color.
Bulbs:
You got your halogen bulbs, you got your HID bulbs, and finally your fake HID bulbs, which are really halogens with some type of coating on the bulb globe.
In general the fake HID's are COMPLETE GARBAGE: less light output, more glare light in all lamps, and shorter lifetimes. Putting these bulbs in your headlamps will almost certainly cause them to fail FMVSS108 specs. making the headlamps ILLEGAL. Not that anyone checks for this on the road...... but expect to get flashed by oncoming drivers, loose alot of your range, and be blind in the rain.
There are exceptions. Philips makes a decent bulb: HIR, or halogen infrared. It won't give you a blue light, just a much "whiter" light.
HID bulbs ( Philips D1S or D2S ) put out a ton of light, less heat, and use less energy than halogens. There is no filament - light is generated by high voltage arc between two electrodes within the small bulb globe. Downside: obviously you need a ballast to jump from the car systems 12V to a couple kV. Also, in the first couple milliseconds of arc startup the ballast, bulb, and starter system draw a freakin huge amount of current - 20A or more per bulb. Then it drops to a reasonable level. Also the systems generate massive amounts of RF noise without proper shielding.
If you are looking for units to use in a rex consider buying a couple Seville HID lamps with the ballast. They are probably in the top 3 brightest lowbeam headlamps ever produced.
The major problem in retro fitting HID reflector/lens units in an 1st gen would be sealing the unit to prevent dust and water getting in around the bulb and optical surface of the reflector. The units are generally not sealed for heat reasons. They are usually subsystems built into a sealed headlamp unit. If someone could fab up a polycarb. outer lens and a nylon or fiberglass bezel you'd be in buisness.
Hey, a haedlight thread! I know a thing or two about headlamps - cause that's what I do for a living.
Dichroic coatings are applied to the inner aspheric lenses of projector units to reflect IR energy and keep the outer plastic lens of the lamp from melting. It gives the glass inner lens a violet/blue color.
Bulbs:
You got your halogen bulbs, you got your HID bulbs, and finally your fake HID bulbs, which are really halogens with some type of coating on the bulb globe.
In general the fake HID's are COMPLETE GARBAGE: less light output, more glare light in all lamps, and shorter lifetimes. Putting these bulbs in your headlamps will almost certainly cause them to fail FMVSS108 specs. making the headlamps ILLEGAL. Not that anyone checks for this on the road...... but expect to get flashed by oncoming drivers, loose alot of your range, and be blind in the rain.
There are exceptions. Philips makes a decent bulb: HIR, or halogen infrared. It won't give you a blue light, just a much "whiter" light.
HID bulbs ( Philips D1S or D2S ) put out a ton of light, less heat, and use less energy than halogens. There is no filament - light is generated by high voltage arc between two electrodes within the small bulb globe. Downside: obviously you need a ballast to jump from the car systems 12V to a couple kV. Also, in the first couple milliseconds of arc startup the ballast, bulb, and starter system draw a freakin huge amount of current - 20A or more per bulb. Then it drops to a reasonable level. Also the systems generate massive amounts of RF noise without proper shielding.
If you are looking for units to use in a rex consider buying a couple Seville HID lamps with the ballast. They are probably in the top 3 brightest lowbeam headlamps ever produced.
The major problem in retro fitting HID reflector/lens units in an 1st gen would be sealing the unit to prevent dust and water getting in around the bulb and optical surface of the reflector. The units are generally not sealed for heat reasons. They are usually subsystems built into a sealed headlamp unit. If someone could fab up a polycarb. outer lens and a nylon or fiberglass bezel you'd be in buisness.
03-31-02, 08:16 PM
#36
Rotary Freak
well so far i have 8 kits worked up,
only three thus far are really what im looking for,
the set that i like the most uses dual diochroic bulbs for a very bright white light "hid style" but the bulbs draw less wattage then hid simulator bulbs,
the only problem is that their driving lights,
which means that you will have a ver straight narrow long range beam,
but nothing on the sides,
however i was thinking of adding a fog to each side,
this would mean it would be one fog one driving on each side,
but i cant find a fog to match the driving light,
however i did find some fogs that look realy nice and with andy's help i could make a really nice kit,
but it would be a dual fog kit,
so you would have tons of light on the sides and nothing really in front of you,
so i think this is the final plan
4 driving lights on all the time "when headlights are turned on",
two inner bulbs will angle in
two outer bulbs will angle out,
this will give you a wider range
then a 12-5 volt step down box with spst relay,
this will give you high/low beam effect
so what do you guys think?
also would anyone like to see my new custom gauges?
their beta 5
beta 7 should be the final test set
only three thus far are really what im looking for,
the set that i like the most uses dual diochroic bulbs for a very bright white light "hid style" but the bulbs draw less wattage then hid simulator bulbs,
the only problem is that their driving lights,
which means that you will have a ver straight narrow long range beam,
but nothing on the sides,
however i was thinking of adding a fog to each side,
this would mean it would be one fog one driving on each side,
but i cant find a fog to match the driving light,
however i did find some fogs that look realy nice and with andy's help i could make a really nice kit,
but it would be a dual fog kit,
so you would have tons of light on the sides and nothing really in front of you,
so i think this is the final plan
4 driving lights on all the time "when headlights are turned on",
two inner bulbs will angle in
two outer bulbs will angle out,
this will give you a wider range
then a 12-5 volt step down box with spst relay,
this will give you high/low beam effect
so what do you guys think?
also would anyone like to see my new custom gauges?
their beta 5
beta 7 should be the final test set
03-31-02, 08:40 PM
#37
smog nazi destroyer
v8kilr:send me pictures of both..
felix@atg1.com
felix@atg1.com
03-31-02, 10:23 PM
#40
Rotary Freak
and buy them on my site in about a month,
as for the hd conversions,
well im sorry but they are classified until release sate which is schedualed for september
sorry
03-31-02, 10:42 PM
#41
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For you ppl who are making kits, I've also been interested in these for some time. However, I'd like the ability to choose the lights, trim, glass, etc. Of course, this is not possible with a premade kit, so i'd was wondering how you were changing the linkage on the headlight motor to raise the buckets half way. I might be interested in buying just the linkages for a modest cost, or if you could send dimentions that'd be good too. email me, or post, or PM, whatever... I'll do the math if i must to make it work out, but i'd love to work off some one elses knowledge. And b4 someone email's me about making a kit, it's *never* gonna happen :P too much school work for that foolishness...
I'll do the math if i must to make it work out, but i'd love to work off some one elses knowledge. And b4 someone email's me about making a kit, it's *never* gonna happen :P too much school work for that foolishness...
03-31-02, 11:09 PM
#43
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V8kilr, you've got some really good ideas. I'd love to see pics of your bezels. Are you using a clear outer lens to cover the lamps?
The 5V/12V low beam thing isn't going to work out quite the way you think. High beams blast light above the horizon (angled up) vs. low beams which are required to have ~99.9% of the light angled below horizon (striking the road surface). You won't get the same effect of a real upper beam. You won't get more range down the road as you should with a real upper beam. I'd seriously consider ditching the high beam function all together. How often do you actually use your high beams? I never do unless I'm on a rural highway - basiclly never.
If you can, get your hands on some OEM projector headlamps. Mercedes, Porche, BMW, Caddie, Honda, Mazda Millenia... etc. and try using those. Some models offer both a HID (D2S or D1S) and a halogen bulb (9006 usually).
When you get a kit done I could mount it up on a photometer system and measure the output pattern, total lumens, and get you some iso curves to compare against the factory sealed beam unit.
laters
The 5V/12V low beam thing isn't going to work out quite the way you think. High beams blast light above the horizon (angled up) vs. low beams which are required to have ~99.9% of the light angled below horizon (striking the road surface). You won't get the same effect of a real upper beam. You won't get more range down the road as you should with a real upper beam. I'd seriously consider ditching the high beam function all together. How often do you actually use your high beams? I never do unless I'm on a rural highway - basiclly never.
If you can, get your hands on some OEM projector headlamps. Mercedes, Porche, BMW, Caddie, Honda, Mazda Millenia... etc. and try using those. Some models offer both a HID (D2S or D1S) and a halogen bulb (9006 usually).
When you get a kit done I could mount it up on a photometer system and measure the output pattern, total lumens, and get you some iso curves to compare against the factory sealed beam unit.
laters
03-31-02, 11:14 PM
#44
Rotary Freak
before i go on i'd like to say that i will probably not be selling any of the gauges by them selves,
i will however be selling complete instrument cluster with a reverse iniglo effect with the custom gauges installed,
you will be able to choose any back lit color you want for night time driving,
the reason i am doing the gauges in a kit like this is because jose already sells gauges by themselves,
and everyone seems to want gauges that look as good at night as they do i the day time,
this is very complicated to do and requires
time alot of it
soldering skills
led lights "i use 5-6 leds @ 3,000 mcd"
basic electronic knowledge of resistors/relays etc
and experience
ok on with the gauges
this first set is still in beta,
only two needles are red in color,
i havent got around to the other 4 yet,
this is my test cluster that i test all me gauges and led configurations on
this set is my jspec set
i will however be selling complete instrument cluster with a reverse iniglo effect with the custom gauges installed,
you will be able to choose any back lit color you want for night time driving,
the reason i am doing the gauges in a kit like this is because jose already sells gauges by themselves,
and everyone seems to want gauges that look as good at night as they do i the day time,
this is very complicated to do and requires
time alot of it
soldering skills
led lights "i use 5-6 leds @ 3,000 mcd"
basic electronic knowledge of resistors/relays etc
and experience
ok on with the gauges
this first set is still in beta,
only two needles are red in color,
i havent got around to the other 4 yet,
this is my test cluster that i test all me gauges and led configurations on
this set is my jspec set