1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

exuast smoke question

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Old Dec 27, 2002 | 01:14 AM
  #26  
Project84's Avatar
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On some cars, WOT cancels the signal to the fuel injectors if you are holding the pedal to the flow before you crank the engine.

Zulu, it may be from the cold weather. It could be steam. Some of the by products of a combustion engine are hydrogen and oxygen, which make water. Check to see that it doesn't have a bluish tint to it. The way the rotary engine is build, oil doesn't always drain back to the pan. It burns off on start up, and you may see blue, or bluish white smoke when you first start the car. As long as it doesn't smoke like a chimney while your driving you should be ok.
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Old Dec 27, 2002 | 01:29 AM
  #27  
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I'd suspect it's just oil and gas, but, it's white with a slight hint of brown to it... the steam doesn't come after immediate startup, that's after about 30 seconds of idling, and lasts until the car is warmedup, happens to all vehicles and that's definately not something that would concern me :P
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Old Dec 27, 2002 | 10:24 PM
  #28  
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From: Charleston, SC
Probably normal

If you are not losing coolant, the white smoke is from condensation.

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Old Dec 27, 2002 | 10:44 PM
  #29  
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i had a compresson test done, it read out 105, and thats wit 176k original miles, SO anything is possible
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 11:54 AM
  #30  
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it WILL run
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well im going to pick it up sunday
wish me luck on my first rex

ill post pics too
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 12:49 PM
  #31  
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aheadau
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How about luck, skill, and good times!
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 05:17 PM
  #32  
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Originally posted by bubba211
i had a compresson test done, it read out 105, and thats wit 176k original miles, SO anything is possible
OK, so the questions are:

1-what kind of compression tester?

2-what's good compression range?

3-is that bad for 176k?

B
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 08:12 PM
  #33  
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aheadau
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2. I am happy with anything over 100 with my equipment. 100 - 120 depending on engine type. But they can run at a lot less , (>60 - 70), for a long time.

3. Not bad at all IMHO. However, you must get a reading from ALL rotor faces on each rotor (6 tot) and they need to be within ~10% (??) check that.......
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 09:53 PM
  #34  
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ahhh, my dad was driving with me in my car and i was just learning how to drive stick, anyway, when i downshifted from 3rd to snd the tires chirped and at the time i was talkin about compression, he said that was good compression, so i imagine when drvin try that out i dunno, still new to the rotary world (not the forum)
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 11:57 PM
  #35  
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Eek! Don't chirp them tires downshifting. Maybe the best way to learn clutching-shifting is with a farm tractor, as I did when I was 12. No synchros: I can't break the habit of feel-syncing , double-clutching , etc. The secret to operating an FB is to be smooottthhh.

Still, the question remains, what is the correct instrument to measure rotary compression? A factory tool, or some aftermarket instrument?

B
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Old Dec 29, 2002 | 04:33 PM
  #36  
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Originally posted by bliffle
Maybe the best way to learn clutching-shifting is with a farm tractor, as I did when I was 12. No synchros: I can't break the habit of feel-syncing , double-clutching , etc. The secret to operating an FB is to be smooottthhh.
B
You got that right! Yeehaw!
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