1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

engine swap now won't start

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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 09:08 PM
  #26  
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Hmmm... Doubtful that the vacuum switch could be the culprit; it only engages (closes) during deceleration from above 3kRPM.

If the vacuum connection point for it is capped off, I don't see how it could be causing you any power loss.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 10:08 AM
  #27  
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Damn, thought I had a eureka moment there. So I should just leave it capped off then? Thanks DivinDriver
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #28  
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I'm wondering if you don't have a problem with the vacuum secondaries causing your lack of power. They're notoriously hard to verify if they are working, since just opening the throttle without load on the engine does not open them.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 01:58 PM
  #29  
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hoo-boy, that's over my head at this point. I'll dig into this and see if I can figure out what you're talking about. I was also wondering if it could be the screen filters under the banjo bolts going into the carb float bowls. I read on here to check that out, so that's on the list. The fuel pump (2 weeks old before the old engine cratered) seems to be louder than it was as well. You can hear it in the car with the engine idling. If you hold the fuel hoses going in to the carb they are really pulsing. I'm wondering if there is a blockage somewhere in the new carb that is making it push against a pressure build-up or something. Anyways, just pontificating at this point. lots to think about. Thanks again.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 10:32 AM
  #30  
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Good Morning. So, the problem was twofold. #1, the linkage to the secondaries was seized solid so they weren't operating at all. Some carb cleaner and gentle taps with a wrench freed this up. It is lubed and works like it should now. The Rex has re-captured her youth. It pulls strongly all the way up now. Secondly, the timing was way off. We purchased a timing light and solved this problem in about 10 minutes.

I can't beleiee how much time I spent on this issue. Without the suggestions, I wouldn't have had a clue where to start. I did so much searching and reading that I'm surprised I got any actual work done! I found a post on here from a few years back about the linkage, where it was located and (more importantly) what the secondaries do. I also spent a lot of time on Sterling's site. I understand pretty fully how this nikki carb works now. And yes, the teeter totter is hooked up right

Thanks again for everything especially DivinDriver who took the time to hold my hand so to speak offering up suggestions. These suggestions helped point my way as I searched. This thing runs beautifully now. We would have spent so much money while a shop tried to figure these things out. It has been frustrating, but there have been many high fives and plenty of satisfaction and learning at the same time.

Thanks again guys.

Neil & Liam
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 11:04 AM
  #31  
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Congrats! You've earned your Nikki wings, solving this one.

Glad I could help.
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