Engine Wobble at Idle...mounts???
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Engine Wobble at Idle...mounts???
When I'm moving the motor is nice and smooth...but at idle it sure wobbles around a lot. Should I try the engine mounts first? How hard are they to change?
GSL-SE ported 13B.
GSL-SE ported 13B.
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quoting longduck from https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=281072
Originally Posted by LongDuck
Engine mounts (front) are easily replaced without hoisting the engine out or otherwise requiring removal of any ancillary components. The front 2 mounts are attached to the Engine Cross Brace and to the front member at the sides. These two mounts are different on left and right for 13b SE motors - may or may not be the same for other motors.
Removal of mounts requires that you place a hydraulic jack under the front of the engine BRACE (not the oilpan - as it will dent easily), using a block of wood to separate the load. Apply enough jack pressure to take the weight off the mounts. Loosen the single 14mm nuts on the top of the mounts that attach to the brace, then remove the 2 14mm nuts that attach to the front member. Carefully jack the motor up far enough that both engine mounts can be pulled free from the brace and crossmember. Insert new mounts, lower jack slightly, reinstall 14mm nuts all around, and lower the jack completely.
The engine mounts are 2 sections of bent steel, one in a 'dished' shape for the top, and a steel washer at the bottom, together sandwiching a rubber insert that isolates vibration. These will sag over time, and can occasionally break through the rubber, causing excessive engine/transmission torquing under load. It's not uncommon to have everything 'look' okay from the outside until you get the brace apart and find a broken rubber mount.
The other engine mount is at the back of the transmission, forming a 3-point suspension for the engine and drivetrain. This is similar in construction, and easily changed during a clutch job, or other transmission work.
On a higher mileage engine, I would strongly recommend AGAINST adding a Mazda Factory Race Oil Pressure Regulator set for 90psi - this will likely cause your engine to smoke excessively and burn oil due to weakened oil control seals and side seals leaking high oil pressure into your combustion chambers. HTH,
Removal of mounts requires that you place a hydraulic jack under the front of the engine BRACE (not the oilpan - as it will dent easily), using a block of wood to separate the load. Apply enough jack pressure to take the weight off the mounts. Loosen the single 14mm nuts on the top of the mounts that attach to the brace, then remove the 2 14mm nuts that attach to the front member. Carefully jack the motor up far enough that both engine mounts can be pulled free from the brace and crossmember. Insert new mounts, lower jack slightly, reinstall 14mm nuts all around, and lower the jack completely.
The engine mounts are 2 sections of bent steel, one in a 'dished' shape for the top, and a steel washer at the bottom, together sandwiching a rubber insert that isolates vibration. These will sag over time, and can occasionally break through the rubber, causing excessive engine/transmission torquing under load. It's not uncommon to have everything 'look' okay from the outside until you get the brace apart and find a broken rubber mount.
The other engine mount is at the back of the transmission, forming a 3-point suspension for the engine and drivetrain. This is similar in construction, and easily changed during a clutch job, or other transmission work.
On a higher mileage engine, I would strongly recommend AGAINST adding a Mazda Factory Race Oil Pressure Regulator set for 90psi - this will likely cause your engine to smoke excessively and burn oil due to weakened oil control seals and side seals leaking high oil pressure into your combustion chambers. HTH,
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