I just got done rebuilding my clutch hydraulics, so I'm in a bad mood....that goddamn stop ring is such a bitch to get in there! So I started on the brake master. There is a little stop screw thats supposed to restrict movement of the secondary piston, but the haynes is unclear on where exactly its supposed to be. They mention a guide pin, but I dunno what they are talking about. Should I put the screw in first and then push the secondary piston in, or should the pistion go in first? TIA

 

Why did you rebuild when a new one is not that expensive?

 

I don't remember the exact price, but I think with VB it's like $20-$30 cheaper - I'm trying to save money whenever possible on this project. I did figure it out though, I had to read the haynes section a couple times - they aren't very clear sometimes. My master cylinder (83) was a little different than the one they were working on in the book. My stop bolt/screw was on the bottom instead of the top, and the check valve is on the side instead of the bottom. Also, when they mentioned the guide pin, I think they are just referring to the unthreaded portion of the stop bolt. If you insert this part in with out turning at all, it helps guide the piston over the ports in the cylinder without damaging the cup, I assume. The haynes says to push the piston in all the way and then install the stop bolt, however this causes it to get caught where it's not supposed to, and the the piston doesn't move at all. You have to push it in all the way and the let up just a little, then screw the stop bolt in. If its right, you can hear a tap when you push the piston back and forth from it hitting the tip of the bolt. I thought I should share in case anyone else has this problem.

 

I have to agree. I decided last week I have rebuilt my cylinders for the last time. My two sevens have gotten to the point that I was rebuilding one of the cylinders about every three months. I bought a rebuild kit a couple weeks ago for one of my cars but after looking at my spare ones to rebuild, all of them were pitted to some degree. Now, I am one of the cheapest bastards you will ever meet and always considered a $10 rebuild kit a bargain, until now. I found that O'Reilly's offers a lifetime warranty on their cylinders while the other two major players don't. With that I spent $60 on a new one and any future failures will be just a simple swap for a new one. My only regret it that I did not do this sooner.

I did ponder if my new unit was really new. Since there was not a core exchange and the cylinders themselves apppear to be nothing but a cast piece of steel, refurbishing old units don't seem very practical so I would have to think it is truely new.

 

If you look into the hole where the screw goes in to and press in on the secondary piston in, you will see where the screw goes. The screw holds the piston in, so you need to press it in further than the lip so the screw can hold the piston into the assembly. That probably doesnt make sense but that is what you do. Hope I helped...