immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

i know this is a second gen section but the heart of my fb is a second gen. any ways on with the project.

first off i know and i under stand what im doing is kind of odd, and il get lots of now Y would you do that lol as the oter mechanic i work with keeps says.
ok so
first off i wanted a 13BTII (FC3s ) engine, i ended up getting one from sunrise japan in montreal Quebec, then engine pakage sold for 1850$ can shiped (keep in mind when i called this guy that week he was the only canadian and usa company that had a 13BtII, so i took the engine, the day it showed up i could have cried, she was so beutiful, it was missing nothing but maf, ABV(BOV) new down pipe (down pipe was cut just after the O2 senor just enough to weild an other pipe on to (the only problem i realy found was when they cut the dang down pipe with a tourch it splashed liquide hot magma on the turbo fins any ways after 2 days of planing and seeing how i was going to install this new enigne. i stoped and thought to my self "i better do a compretion test" well rotor #2 got 3 solid jumps of 90psi and rotor #1 got 0-0-0psi. i jumped on the phone and called sunrise toled him the rotor #1 had no compretion due to the apex seal bing stuck he toled me "can you just spary some WD-40 on to make them work" i all most died loling, but any ways i shiped it back and he honored the money back less 150$for shiping from london Ont to quebec. 2 weeks l8ter i found this guy on ebay selling engine out of Toronto so i called the guy up for 1200$can shiped he sent one of his friends with a truck and shiped it for me. compretion is good but im now out of warenty, because it took me to long to install it so im hoping it still runs. any ways on with the swap.

i did not use the conventional way of doing the FB to FC engine Swap, witch is using a stock GSLE fron cover getting it tiged and altored to fit the TII OMP and use the stock FB oil pan, i did not have the time nor the money to get new gaskit and ect. so i ended up making custom motor and trany mount alltho then engine ended up bing croked because the air engine picker i was using was kind of pushing the engine up 2 pumps per seconds i just got mad and started making some mounts. i endedup doing solid engine and trany mounts the only rubber mounts used are the stock 85 Gs 12A trany bolt to frame mounts. i have included a link to the pic for this project, the pic of single parts are for sale IE: 12A Ac system, TII s5 ac pump, TII Pw steering pump with braket, TII air pump. thanks for looking il keep posting new mods/problems o yes i all most forgot my plan was to make a complet first gen sleepper, but because the engine is so high in the engine bay il need something like a subaru wrx hood vent lol. il post pics onece its done.
BTW sry for the bad pic i shake when i take pics plus my cam is not all that good so colors suck allso








more pics
http://s72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...0want%202%20B/

speed_monkey

please resize the second pic lol

R.P.M.

iTrader: (3)

T2 powered FB's are awesome!!

If you need any parts or help, then let me know. I could have got you a good T2 motor for just under $1k.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

i needed the trany ecu wires the whole convertion tho for 1200$ pm sent tho

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

thursday: i got most of the wiering problmes solved next step is getting power to the ecu, fuel pump, coils getting my s5 maf and it should start

sat: im installing a hocky puck in the left motor mount to raise it so the engine will sit level. and this should make my trany sit perfect. tanks dj55b for the puck idea

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Nice project!!!

+1 for TII powered FB's!! Light chassis with a ballsy motor = barrells of fun!

Now you just need one of my speciality hoods - hehehe

Edit: I noticed you have somekind of custom mounts....curious why you didn't just swap front covers and the oil pans so you could use the original FB mounts?

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

Photography by Stevie Wonder?

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

cocaine is a hell of a drug
hahaa

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

from wha i was reading i needed to get the front cover tigged, resied to make the TII omp fit then i need gaskits, $$$ and to make things worse the engine and trany was in one of my booses trucks that was for sale, it was to be preped for the auction this monday so need less to say i hade to install the enge sunday afternoon with what i hade.

new est update: saterday: fixed the croked engine and refabed my right engine mount, then engine is now sitting much lower and even. hood scoop wont be to big any more. now i just need some sleep i have worked all dang day fixing a stupiud honda civic then worked till 1am readjusting my engine. so my system is all most ready to crash. but it will honld till the MR.Noodle super is done lol

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

classicauto what are the odd of 2 ppl installing TII engine in a fb that is prety darn close to the same yellow hehe

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

you will have to show me, the time is coming soon dj55b....
sunday: custome made a down pipe with a presilencor (just hope it works lol)
changed some vacume lines, installed some wires, removed the stock fuel pump, reinstalled my amp and listen to the bass for a while all seams fine electricly. turned the engine over some more today sounds really nice.
all i need now is maf, fuel pump, map sensor, runs some wires for the coils run wires for fuel pump, set up some relays, find a medium connector that plugs on the ecu. fill my tank with supper and i should be on the way to boost



Me with engine installed straight and low

rotary_sex

that engine looks straight but i dont know about low. that intercooler is WAY above the hood line

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Well....yeah you SHOULD use gaskets, but if the pan gasket is OK it can be re-used and the front cover can be RTV'd (although a gasket is the best, and only way IMO, RTV does work)

The front cover does need to be "modded" for the oil return, however its really not too difficult. And I didn't have to modify mine to fit a TII MOP at all (but mine was a GSL-SE cover)

You can see in the 1st gen front cover, a "blank" in the casting for where the turbo ol return goes, all you need to doo is drill and tap a fitting of appropriate size (sorry don't remember which) and then weld another recipent fitting to the return line, thread and voila.

Other than that its a direct swap.

But its all good - you're way will work, just have to muck around with fitment, but you seem to have it sorted out!!

Good luck.....and one more question - what are you usign for an oil cooler? tell me you've got the FC one up front......

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

well i dont have an oil cooler yet, a friend says he has one for me, im hopin my 88n/a hase one and if it dose im hopinh i can make it fit, my parents are coming down this week with some parts for me like traling coils some hoses, rad, i just hope the oil cooler will work, im woundering about the terottle cable tho what should i use for that, that and the fuel pump what in line fuel pump should i get if i plan on doing some mod down the line??

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Throttle cable:

Don't re-call I didn't set it up.....judging from some more pics I have, we used the orig. cable

Oil cooler:

FC one fits beautifully in front of the rad with only minor trimming of bracketry, trust me, you'll see where it goes!!

Rad:

FC rad fits beautifully as well with only minor mods - for a REAL good write up - PM Feds, he has one in his and would know exactly what to do (snce we used the original GSL-SE rad with a "modded" t-stat as per Reted's writeup)

Fuel pump: (pm responded)

If you're planning mods down the road, I would run an Aeromotive A-1000 since its an line pump anyways...

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

well yesterday i installed a ford starter ralay, as my fans relay, it was pulled of a van for god know what reason the customer wanted it changed so i changed it and saaved it lol. the wires that came with the E-FAN (OUT OF A 98 PONTIAC GRAND AM gtp the guys just needed one replaced the the junk yeard sent us 2, so one is used my my rx7 now, i just used the second connector to run a 40amp fuse, kind of worked out nicely, il see if i cant get a good"GOOD" pic or the setup.

I just hope the relay stand the battle, i have it set up so if the relay fail i can just go derect incase i really need to.

i then installed the hood today to see what i was working with, well its not good my hood would need an over hall, so i started thinking about what my next step was, and well the thired time is a char as they say. so i pulled my 12A front cover off and wow theres not all that much work involed in making that fit, so im doin the swap like it should have ben done in the first place, i guss i just got scared of what i was reading and did not want to get stuck with something not working out, so this week il work on moding the front cover and if all works out good il have it bakc together by friday afternoone during brakes and lunch times, and monday (civic holladay) il reinstall the engine for the thired time and custume make a dang trany mount seeing as i kind of welded and cut my factory one twice now
any ways thanks for reaing my bs, and bearing wiht me and my spelling

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Nice man..

That starter relay should hold up quite well...

If when its all together, you need some advice/hands on help with the hood, shoot me a PM - Im always gad to help out another forum member, and hey - you're only in London I can shoot down, you buy me a couple beers and Ill help you make a scoop

Good luck man!

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

sounds good man seeing as how my body man / friend just lost his dang shop and all my tools, thats ok if i dont get them shitty canadian tire cheap tools back ilkeep his dewalt cutoff saw, the only good tools where the soket set o well cutoff saw is 150$ lol

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

dang i did not notice your only 2 Hours away lol thats kind of far hhe
my shop is in ailsagraid 30minout side london we can just use dj55b's eard in london hehe

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

well...the offer is open - just shoot me a PM if you need a hand!!

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

cool thaks man!
well i might as well post an update:
i called a seal and bearing palce today to get a new front main seal for x.xxx" by x.xxx" size hes like well your going to have to call the dealer i dont have any thing like that. so i called mazda and low and behold.
il will be in first thing in the morning, so i figured while im on the phone with him i might as well see if i cant get a front cover gaskit and **** they can, all for only 15$, so il have all the parts il need to reinstall the engine for the third time this monday. il try to posrt some updates on that and take some gooder pics lol
Moe

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

well monday (civic holaday i got payed to install my own engine lol) so i decided i should do the 12A front cover convertion and get my engine sitting lower so i can clsoe my hood, in installed the front cover and realized the watter pump off the s5 dose not fit, so i installed my 12A watter pump i then removed the s5 OMP and put it off to the side, i think im going premix. o ised the hole for the OMP drive as my turbo return line. i then fabed the lines jsut wright to realise that il need to make a new hole on my 12A watter pump for the therotte colling passages and for the temp sensor with i then looked at my s5 watter pump to see what was holding it back and low and behold it just needed some aluminum grinded off lol. so i made it fit, the only problem now is that well the custome oil return lines i just buit are no longer good for the stock S5 watter pump placement, so il have to refab that line. next prolem i incountered was that my 12A oil pan did not fit because the S5 engine block with the 12A front cover make it around 1/2" longer thus making me fab an new oil pan, i just ended up grinding off the rear lip of my 12A pan and cut off the back section of my S5 oil pan and wielded them to make one. and wow a perfect fit. i installed the engine to find that its realy realy close to the fire wall as in i cant use my factory heater core, the intake manifold is so close that il weare a hole in the line in no time if i keep them there, so eather il go with out heat witch i figure if just make a vent from the engne bay in the cab that should keep me nice and hot lol, but ya il just move the heater core around and use the old Chev trick run 5' of cooling holse under the dash board and out from the right fire wall.
new i just need to make a trany mount, I got my ecu body connector thanks to i belive his name is criss from RPM a big thanks for Joes quick thinking! and if all gose well they might be able to find me an S5 trany yoke. my Dad broght me a S4 radiator and traling coil, so il be installing those this week and im thinking of installing my front mouted intercooler off a volvo i have,this will keep it a sleeper witch is was i was hoping for. but that intercool is kind of big those, dose any one know how this might affect the system in any way good or bad please let me know. well i think thats it for now il post some new smaller pic of engine/ I/C S4 rad installed this week some time.
Moe

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

new update on the project, 3" front mouted volvo I/C and S4 radiator installed in front of the sway bar link, one i find my cam il take some pics of it and make them top quiality so ppl can see them. lol
the S4 radiator was about as low as the front cross member so i decided to weld a 5'X1"x2" tube of steel under the I/c that will protech the radiator and i then wielded a plate under the radiator to make shure that if i do end up going over something it wont damage the radiator. (that would be my luck) the only thing i did not realy think about was the battery thing, with the front mouted i/c where it is i can use a battey in the engine bay, so il have to go out and get my self a gel battery and mout it in one of the bins, il i need now is my maf and preshure sensor (coming next weeked) fuel pump is getting ordered monday, and custom I/C piping (imhoping thats not going to caust me to much, any way il post some pics asap
Moe

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

The FMIC won't have any negative effects with the stock turbo setup other than having a possible delay of an extra 1 or 200rpm for the boost to hit.

But when it does hit it will be a MUCH cooler charge than through the TMIC so you will see gains in that aspect.

P.S. I have S5 yokes here, TII and N/A. What do you need? PM me.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

well did some wiering today finaly got my coils to spark, i converted the stock FB suse block (main, head lights, retrator block) with an S4 block. im getting some intercooler pipe done next week, fuel pump is on order, cooling i used 1.5"X18" long flex hoses and for the op one i used 1.5"x18" with a 45 degree on it, im hoping to have her running by next week end. if all gose weel that is.