Engine build tests
#1
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Engine build tests
What tests can be performed on a freshly rebuilt rotary engine to see if you got it right BEFORE installing it in the car? I've seen pressure testing of the water jacket at about 15 pounds. Is there a way to do a compression test of sorts?
Herb
Herb
#2
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you do a compression test same as if it was in the car trailing plugs in of course but you will need to attach the tranny to hook up the starter which isn't a big deal unless the trans is still in the car .the front section from an auto trans will do the job for you just bolt it on hook the starter on and away you go, a squirt of oil in each rotor with throttle wide open . the engine should turn a minimum of 250 RPM to get a fair reading . Oil pressure can also be checked with a mechanical gauge hooked into where the sending unit goes just under the oil filter.
#3
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Doing a hand rotation test on the assembled keg with all plugs out (still on the stand) is helpful to ensure that you have rotors properly indexed and no seals pinched/misaligned. You should have smooth even rotational resistance.
Should look & sound much like this:
Also check for liberal free play before assembling the front stack, again, just to make sure nothing's binding.
Should look & sound much like this:
Also check for liberal free play before assembling the front stack, again, just to make sure nothing's binding.
#4
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yes before i put any engine in, or take a motor out, i'll spin it over a bunch (i'm a spaz, its maybe 100? way more than needed!). a 2 rotor should fire every 180 degrees, or barring that it should be even and regular.