FB vs FD
#26
love the braaaap
I think it will come down to driver experience. But hey, what do I know. I didn't say the FD would loose. All I said is that I think it would be a closer race than you guys think.
#27
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i can hhhwhooop up on stock fd's...... but that means i would utterly destroy your fb. because unfortunately... you have absolutely no torque. it's amazing how these engines will throw you around and lift the front of the car up when boosted.. WOO WOOOOO!!!! get a fuggin hair dryer on there!
#30
Here in australia, i know a tuner who uses his "FB" ( SA22C ) as a circuit car and said he can make it go better around a track then his previous FD due to weight..
hmmmm... but "FB"s are slow out of factory.... 12A N/A
hmmmm... but "FB"s are slow out of factory.... 12A N/A
#34
love the braaaap
Originally Posted by RX7 RAGE
Stock FDs weigh 2800....mine is at 2700 now due to some weight reduction
#38
Originally Posted by a13btrx7@hotmail.com
hey guess do u think he has a chance in the start ? since the fd is turboed it has a lag in the begining .
#39
Gen 1 4 life
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85gsl: turbos can cost u either a bundle or not, how much of it can you do urself and what size turbo is what it comes to.
consider custom exhaust, boost prepping carb, bonnet, intercooler(maybe), along w/ the turbo, custom tubing, exhaust manifold, bov, etc... it adds up quick
consider custom exhaust, boost prepping carb, bonnet, intercooler(maybe), along w/ the turbo, custom tubing, exhaust manifold, bov, etc... it adds up quick
#40
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FD turbo lag - There is very little. It's sequential turbos and start making boost at a low rpm. Even if there was a lag, once boost hits, it's going to fly.
Turbo 1st gen. At least $1500 at the least. Most people end up in the $3-4K range.
Turbo 1st gen. At least $1500 at the least. Most people end up in the $3-4K range.
#41
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Originally Posted by riceburner1r2001
rx7 rage i like your avatar of initial d .. kewl man kewllll
#42
FB+FC=F-ME
FD....lag?!!
C'mon, readup people!!
A 1st gen turbo is a very fun car to drive.The light weight makes it really responsive,even with a mild bit of boost.The rearend can take quite a bit of power and you can fit some decent size tires under the wells without a widebody.
Forced induction of any kind should not be taken lightly though.It requires a lot more work than just buying a turbo and slapping it to the side of the engine.Its a system and it really redefines the nature of the engine,and the requiements to keep it going are more stringent than a N/A engine.Youll be taking an engine that can go and go and go for a LONG time,and making it into a potential handgrende that could pop at anytime,especially if you ham up the install.Dont take anything for granted,zip tie those vacuum lines,replace the cooling system,get that oilpan baffle,upgrade the clutch.
This isnt to say that a turbo rotary cant be reliable,but since youll be altering the amount of air the engine injests,the fuel requirments will have to be adressed.This means tuning,whether you choose a carb or EFI.If you dont tune,and tune well,a turbo engine can go south in a matter of seconds,especially a detonating rotary.Its easy to make HP with a turbo,making it last is the trick.......
Web777 is right on with the pricing,I ended up doing the basic running TII swap for about $1500,but once I counted in upgrades and power mods I was a little over $3000.
C'mon, readup people!!
A 1st gen turbo is a very fun car to drive.The light weight makes it really responsive,even with a mild bit of boost.The rearend can take quite a bit of power and you can fit some decent size tires under the wells without a widebody.
Forced induction of any kind should not be taken lightly though.It requires a lot more work than just buying a turbo and slapping it to the side of the engine.Its a system and it really redefines the nature of the engine,and the requiements to keep it going are more stringent than a N/A engine.Youll be taking an engine that can go and go and go for a LONG time,and making it into a potential handgrende that could pop at anytime,especially if you ham up the install.Dont take anything for granted,zip tie those vacuum lines,replace the cooling system,get that oilpan baffle,upgrade the clutch.
This isnt to say that a turbo rotary cant be reliable,but since youll be altering the amount of air the engine injests,the fuel requirments will have to be adressed.This means tuning,whether you choose a carb or EFI.If you dont tune,and tune well,a turbo engine can go south in a matter of seconds,especially a detonating rotary.Its easy to make HP with a turbo,making it last is the trick.......
Web777 is right on with the pricing,I ended up doing the basic running TII swap for about $1500,but once I counted in upgrades and power mods I was a little over $3000.
Last edited by steve84GS TII; 09-05-05 at 10:54 PM.
#43
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What about a nice bridgeport, with a 51dcoe RB carb,and S5 rotors? The extra traction from a widebody/wider rims would help off the line. I'm not saying he would win with that,just asking what his chances would be vs a stock FD.
#45
This is the only N/A kill I could find. http://videos.streetfire.net/Player....CEB0&kw=11&p=4
#46
Lives on the Forum
Boostfrenzy took me for a ride in his fd. It was only 1/2 a block down to the 7-11 and back, but on the way back he really got on it. I was unable to get an erection for like two weeks. I was pretty impressed with the power I was making in my fb up to that point, but his car was a whole different type of animal. After driving my buddie's STI, I thought it would be a long time before I was that impressed with another car. I stand corrected.
#47
The Rotorheaded Geek
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The first gen would only have a chance in a course with a good driver, not in a straight line. I know this only cuz I have taken STIs and WRXs and all in corners, to just watch them run away in the straight. Different story in my celica tho, that girl eats anything just about w/ over 400hp AWD.
#48
Originally Posted by 85rotarypower
Hmmm, I thought FD's were heavier, more like 2900-3000 lbs. Mabey I was wrong about them being overweight pigs . Even at 2800 lbs, the average FB is still 400 lbs lighter.
That being said, the FB will always have the weight advantage (I still wouldn't compare the FD to the FB in that area after daily driving one for some time now). Everything we do to decrease weight can pretty much be done to the FB to keep it one step ahead in that regard.