85 FB

So, I'm wanting to install my RB 2nd Gen NA Header very soon. *crosses fingers* I'm wondering how easy it is to access the exhaust manifold bolts with the auxillary ports still on the side of the intake. I ask this, because I cannot remove my aux ports. I tried at one time, but they're so frozen stuck in there, that I nearly rounded out the heads of the screws. So, I'll have to manage to take the exhaust manifold off without removing the aux ports. I know it'd be easier if I could, but since I can't...

How much of a pain is it to gain access to the bolts? And, what tools would I need? A swivel joint? Extension? Wrench?

Thanks for any help.

BlackWorksInc

I assume you are talking about the GSL-SE 13B? Because I am rebuilding a 6 port and the exhaust manifold should come right off from 5 or so nuts on studs threaded into the housings...

Starfox07

Its not bad. Just take the diaphrams off (two little nuts holding each one on) and you can get access to the top two bolts very easily with an extension. I know this because I accidently unbolted them trying to remove the manifold bolts! I believe they are 14mm so if you are loosening 12mm bolts, those are for the manifold. Kinda hard to see, have to feel around or get a small mirror.

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

With the stock heat shields removed you should be able to get to the bolts...

use a mirror to guide you, a extension and a flex socket and you should be fine...

Carefully you don't break the stud (which I've seen commonly broken on j-spec motors)

85 FB

Ack, sorry, yeah it is for my GSL-SE 13B. I can't believe I forgot to mention that. And, Starfox, I think you said to remove the diaphrams. You're talking about the aux ports, right? I did say in my above post that I cannot remove 'em, because their screws are frozen in and I tried to remove 'em once and they were rounding out.

BlackWorksInc

If you're bolts on those diaphragms are rounding out, try and use either a pair of vise grips or an extractor tool.

I would think it would be better to just remove them and replace the screws with new ones than let the ones in there continue to corrode.

85 FB

Well, the engine is old, and has 210,000 miles on it, so Im' not on that big of a deal on it. Altho, I don't have the money for a new S5 yet. But, I'll go by Jimmy's advice. I really wanna get this header on.

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

Once the heat shields are gone the only bolt that can't be reached easily with socket and extension is the rear top one. Socket hits the aux actuator. If you use a knuckle attachment on your socket it is pretty easy also. I just did this and the only problem was 2 studs coming out and messing up the threads in the housings. I cleaned them out with a tap and replaced them with studs from one of my parts engines.

Ron

Starfox07

If your aux actuators are, themselves, seized unto their studs, I can't even imagine the deplorable condition of the sleeves!

BlackWorksInc

I was wondering if anyone else had that issue also...

One of my manifold bolts had stuck onto the rusted stud so badly that it actually turned the stud! But instead of it coming out easy like a normal bolt it seemed to seize and then strip out... it was really odd, like only half the threads suddenly seized and it tore out.

But good to hear that it should be easy to tap...

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

as a note, someone a few posts ago mentioned 5 or 6 nuts..there are only 4. as mentioned, a socket with a swivel and an extension will suffice rather easialy. you must remove the heat shield for access to the top nuts. i can post a pic if interested..

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

ok, i went out and looked at the angle the nut as opposed to the actuator. no need for a swivel. just a straight 6" extention with a deepwell 14mm socket. fits under the actuator with no clearance issues. removal of the intake manifold is a different story..

85 FB

Actually, my sleeves and actuators are cleaned up. When, I took the manifold off, I had to gain access to them after taking the entire manifold off. So, they're nicely cleaned up and oiled.

As far as the studs and nuts, I'm hoping they don't strip. I'll be sure to soak 'em up with PB Blaster altho I wasn't able to do that today and tomorrow is when I'm looking to work on the manifold, or at least try to, cause of the weather we're going to have, supposedly, this weekend.

85 FB

Oh wow, thanks for the pic, mazdaverx! Well, I bought a swivel joint from Sears anyways, just in case. If I don't need it, I'll return it. Here's hoping I'll have luck tomorrow.

85 FB

EDIT (missed the 30 minute time window, sorry): And, looking at the picture, I thought I had screws on my actuators. Hmm, y'know what, I must've been looking at the ones where the linkage rods go into the block. Well, isn't that something? *L* Oh well, I'm glad to see that I can access the bolts without a swivel, here's hoping it all go well. Thanks again for the pic!

Starfox07

I really don't think you need to remove the heat shield for access to the two nuts. I know I removed them by accident without taking the heat shield off.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

ive done it, long 1/4 drive extension

85 FB

Wicked, thanks for the help, guys! Here's hoping it'll go well tomorrow.