End all for no start threads. (WARNING!!! BOOK INSIDE!!!)
02-27-10, 04:49 AM
#52
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im looking for anyone that can help me plug up all of the vacuum hoses up right... i just bought a 84 and all of the vacuum hoses are either hooked up wrong or they're not even hooked up. another thing... when i pour some gas into the carburetor, theres a little tube towards the bottom of it that the gas just pours out of... fuel return line?? where does that plug up to?? this is the first time ive ever even set eyes on a rotary's engine bay, not to mention a carburetor. i really need help....
09-13-10, 10:18 PM
#54
i have a 91 NA FC that just decided to turn off on me yesterday. the day before that, changed to a single pulley setup and the car was running great! so a day later, i go to pick up a friend from work leaving my house it felt like the car misfired. i pulled over and turned off my car but turned it back on right after and went on my way. after picking him up, and dropping him off at his house, i was in first gear around 4-5k rpm and it felt like it misfired again but this time the engine shut off.
so now my car cranks, but doesn't turn on. first thing i did was check all the fuses, they were all fine. then i decided to remove the spark plugs to see if they were wet from flooding, but they weren't. also checked for compression, and all the rotations of the rotor were fine. then i plugged the cable to the spark plug and placed it by a bolt and cranked the engine for spark, and got no spark. so now i'm stuck, i removed the distributor cap off but nothing seems to be wrong with it, took a picture for you guys to see. i don't think its timing because the car was running fine the day before, but then again i don't have much or any experience with RE engines. oh i also want to add that i did try push starting my car and it didnt work. battery does have power though, AGAIN CAR DOES CRANK AND HAS QUARTER TANK OF GAS.
please help me, this is my only transportation to school and to visit my son:
so now my car cranks, but doesn't turn on. first thing i did was check all the fuses, they were all fine. then i decided to remove the spark plugs to see if they were wet from flooding, but they weren't. also checked for compression, and all the rotations of the rotor were fine. then i plugged the cable to the spark plug and placed it by a bolt and cranked the engine for spark, and got no spark. so now i'm stuck, i removed the distributor cap off but nothing seems to be wrong with it, took a picture for you guys to see. i don't think its timing because the car was running fine the day before, but then again i don't have much or any experience with RE engines. oh i also want to add that i did try push starting my car and it didnt work. battery does have power though, AGAIN CAR DOES CRANK AND HAS QUARTER TANK OF GAS.
please help me, this is my only transportation to school and to visit my son:
Last edited by canyontougeFC3S; 09-13-10 at 10:28 PM.
07-30-12, 12:33 AM
#56
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will not crank
I just finished reading the "end all for no start threads"
I have a stock 1980 RX7 LS.
I've done no work to the car recently. I believe a would-be thief left the door open all night one night before this all began, but the dome light wasn't working to begin with, so I don't think there was any current draw.
The battery tests 12.85 volts, even after the open door incident, the cables and posts have been cleaned. Cable connections at the starter are solid, and the cables show virtually no resistance.
If I remove the ignition fuse under the dash, and turn the key to run, the voltage gauge on the dash reads just under 13 volts. After turning the key to start, it's as if all voltage is immediately lost - the starter does not even click. The volt meter still shows 12.85 volts at the battery cables. If I put the fuse back in, try to start (absolutely nothing), then again remove the the whole thing repeats itself with voltage on the dash gauge.
Should I start with a battery load test, even the the voltage always remained good? Can fusible links be the problem? I have a shop manual, but still don't know what they look like or exactly where they are located.
Thank you for any advice. Any links to other posts that may help would be welcome. I've spent close to 3 hours using "search"
I have a stock 1980 RX7 LS.
I've done no work to the car recently. I believe a would-be thief left the door open all night one night before this all began, but the dome light wasn't working to begin with, so I don't think there was any current draw.
The battery tests 12.85 volts, even after the open door incident, the cables and posts have been cleaned. Cable connections at the starter are solid, and the cables show virtually no resistance.
If I remove the ignition fuse under the dash, and turn the key to run, the voltage gauge on the dash reads just under 13 volts. After turning the key to start, it's as if all voltage is immediately lost - the starter does not even click. The volt meter still shows 12.85 volts at the battery cables. If I put the fuse back in, try to start (absolutely nothing), then again remove the the whole thing repeats itself with voltage on the dash gauge.
Should I start with a battery load test, even the the voltage always remained good? Can fusible links be the problem? I have a shop manual, but still don't know what they look like or exactly where they are located.
Thank you for any advice. Any links to other posts that may help would be welcome. I've spent close to 3 hours using "search"
07-30-12, 02:48 PM
#57
Yes, chances are your battery isn't able to muster up the power to start it. Take the battery to a parts shop and get them to test it for you.
If you have a battery charger, set it on the low setting and leave it hooked up on the bench 24hrs or more, then try again.
You could also try having someone jump-start you with booster cables, or doing a push-start (though if the battery is low enough to act like that, a push-start might not work).
Jon
Edit: Another thing that just occurred to me : if you have a battery terminal cleaning brush, clean your battery terminals and clamps very well then plug it back in. I've had a friend's car do this just because so much corrosion had built up on the terminals that not enough juice was getting through.
If you have a battery charger, set it on the low setting and leave it hooked up on the bench 24hrs or more, then try again.
You could also try having someone jump-start you with booster cables, or doing a push-start (though if the battery is low enough to act like that, a push-start might not work).
Jon
Edit: Another thing that just occurred to me : if you have a battery terminal cleaning brush, clean your battery terminals and clamps very well then plug it back in. I've had a friend's car do this just because so much corrosion had built up on the terminals that not enough juice was getting through.
Last edited by vipernicus42; 07-30-12 at 02:51 PM.
07-31-12, 01:22 AM
#58
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Edit: Another thing that just occurred to me : if you have a battery terminal cleaning brush, clean your battery terminals and clamps very well then plug it back in. I've had a friend's car do this just because so much corrosion had built up on the terminals that not enough juice was getting through.
07-31-12, 11:30 AM
#59
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will not crank
Yeah. Clean them. That is just what happens if you have a crappy connection at the battery. Sometimes if you are lucky, simply resetting the battery cable will do the trick, but cleaning will keep it from happening again. And make sure you tighten the bolt down all the way when you put the cable back on.
Thanks for the reply. Neither the starter or battery gave any warning signs of failure.
I'd already cleaned the battery posts and cable ends, and made sure all was tight. I've also charged the battery over night and tried to jump start with the wife's car. I can't push start, as I forgot to mention it's an automatic
.I guess the next step is to load test the battery sometime when the wife's car is availble and the parts store is open, not easy around here. A least I have a motorcycle to get around on
.
07-31-12, 12:55 PM
#60
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Here are the fusible links. There are three of them. The heaviest grade one is the one you want to look at IIRC, and mark which are which, or take them off one at a time! However, while this is a good thing to check because it is easy, it is unlikely you blew this unless you were mucking with the electrical systems and I don't think the dash would work if this was fried, but I am new to this myself, so I figured I could at least point them out to you.
Holding one in my hand and you can see the others beneath. Test it with an ohmmeter stuffed in both ends of the part I have in my hand. If there is a connection it's good. They may melt internally without apearing to be damaged out of the sleeve, so don't just do a visual.
08-01-12, 04:38 PM
#61
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will not crank
[QUOTE<snip>Here are the fusible links. There are three of them<end snip>QUOTE]
Thanks for the tips. I also REALLY appreciate the detailed photos!
Thanks for the tips. I also REALLY appreciate the detailed photos!
08-05-12, 12:37 AM
#62
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will not crank
It seems I just have a bad battery. It would not jump because my jumper cables were bad.
Since you supplied the nice photo, can you ID the two marked parts just for my knowledge? I'm guessing #2 is a relay, but for what? Thanks, Tony
Since you supplied the nice photo, can you ID the two marked parts just for my knowledge? I'm guessing #2 is a relay, but for what? Thanks, Tony
09-13-12, 06:42 PM
#63
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I have tried everything suggested in this post and I still can't get my 84 gs 12a with a Nikki to start.
I got this car off of my grandfather who left it in his garage without starting it for the better part of 8 years.
When I got it I drained and refilled all of the fluids, replaced the plugs, replace the battery, cleaned up the distributor, replaced the fuel pump and filter because I had no fuel getting to the carb.
After replacing the fuel pump I had fuel getting to the carb but the car still wouldn't start. So I took the carburetor off and had it rebuilt by a Mazda mechanic. I replaced the intake manifold gasket and reinstalled the carburetor an I can still not get it to start. Not even with gas poured directly into the carb and ether sprayed in while I crank it.
I checked compression per instructions above and all sounds perfect, I have gas getting to the carb and I have good spark on all four plugs
I really want to get this car running and ive ran out of ideas on what to try. If anyone could help me out I would really appreciate it
I got this car off of my grandfather who left it in his garage without starting it for the better part of 8 years.
When I got it I drained and refilled all of the fluids, replaced the plugs, replace the battery, cleaned up the distributor, replaced the fuel pump and filter because I had no fuel getting to the carb.
After replacing the fuel pump I had fuel getting to the carb but the car still wouldn't start. So I took the carburetor off and had it rebuilt by a Mazda mechanic. I replaced the intake manifold gasket and reinstalled the carburetor an I can still not get it to start. Not even with gas poured directly into the carb and ether sprayed in while I crank it.
I checked compression per instructions above and all sounds perfect, I have gas getting to the carb and I have good spark on all four plugs
I really want to get this car running and ive ran out of ideas on what to try. If anyone could help me out I would really appreciate it
09-13-12, 09:08 PM
#64
Flooded maybe? If you've got fuel, compression, and spark, you should get *something* when you try to start it.
I'd say take the plugs out, give it a 5 sec crank to clear the excess gas, dry off the plugs with shop towels then hit them with a lighter to make sure all the fuel is gone, put them back in, pump the gas once and try to crank it.
It might also be not cranking fast enough. If compression is on the low side (which most original engines are at this point) you need a good crank speed to get it going. Making a new set of battery cables is pretty straightforward and won't cost more than $20 in materials. That can make a HUGE difference in both cranking speed and the strength of spark you get.
If you were closer (or at least in the same country/province) I'd come over with my TwistedRotors Rotary Compression Tester. That'd give us accurate compression numbers for each face of the rotors, and as a bonus tell us what your crank speed is. Maybe make a separate post to see if anyone in your area has a rotary compression tester. Both the Mazda one and the Twisted Rotors one would do the same thing.
Good Luck,
Jon
I'd say take the plugs out, give it a 5 sec crank to clear the excess gas, dry off the plugs with shop towels then hit them with a lighter to make sure all the fuel is gone, put them back in, pump the gas once and try to crank it.
It might also be not cranking fast enough. If compression is on the low side (which most original engines are at this point) you need a good crank speed to get it going. Making a new set of battery cables is pretty straightforward and won't cost more than $20 in materials. That can make a HUGE difference in both cranking speed and the strength of spark you get.
If you were closer (or at least in the same country/province) I'd come over with my TwistedRotors Rotary Compression Tester. That'd give us accurate compression numbers for each face of the rotors, and as a bonus tell us what your crank speed is. Maybe make a separate post to see if anyone in your area has a rotary compression tester. Both the Mazda one and the Twisted Rotors one would do the same thing.
Good Luck,
Jon
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